faded window trim
06-12-2009, 07:20 AM
#2
Racer
you can paint them with flat black trim paint.....or an overlay kit from Nicole... http://marketplaceadvisor.channeladv...339&i=26457826
06-12-2009, 08:02 AM
#3
Pro
This has been discussed before Magne. I think you can refinish them (they can be painted but a specialist can probably repeat the surface treatment process).
Jageng has overlays for at least the rear quarter windows and front screen, maybe they have for all.
http://www.jageng.com/garage9/index.php?cPath=50_58
Jageng has overlays for at least the rear quarter windows and front screen, maybe they have for all.
http://www.jageng.com/garage9/index.php?cPath=50_58
06-12-2009, 02:43 PM
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
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There's SEM trim paint available, and it works well. If you are doing all the trium on the car, satin black (not flat black) RustOleum in spray cans does well. It's a darker black than the SEM and the original, especially if the original has faded some. If you do all the trim on the car it will look fine.
I cleaned the trim with a wax/adhesive remover. Scuffed it slightly with a scotch-brite pad, then another pass with the wax/adhesive remover after masking aound the trim.
I did the direct masking with a heavy-duty clear box-sealing tape, the stuff on the dispenser roll. Press carefully over the trim to be painted, then use a sharp razor blade knife to cut just the tape, where the plastic or metal trim joins the rubber window seal. That leaves a very hard straight edge, easier to do compared with paper maskig tape that pulls and tears easily as you trim. Press the cut edge against the stuff you want to protect, peel the tape off the part you want to paint.
Mask completely around the area. I generally cover the whole rest of the car with plastic painters film.
Again, the last wipe with wax and adhesive remover. Let it dry, tack cloth if needed.
Apply a couple thin fogged-over coats of your choice of paints. Let it dry partially, maybe 15mins, and pull your plastic box tape masking carefully away from the edges. Use the tip of your razor knife to carefully lift from the outside edges, and pull the pieces perpendicular to the tape run and close to the surface you are masking. Like around the bottom of the window, you'll lift one end, then pull that end across and then down towards the ground so the sharp masked edge effectively pulls off and immediately rolls away from the painted part. This will make the edges pull away clean without any lifting of the clean paint edge on your target parts. Leave the rest of the masking in place overnight so there's no risk of damage from bigger pieces dragged across your new paint finish before it dries completely.
This technique works especially well with things like the doorlock surrounds. For those, you'll leave the center hole of a donut in place to protect the lock cylinder end, and remove the paint over the bezel but leave the tape over the black rubber surrounding the bezel. Cut carefully on the edge of the bezel, leaving just enough plastic tape so you can push it under the edge of the bexel to protect the rubber yet expose the outside edge of the bezel. This makes for a very clean finish, especially if you just fog on a couple very thin coats of paint. Thick coats mean you are more likely to see any edges, and also increase the risk of chipping later. Two thin fogged coats, that's all you really want.
I cleaned the trim with a wax/adhesive remover. Scuffed it slightly with a scotch-brite pad, then another pass with the wax/adhesive remover after masking aound the trim.
I did the direct masking with a heavy-duty clear box-sealing tape, the stuff on the dispenser roll. Press carefully over the trim to be painted, then use a sharp razor blade knife to cut just the tape, where the plastic or metal trim joins the rubber window seal. That leaves a very hard straight edge, easier to do compared with paper maskig tape that pulls and tears easily as you trim. Press the cut edge against the stuff you want to protect, peel the tape off the part you want to paint.
Mask completely around the area. I generally cover the whole rest of the car with plastic painters film.
Again, the last wipe with wax and adhesive remover. Let it dry, tack cloth if needed.
Apply a couple thin fogged-over coats of your choice of paints. Let it dry partially, maybe 15mins, and pull your plastic box tape masking carefully away from the edges. Use the tip of your razor knife to carefully lift from the outside edges, and pull the pieces perpendicular to the tape run and close to the surface you are masking. Like around the bottom of the window, you'll lift one end, then pull that end across and then down towards the ground so the sharp masked edge effectively pulls off and immediately rolls away from the painted part. This will make the edges pull away clean without any lifting of the clean paint edge on your target parts. Leave the rest of the masking in place overnight so there's no risk of damage from bigger pieces dragged across your new paint finish before it dries completely.
