pre 4-valve cars
05-31-2010, 11:31 PM
#16
Nordschleife Master
Let me hit you up here on a few of your ????....
LH is the Bosch fuel injection control system on the '84 - '86 Euro S cars. The '80 - '83 Euro S cars had Bosch K-jet (also called CIS injection) and the LH cars make more HP. In fact it has been reported in various places and speculated that the '84 - '86 EURO cars make more HP than anything except the 5.4L GTS's!
The rear taillight is the rear FOG light that is required on Euro cars. Normally the vertical row of three buttons on the left side of the pod, the bottom one turns on that rear light. You would have to have the main headlight switch in the first (ie. FOG LIGHT) position for that to work. It might also work if the lights are fully turned on too, but I am not sure about that. I think it only works in position 1 of the main headlight switch.
EURO and ROW are the same thing for the most part and normally use interchangeably. ROW stands for Rest Of World...that is other than the USA and Canada (aka N. America).
Ray, I hope that helps a bit for you! Your car looks really good.
One of the responses was right on regarding the way many of the Registered Importers (RI's) did their work...Take a set of pics of one car you actually did the work on and them submit those for other cars and then just charge the buyer big money for mods they never did (and frankly you didn't want them to do anyway...so be happy you got one of THOSE cars!)
06-01-2010, 01:48 AM
#17
Three Wheelin'
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Part of the negative response is that you cannot register a Euro in Califonia unless it is registered here already so that eliminates the biggest market for Porsche cars. Second the odometers are almost NEVER right. It was common practice in Germany for dealers who specialized in selling used Porsche cars for export to roll back the odometers since the car was leaving the country anyway. Most "labs" which were bonded and did the federilization paperwork cheated and only did part of it....they had to submit photos of the MPH speedo , door crash bars , inoperative headlight adjusters , seal beam 7 inch headlights but soon realized that they could use the same pictures over and over and NOT DO THE WORK. The just charged thousands of dollars 
The reference to LH is the later style electronic injection with hot wire mass air sensor. Early Euro cars use CIS a mechanical injection with no brains. The Euro with a 5 speed is great fun to drive if you keep the RPM up where it likes to be.
The reference to LH is the later style electronic injection with hot wire mass air sensor. Early Euro cars use CIS a mechanical injection with no brains. The Euro with a 5 speed is great fun to drive if you keep the RPM up where it likes to be.By the way, RFJ, that's a beautiful car. Congratulations, and welcome.
06-01-2010, 05:58 AM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Lack of an air pump doesn't sound like it was federalized at all, but could be some previous owner decided to remove it.
Does it have an O2 sensor on the exhaust?
06-01-2010, 07:52 AM
#19
Drifting
As far as the fed job goes, the less the better, and it does not matter anymore anyways.
Great Car! The paint looks awesome!. It has H4's (a type of headlight) which is good. Seriously this car is one of the best especially if the condition is similar for the interior and engine bay as the paint appears. We need a thorough, high quality photo shoot of this. I also own an 85 Euro with somewhat low miles, though yours is lower. Besides yours, there was an 85 Guards red sold from PA a few years back with similar miles and a recent purchase of an 84 black Euro to Boston with low miles. The best of the best imo.
Read the owners manual if you have it or online on the thread here posted by Andrew to begin to learn about your Euro then get the morehouse CD's.
BTW - (1) My Euro lived 10 years in PA and (2) you have a neighbor with a twin to your car named Normy. (another Fl resident with a black 85 euro)
Any questions - just post and please get some more pics.
Great Car! The paint looks awesome!. It has H4's (a type of headlight) which is good. Seriously this car is one of the best especially if the condition is similar for the interior and engine bay as the paint appears. We need a thorough, high quality photo shoot of this. I also own an 85 Euro with somewhat low miles, though yours is lower. Besides yours, there was an 85 Guards red sold from PA a few years back with similar miles and a recent purchase of an 84 black Euro to Boston with low miles. The best of the best imo.
Read the owners manual if you have it or online on the thread here posted by Andrew to begin to learn about your Euro then get the morehouse CD's.
BTW - (1) My Euro lived 10 years in PA and (2) you have a neighbor with a twin to your car named Normy. (another Fl resident with a black 85 euro)
Any questions - just post and please get some more pics.
06-01-2010, 10:50 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
928-euro info
I am sorry as i can not give you much more info on the car as i am in ME and its in FL. I have the vin and photos there. No body commeted on the tranny problem(hard shifting into low when cold) would be nice to have some input.We , my family used to live in Tolland CT, before retirement and i will watch and listen to learn who hase the twin to mine, thou i do dot have a name for mine As far as the inside goes there is wear on the drivers seat along the bottom from (i assume) someone getting in and out of the backn seat. Thank you to everyone who has responed so far and i keep reading with interest the other subjects. the paint on mine was wet sanded and polished just before i got it. Best to all Ray
As far as the inside goes there is wear on the drivers seat along the bottom from (i assume) someone getting in and out of the backn seat. Thank you to everyone who has responed so far and i keep reading with interest the other subjects. the paint on mine was wet sanded and polished just before i got it. Best to all Ray
06-01-2010, 10:59 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
928 info
Sorry i ment to up load some photos so you could see what i ment about the wear on seat soooo here they are... Could anyone tell me what the best and cheapest way to get an extra 40 or 50 hp out of this motor????
