stuck brake rotor screws
#17
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
Definitely one of those tools that when you need it, you need it and nothing else. The Craftsman driver lasts forever - not the bits, unfortunately, and they aren't guaranteed for a lifetime...
#18
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I have had my Snap-On impact drive for the same 40+ years that you other fogies have had yours, and for the same reason: early Japanese motorcycle case screws.
The replacement screws I picked up from 928 Int'l are cad-plated steel, but have been resting in parts storage until the last year or two when I finally got around to putting all the new brake bits on the car. The original screws had been in and out several times by then, but using the impact driver did no damage so they went back in with anti-seize. Now the original non-plated screws are in the spares bin. The little gold-colored heads on the new pieces contrast nicely with the rotor hats in zinc plus Zermatt Silver two-stage (to match the wheel finish).
The screws hold the rotor to the hat when the wheels are off, so no chance of a tiny bit of crud falling in between and misaligning the rotor. They are a Good Thing. If the factory thought they wouldn't be needed, they probably wouldn't have bothered putting them on originally. My thinking anyway.
The replacement screws I picked up from 928 Int'l are cad-plated steel, but have been resting in parts storage until the last year or two when I finally got around to putting all the new brake bits on the car. The original screws had been in and out several times by then, but using the impact driver did no damage so they went back in with anti-seize. Now the original non-plated screws are in the spares bin. The little gold-colored heads on the new pieces contrast nicely with the rotor hats in zinc plus Zermatt Silver two-stage (to match the wheel finish).
The screws hold the rotor to the hat when the wheels are off, so no chance of a tiny bit of crud falling in between and misaligning the rotor. They are a Good Thing. If the factory thought they wouldn't be needed, they probably wouldn't have bothered putting them on originally. My thinking anyway.
#19
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Deep in the Heart of Texas!
Posts: 3,269
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
4 Posts
Jim, I have a couple of extras let me know if you need them.
What I would do is drill down a little into the center of the bolt so you can get maximum purchase with a large screwdriver, or better yet, a phillips bit in your ratchet. If you lean into it and have the bit well-seated in the screw that ought to bust them loose. If not, then I'd do like the others and just drill them out ...
What I would do is drill down a little into the center of the bolt so you can get maximum purchase with a large screwdriver, or better yet, a phillips bit in your ratchet. If you lean into it and have the bit well-seated in the screw that ought to bust them loose. If not, then I'd do like the others and just drill them out ...
#20
Rennlist Member
If the impact driver doesn't work: Take the bitholder from the 1/2" impact driver and put it on an extension bar with 1/2" driver. Lean on it while slowly turning the long extension bar. This has helped me loosen quite a lot of stubborn screws!
#21
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,164
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
SO yes the factory needed them, but only to speed the process up.
And one of the reasons that you don't see those screws on the rotors anymore is that the tier one supplier usually supplies the whole corner module assembled now. When you assemble while the hub is face up, no need for a screw.
#22
On my 944S2 the rotors have 2 threads that an M5 bolt (I think) can be inserted. These are designed to help remove a stuck brake rotor by pusing it away from the hub. I think the 928 rotors may be the same although it possibly depends on brand/year etc. My screws were stuck on the 944 and I was able to use these two bolts to gently apply a little pressure between the rotor and hub which freed the stuck screws. Once I removed the bolts the screws then just came right out. Too much pressure would probably snap the screw so be careful. I did try an impact driver but that didn't work for me.
If you look at this pic you will see 5 holes for the bolts on the hub, 2 for the screws and two extra ones that the bolts can be inserted into.
If you look at this pic you will see 5 holes for the bolts on the hub, 2 for the screws and two extra ones that the bolts can be inserted into.
#23
Rennlist Member
WHENEVER I remove these screws from rotors, I always replace them - but with stainless metric screws that I get at Ace Hardware for about 50-75 cents each. Put a little bit of anti-sieze on them, and they are always EASY to remove in the future.
Gary
Gary