Tom928

This is a pic of the end of my A/T kickdown solenoid.

Is this 'stuck" in the ON position?
I can not find any reference or pic to suggest what the normal position is.
Is the opening OPEN or blocked normally?


Thanks for the help,

Tom928

bump

WallyP

Put 12 vdc on it and see what happens.

Tom928

Hi Wally,

I did test the unit on the car. I don't hear a click when I press the pedal to the floor and engage the kickdown switch; however, I do just as I let off the pedal. Steve C. suggested that my no downshift problem could be that the solenoid is "stuck" in the ON position. Since I don't have a spare and can't find a pic, I'm not sure if the opening is open normally or blocked normally or what the travel of the pin inside the opening is.

EDIT: in testing the opening is blocked in both the ON and OFF conditions.

I would think that the opening SB "OPEN" but since I have no reference as to what normal is, I am not sure.

Thanks for the help.

Landseer

I have one. Will go check for you. Right back.

Landseer

Looks same to me with/without actuation in your side view, when I apply voltage.

With voltage, the plunger retracts. That view stays same, but the end view would show the pin being slightly deeper in the hole.

It has a strong electromagnet in there and makes a clunking sound with voltage. Had to sand the bolt to get a good surface. Neg to bolt, pos to male (that should be correct).

I don't have a with/without voltage comparison, not enough hands. But here are non-voltage pics:

Tom928

Thanks landseer for taking the time to check for me.

I'll go back and check mine again to see if it retracts at all.

underdog928

Tom: Thanks for posting this question. I've been trying to troubleshoot a problem with my A/T on the '85 with VERY late upshifts. Very late, like 4200rpm to get the 3-4 shift to happen.

I've tested the kickdown circuit and all seems fine, except that the I never hear a peep from solenoid.

What symptoms are you seeing from your A/T that you think that the solenoid is bad?

How the hell did you get the solenoid out? Seems to be no room between the rear of the trans and the cross member.

Tom928

O.K. things are making sense now.
I pulled and checked the kickdown solenoid. The pin is stuck against the end. There is pressure holding it "ON", I can force it back but it returns to stuck ON.
Looks like I need a new solenoid.

Underdog - my symptoms were no kickdown. I could floor the pedal and no downshift. When I tested the solenoid, I got no click when I engaged the kickdown. I get only 1 "click" and that is when I disengage the kickdown switch. I presume that there should be 2 clicks. One when you engage the KD switch and another when you release it.

Getting the solenoid out was a mess. I got it lose, pulled it back, then turned it to get the end on the open side, then push up and then turn the housing 180 deg to pull it out the bottom. Be prepared for ATF to begin flowing (no just dripping) out the open hole as soon as you pull the solenoid from the casing. I also lost the sealing ring for a moment. I plugged the hole with a plastic cap I have.

If you have late up-shifts, I would suspect the cable adjustment first. Then I would look at the governor pressure. If I understand the theory correctly, low governor pressure can cause the trans to wait longer to shift. Then look at control pressure if it is too high, it can cause the same condition.
I'm no expert by any means, Steve C. is the man to talk to on these problems.

Cheers,

underdog928

Thanks Tom. Ok, so probably not my inoperable KD solenoid.

I'm going to check the vacuum line to the modulator next and see if it holds vacuum. From the numerous searches I've done here, my A/T problem seems to point in that general direction. I also have a new bowden cable in hand, ready to replace the old one, if necessary.

Thanks for you help.