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Engine mount removal. Sorted !!!!

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Old 05-16-2010, 10:53 PM
  #16  
jeff spahn
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If you remove the ps line holder (as seen in dwayne's write up) the lines have plenty of room to move. Plus it gives you a reason to own some really cool ratchet drive box end wrenches.
Old 05-16-2010, 11:12 PM
  #17  
GlenL
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I'm waiting for someone to agree with me on this.

I'm offering $5.

Seriously, my studs are welded in and there's no way to get the rack lowered more than a fraction of an inch without releasing that lower u-joint at the rack input.

Last edited by GlenL; 05-16-2010 at 11:39 PM.
Old 05-16-2010, 11:36 PM
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SeanR
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If ya are paying for agreement. I will agree with you for $5.oo
Old 05-17-2010, 08:26 AM
  #19  
Boganspeed
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Okay. got it done.
Undid the power steering line bracket up inside the engine bay.
Left the steering shaft uni joint connected just to see if it could be done without removing it.

Dropped the 6 x 17mm bolts and sandwich plate nuts.
Removed the plate, jiggled the steering rack down and used a 3/8" drive ratchet with a uni joint and 19mm socket to remove the motor mount bolts.

Thanks for all the advice, turned out real easy to do.

Now I just need to get my new adaptor mounts bolted in and I'm good to go to the next step.
Old 05-17-2010, 10:21 AM
  #20  
GlenL
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Originally Posted by Boganspeed
Removed the plate, jiggled the steering rack down and used a 3/8" drive ratchet with a uni joint and 19mm socket to remove the motor mount bolts.
Looks like I learned something. I'll have to try that next time. It will reduce the amount of ATF that drips on me which is something that really pisses me off. A u-joint messes up torque values but "really tight" and a spot of loctite works, too.



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