I recommend crimp + solder.

 

Hey John, the ring terminals I bought are a solder & seal type. I can insert the cluster of wires into and heat to 295 degrees to melt the solder and completely seal it. I'll take the soldering iron to it, add heat so it will seal up real nice.

Here are the terminals below I will be using:

Wire Terminal
Product Line: NAPA Wire Products

Part Number: NW 784413

Features & Benefits: Terminals Will Solder, Seal & Provide Vibration Resistance & Superior Terminal Separation Protection, Fluxed Solder Ring Cleans & Solders Connection, 150 lbs Separation Rating, No Crimping Needed









I also just found a sweet little pencil torch at Ace Hardware so I can heat that little sucker up faster. My tactic for soldering wires back there was to surround the areas that are volatile with a damp towel, then do the soldering.

 

Make sure your wires ends are really clean, so the solder flow properly into them.

 

Will do! I am going to cut until I see clean wire and perhaps use a little isopropyl alcohol to clean them too.

 

Hey guys I am back at it again today and I have INTERESTING NEWs. I yanked the fuel damper and regulator at the back of the engine and found something a little unsettling. Don't know how to put this lightly but, The motherf***ing LH/EZK MPIX ground was loosey-goosey! I could literally turn the bolt with my finger!!

I also snapped a pic for everyone to see it after pulling it out under the throttle wheel. What do you guys think? Should I redo it with a new ring terminal and solder? It is so damn tight in there (that's what she said)

 

Looks good to me. Just clean it with WD-40, wire-brush the ground point and re-install.

 

Boy that solder looks ok. Just shine up the ring and clamp with light sand paper and tighten it. Probably not worth trying to remove and resolder in that tight of area. Your MAF connector looked like mine before I redid it. CPS connector looks ok. Any cracks?

 

CPS connector is brand new. Probably has 400 miles on it at the most. Engine harness side is not cracked whatsoever.

 

How does this look? I also hit it with Deoxit. It's literally shiny.

 

I think you've solved it.

 

Ship it! Good on the CPS..thought I'd ask after my learning opportunity.

 

Hey Andy:

Ew, that's shiny! See if it makes any difference. Even though the MAF connector looked nasty, there was no obvious short or wire break. It should be repaired, but I'd be curious to see if the loose ground was contributing. My car ran terrible, but only occasionally so, when I had an LH ground that was not quite factory correct.

 

I just went through this with mine, congrats on finding a probable cause.

I would go ahead and replace the temp II, MAF, TPS and IAC connectors and if the temp II, IAC, TPS and MAF are not know good I would replace them also.

My MAF connector looked better than yours and I could not prove with a scope the signal was bad, but it sure seems to run better now.

The idle is rock solid, no more slight miss at idle, feels like it has more power with my old or new MAF.

Mine would go for a relatively long period of running good, then it would loose the ability to control the idle until I did a relearn on it, some times it would be good for a while and some times it would go to crap in a few miles.


I have driven it enough now to feel secure in the fact that it is repaired now.

I did clean all the grounds before I pulled the intake to replace the almost new stuff under it, but I went ahead and recleaned the grounds at the engine while I was there and all of the others on the ground point list, plus replaced a couple of them.

Again, congrats on finding your problem.

 

He found a possible cause, but is the car running yet?

 

I had to stop working on it today because of an urgent matter we are still dealing with here.

I will pick up on putting it back together on Monday. I can't believe the LH ground was literally LOOSE.