A Couple of Questions Regarding Megasquirt, Crank Trigger and MAF vs. MAP
06-11-2010 | 06:29 PM
#31
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but with a street car there are fuel variables etc that you can't control so there is a risk without knock control.
06-11-2010 | 06:31 PM
#32
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: So Cal
If you are keeping the EZK (ignition part of stock system) then you will retain the knock control (S4 has two knock sensors and it's a really good system). The MS can do knock control (if you switch to EDIS or other) but I haven't played with that yet. There's the old adage.. "You don't need knock control if you can tune the car properly" but with a street car there are fuel variables etc that you can't control so there is a risk without knock control.
but with a street car there are fuel variables etc that you can't control so there is a risk without knock control.
06-11-2010 | 07:04 PM
#33
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: San Diego / Las Vegas
ya, know is set up in the ignition which you are keeping stock.
Normally to an 'enthusiest' owner of a car a knock sensor isn't needed because the car should be tuned properly and using the proper gas, also a bit more effective for the boosted guys. Its the general public they are worried about with knock sensors.
This could also be a down side as 20 year old knock sensors can fail (there are 8 in the S4 motor) and retard your timing all the time. This can possibly be checked if you can borrow someones Hammer to check if any sensors are throwing codes? although not sure how you would do that if the motor is out and then it will be rewired. I guess if we see some weird performance woos then we can further test.
Normally to an 'enthusiest' owner of a car a knock sensor isn't needed because the car should be tuned properly and using the proper gas, also a bit more effective for the boosted guys. Its the general public they are worried about with knock sensors.
This could also be a down side as 20 year old knock sensors can fail (there are 8 in the S4 motor) and retard your timing all the time. This can possibly be checked if you can borrow someones Hammer to check if any sensors are throwing codes? although not sure how you would do that if the motor is out and then it will be rewired. I guess if we see some weird performance woos then we can further test.
06-11-2010 | 07:11 PM
#34
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While the motor is out of the car, do the hall sensor ..it's likely fragged anyway and it's way easier when its out...to replace the knock sensor, you'll have to pull the intake ( I think the rear one can be done with the intake still on) but the front one can't be done without pulling the intake...
06-11-2010 | 08:19 PM
#35
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,004
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From: So Cal
ya, know is set up in the ignition which you are keeping stock.
Normally to an 'enthusiest' owner of a car a knock sensor isn't needed because the car should be tuned properly and using the proper gas, also a bit more effective for the boosted guys. Its the general public they are worried about with knock sensors.
This could also be a down side as 20 year old knock sensors can fail (there are 8 in the S4 motor) and retard your timing all the time. This can possibly be checked if you can borrow someones Hammer to check if any sensors are throwing codes? although not sure how you would do that if the motor is out and then it will be rewired. I guess if we see some weird performance woos then we can further test.
Normally to an 'enthusiest' owner of a car a knock sensor isn't needed because the car should be tuned properly and using the proper gas, also a bit more effective for the boosted guys. Its the general public they are worried about with knock sensors.
This could also be a down side as 20 year old knock sensors can fail (there are 8 in the S4 motor) and retard your timing all the time. This can possibly be checked if you can borrow someones Hammer to check if any sensors are throwing codes? although not sure how you would do that if the motor is out and then it will be rewired. I guess if we see some weird performance woos then we can further test.
While the motor is out of the car, do the hall sensor ..it's likely fragged anyway and it's way easier when its out...to replace the knock sensor, you'll have to pull the intake ( I think the rear one can be done with the intake still on) but the front one can't be done without pulling the intake...
08-21-2010 | 03:18 PM
#37
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Largo, Florida 33774
Using map on mine. Simple GM style AIT mounted right in the airbox. Coolant temp taken right off the temp II I believe. Also able to control the existing idle stabilizer directly with the MS. BTW..with Map you can get rid of the Maf and just plumb in a big ole open pipe .
Your TPS will require replacement too...as the MS needs a potentiometric style..not a three position one that comes stock.
Long term the MAP will also allow you to add different intake manifolds easily.. (read ITB's)...
P.S. Get Colin to make you the 36-1 trigger wheel.. mounts on the front easily That way you can use any double disk flywheel in the back
. Your TPS will require replacement too...as the MS needs a potentiometric style..not a three position one that comes stock.
Long term the MAP will also allow you to add different intake manifolds easily.. (read ITB's
)...P.S. Get Colin to make you the 36-1 trigger wheel.. mounts on the front easily
That way you can use any double disk flywheel in the back 