Could anyone tell me what the best and cheapest way to get an extra 40 or 50 hp out of this motor????
06-01-2010, 11:32 AM
#22
Three Wheelin'
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My car does the same thing as far as shifting. I am planning to do a transaxle oil change soon and will let the group know whether/how much this helps. My experience with other manual transmissions makes me think that an oil change to fresh good synthetic, and ensuring there's enough oil in there, will probably help.
As for the extra HP, are you sure you're currently getting what you should out of the car? Does it seem underpowered, or do you just want more?
As for the extra HP, are you sure you're currently getting what you should out of the car? Does it seem underpowered, or do you just want more?
06-01-2010, 01:34 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
02 sensor
no 02 sensor, nothing. as far as power it seems a little low but from experence 350 to 360 seems to be a good number. have not had a chance to do anything to the car or even check anything except cats 02 and smog pump as i was real interested, then wings to ME. can't wait to get back.
06-01-2010, 01:40 PM
#24
Drifting
Assuming all your sensors are working and the LH has not been mucked up
1) Open up your exhaust
2) 2 RRFPR's
3) Tune on dyno for best A/F mix using above and the MAF dial
4) Check throttle cable for proper tension so butterfly opens max
5) full synthetic motor oil
That should give you more than enough power for US roads.
1) Open up your exhaust
2) 2 RRFPR's
3) Tune on dyno for best A/F mix using above and the MAF dial
4) Check throttle cable for proper tension so butterfly opens max
5) full synthetic motor oil
That should give you more than enough power for US roads.
06-01-2010, 01:53 PM
#25
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They did add surface mount front and rear sidemarkers which are not Porsche items as well as the MPH speedo. The nice H-4 headlights are not legal in the US but since headlights have become so stylized it should not be an issue. The Feds thought that being able to adjust lights would have too many people setting them too high and blinding on coming traffic which was a big issue when many roads were still only two lanes. And no there is little "freedom" just look at the greenhouse gas rules and realize that the gas which YOU exhale (carbon dioxide) is also too be "regulated".
06-01-2010, 04:00 PM
#26
Nordschleife Master
US speedo, but Euro tach, like I said, roll of the dice on the specifics. Vin and history may help.
RE "less is better" with federalizing, true as long as you don't end up with "part" of some funky smog system buried in your wiring and no longer operating correctly.
First step in getting more HP, get the car running 100% stock, which should be something like 250 rwhp. Add an X pipe and open up the exhaust (headers or US 85/86 manifolds) and high flow muffler and you should be getting about 25 or more additional hp. More hp than that requires more serious money.
I'd like to hit 350 rwhp myself, and what I think it will take is a 5.0 or 5.4L short block, ported Euro heads, and a high lift, high duration cam and valve train along with the previously mentioned stuff.
Shifting into first could be a clutch issue, not fully releasing, but it could also be worn tranny parts and time to replace them. Needs more details.
RE "less is better" with federalizing, true as long as you don't end up with "part" of some funky smog system buried in your wiring and no longer operating correctly.
First step in getting more HP, get the car running 100% stock, which should be something like 250 rwhp. Add an X pipe and open up the exhaust (headers or US 85/86 manifolds) and high flow muffler and you should be getting about 25 or more additional hp. More hp than that requires more serious money.
I'd like to hit 350 rwhp myself, and what I think it will take is a 5.0 or 5.4L short block, ported Euro heads, and a high lift, high duration cam and valve train along with the previously mentioned stuff.
Shifting into first could be a clutch issue, not fully releasing, but it could also be worn tranny parts and time to replace them. Needs more details.
06-01-2010, 09:54 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
85 euro
I would be happy with 310-320 rear wheel hp, is there nothing to be gained by better intake air or better fuel system? would i be better off with a o2 sensor and better fuel air system? And how does the 928 control a/f without o2 sensor? lots of questions not many answers (me that is)
US speedo, but Euro tach, like I said, roll of the dice on the specifics. Vin and history may help.
RE "less is better" with federalizing, true as long as you don't end up with "part" of some funky smog system buried in your wiring and no longer operating correctly.
First step in getting more HP, get the car running 100% stock, which should be something like 250 rwhp. Add an X pipe and open up the exhaust (headers or US 85/86 manifolds) and high flow muffler and you should be getting about 25 or more additional hp. More hp than that requires more serious money.
I'd like to hit 350 rwhp myself, and what I think it will take is a 5.0 or 5.4L short block, ported Euro heads, and a high lift, high duration cam and valve train along with the previously mentioned stuff.
Shifting into first could be a clutch issue, not fully releasing, but it could also be worn tranny parts and time to replace them. Needs more details.
RE "less is better" with federalizing, true as long as you don't end up with "part" of some funky smog system buried in your wiring and no longer operating correctly.
First step in getting more HP, get the car running 100% stock, which should be something like 250 rwhp. Add an X pipe and open up the exhaust (headers or US 85/86 manifolds) and high flow muffler and you should be getting about 25 or more additional hp. More hp than that requires more serious money.
I'd like to hit 350 rwhp myself, and what I think it will take is a 5.0 or 5.4L short block, ported Euro heads, and a high lift, high duration cam and valve train along with the previously mentioned stuff.
Shifting into first could be a clutch issue, not fully releasing, but it could also be worn tranny parts and time to replace them. Needs more details.
06-01-2010, 10:09 PM
#28
Three Wheelin'
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