how to fix hole in stainless steel skin'ed muffler.
#1
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I was at the track, hitting over the sound limits an noticed that I had 2 large 1-2" diameter holes in my muffler from a bad install technique that used hangers that welded to the sides, and that skin couldnt handle the weight of the muffler and tore off. i fixed that and relieved the stress with another style of hanging system, but how can i fix the holes? i used rivets and plates of aluminum, and that worked for the race, but they came a little lose and vibrate and buzz like its a blown muffler. its amazing on a free flow muffler, still how much pressure is in the can.
you can feel exhaust escaping, like a header leak. ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
anyway, im thinking JBweld and then the rivets or is there a better way?
mk
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anyway, im thinking JBweld and then the rivets or is there a better way?
mk
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Years ago I used JB weld to patch some motorcycle mufflers with success, but the best and correct way would be to weld patches on it. If you are going to JB it wait till the system has cooled down before applying the JB, or it will drip/run all over (un-cured JB thins dramatically with increased temp.) I would also suggest using steel so that the thermal expansion rate is similar or your JB patches may not hold well. As stated by the other the best solution is to weld it.
#6
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Cut 2 round patches somewhat larger than the holes, and scratch TIG the patches over the tears. Who's gonna see them but you? Cheap repair, and should last for the life of the muffler.
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thanks! the welder that did try and fix the tears, just burned larger holes in the stainless, but its probably not the materials fault, but the welder or type of weld. Ill try and see if I can get a TIG weld there , or maybe try the JB weld for awhile.
Randy, dont mufflers cost money???
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#10
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if you're blowing holes, and you cant turn down the welder, get some copper or bronze blocks and clamp them right next to the area to be welded. They will draw the heat off of the stainless and prevent you from blasting through the tubing.
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True enough, but not everyone has a good TIG machine lying around. Use what you got. It can be made to work. Lord knows I would love to get my hands on a nice TIG, but I'm not about to drop 5k+ for a decent one that won't explode when you plug it in (read: not a cheap piece of chinese ****)
#13
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True-Dat!
good advice, thanks
good advice, thanks
#14
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True enough, but not everyone has a good TIG machine lying around. Use what you got. It can be made to work. Lord knows I would love to get my hands on a nice TIG, but I'm not about to drop 5k+ for a decent one that won't explode when you plug it in (read: not a cheap piece of chinese ****)
water cooled miller, just came back from a factory upgrade, less than 50 hours on it.
It has been upgraded to do stitching on stainless.
Syncrowave 250 DX TIGRunner
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...rowave_250_dx/