This technique works especially well with things like the doorlock surrounds. For those, you'll leave the center hole of a donut in place to protect the lock cylinder end, and remove the paint over the bezel but leave the tape over the black rubber surrounding the bezel. Cut carefully on the edge of the bezel, leaving just enough plastic tape so you can push it under the edge of the bexel to protect the rubber yet expose the outside edge of the bezel. This makes for a very clean finish, especially if you just fog on a couple very thin coats of paint. Thick coats mean you are more likely to see any edges, and also increase the risk of chipping later. Two thin fogged coats, that's all you really want.
06-12-2009, 05:06 PM
#5
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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dr bob, How well does the Rustoleum hold up to direct sunlight and lots of washings? I have used it in the past for things like windshield wiper arms and such with less than stellar long term results.
Really like the masking technique you describe.... basically use packing tape, cover everything, then trim off those areas you want to paint as opposed to trying to mask complex corners and shapes along the edges. Very smart.
Really like the masking technique you describe.... basically use packing tape, cover everything, then trim off those areas you want to paint as opposed to trying to mask complex corners and shapes along the edges. Very smart.
06-12-2009, 08:59 PM
#6
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Dan--
The RustOlem has lasted great for a couple years now. I confess that the car is a princess; gets used some but generally lives a charmed life. Lives in the garage, usually covered, and is seldom out in the sun for any extended period. I appreciate your concerns about long life. I used to use it on my old Explorer DD on wiper arms, and it would last 2-3 years before it needed a little help again. But that was about the same durability I got from the factory powder paint finish, so it didn't really bother me doing an annual re-spray. If you have concerns, try the Wurth or SEM stuff. I don't think they are any more durable, just thing their almost-black is a better match for what came on the car originally. On a light-colored car I'd be more concerned than I am against my black car.
The RustOlem has lasted great for a couple years now. I confess that the car is a princess; gets used some but generally lives a charmed life. Lives in the garage, usually covered, and is seldom out in the sun for any extended period. I appreciate your concerns about long life. I used to use it on my old Explorer DD on wiper arms, and it would last 2-3 years before it needed a little help again. But that was about the same durability I got from the factory powder paint finish, so it didn't really bother me doing an annual re-spray. If you have concerns, try the Wurth or SEM stuff. I don't think they are any more durable, just thing their almost-black is a better match for what came on the car originally. On a light-colored car I'd be more concerned than I am against my black car.
06-13-2009, 12:43 AM
#7
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Or... you can take off all the trim/wipers/lock bezels and have them powder coated and forget about it -forever!
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06-13-2009, 01:32 AM
#10
Chronic Tool Dropper
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It's a crapshoot on pulling the trim and painting it off the car. The windshield molding comes off easily and is a great candidate for off-the-car treatment. The trim on the side and the rear quarter windows is tough to keep intact, and so better to do on the car IMHO. The door lock bezel was a snap to do in place, and is where the packing tape inspiration came from for sharp-edged masking.
06-13-2009, 03:00 AM
#12
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The advantage of the trim restoration kit is that it will never chip, and you don't have to worry about removing the existing trim to repaint or replace it.
The material used is super thin and backed by a strong adhesive. It conforms to the original trim and won't show the edges. Best of all, you can do this in about 20 minutes per window.
We have these kits for the windshield trim, or for both rear quarter windows' trim. I've sold lots of them over the years.
The material used is super thin and backed by a strong adhesive. It conforms to the original trim and won't show the edges. Best of all, you can do this in about 20 minutes per window.
We have these kits for the windshield trim, or for both rear quarter windows' trim. I've sold lots of them over the years.
06-13-2009, 08:59 AM
#13
I painted mine on the car with the flat trim paint. Masked everything like crazy, sanded and smoothed all of the rough and corroded spots, primed and painted. Looks really good, lots of work. Take your time with the prep. I found using emery boards for the sanding worked well to isolate the sanding to the spots you want to do.
06-13-2009, 11:37 AM
#14
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If you have the forethought to order the kits from Nicole, the fit and finish are excellent. Particularly, the finish is extremely consistent. If you have any doubts about your ability to mask and paint perfectly, the vinyl overlays are certainly the way to go.
