928autobahndreamer

I had a chance to spend a few hours working on my 928 today. My to do list included reinstalling the radiator, (pass side plastic end tank leak at the top), and replacing my old loudly buzzing fuel pump.

Well, the newly repaired radiator went in smoothly, no problems there.

Went to the back and drained the fuel (had enough to fill both family cars with what was in the tank). And changed out the in tank filter. Went to remove the old fuel pump, and man that thing is really stuck on there.

I HATE banjo fittings.

There is not much room between the old pump and the line to fit the 17mm wrench to counterhold. With not much pressure the inside nut is starting to deform. I now have some PB blaster soaking and will try later to get it free.

Anyone have any tips to get this thing out. Do I need any different tools than the 17 and 20mm wrenches? I don't think I could fit a flare nut wrench in there due to the pump being in the way. Did I mention that I HATE banjo fittings.

Any pearls of wisdom would be appreciated.

robot808

I think it was Bill Ball that helped me out with this. He ground down one side of a 17mm wrench until it would fit in there. It is a bit of a PITA cutting the wrench, but it works really well. I am trying to find a picture of it. I found it by searching on here, hopefully I can find it again.

robot808

Here is what he did with an angle grinder. I used a dremel, that is why it sucked for me.

Mrmerlin

remove the fuel pump and fiter from the car plug the fuel line from the tank unless its empty .
You will have a better chance of fixing this without damage . now it sounds like you will need a new chack valve.
i also suggest to buy a new hard line and check valve and the 3 sealing washers use some thread sealant on the check valve to the pump then anti seize on the cap nut threads . usually the hard line end is deformed just enough to cause a small leak if you use new parts then it wont leak if you dont overtighten the parts.
Note be careful with the wires on the pump they are held on with small nuts and if you over tighten them you can shear them off this then requires a new pump to be fitted

robot808

BTDT.

928autobahndreamer

Thanks for the replys. I have been trying to be very careful with the fittings, but if there is any leak i'll replace the hard line and check valve.

I'll try again this afternoon.

SeanR

I've busted more than one of the hard lines, they are cheap to replace.

928autobahndreamer

Thanks guys. Got the fuel pump out without too much more drama. The pump itself unscrewed from the check valve and I was able to trim one of the posts enough to remove the pump entirely. This allowed me to get a good wrench on the check valve and end cap and pop it free.

My new pump came with a check valve, so it looks like it should still seal well.

I'll know once I get fuel in.

Mrmerlin

put in 2 gallons and stop

928autobahndreamer

Yep, Have the 2 gallon tank ready to go.

Thanks for reminding me though.

mj1pate

I just completed the fuel pump and fuel filter install. Here are a couple observations.

I had to "adapt" a 17mm open end wrench to fit in between the terminal posts. An angle grinder made short work of the wrench. It worked, see the photos.

It did occur to me that based on the angle of the flats of the nut below the banjo fitting, you not be able to get any wrench in between those electrical posts. I guess some of us have been lucky.

I suggest paying attention to a few points, as below (remember to evacuate the tank first of course):


1) If you have no idea when the fuel pump was ever replaced, also replace the flex hose between it and the pump. Yes, its hard to start loosening the clamp on the tank side, depending on how the factory positioned the clamp. replacing the clamp is quite straight forward, and getting a good angle to it is easy. replace the filter also, of course.

2) Don't even fool with disconnecting the cross pipe until the assembly is off the car.

3) When reattaching the cross pipe, after replacing the pump/filter; leave the band clap around the filter loose, so that the filter can shift into position, so as to oblige the cross pipe and not require the cross pipe to deform. Then tighten the band clamp around the filter. I will mention now that the fitting to the filter was made "quite firm". The banjo fitting was also made "quite firm". This one seeped ever so slightly and I had to come back and make this "really tight". More on this later.

4) I think the order of reattaching the completed assembly to the car is:
a) hold the unit up to its approx installed position so as to see what
attitude the flex hose will be in once everything is secured.
Taking precautions so that gas doesn't go everywhere, secure the
flex hose to the tank in that position.
b) loosely support the assembly to the under side of the tank area
by cable ties. This allows some support for the assembly
while you adjust things
c) reattach the positive wire to the pos terminal (back facing side
of the pump)
d) place the assembly on its proper hangers, without securing with bolts.
It may have to come down for a bit, after your first power on test
e) attach the flex hose to the pump
f) attach the upstream fitting to the filter. Make this connection "really firm"
g) connect the neg wire to the neg post on the pump.

5) Put several gallons back into the tank. reconnect the neg battery cable to ground and plug in a jumper in place of the fuel relay.

6) Now watch for leaks. Unless the cross pipe was abused in some way, you will not likely see drips. Check every 30 seconds with bare fingers for a slight "film" on a finger after swiping the non-flex fittings with a finger. It took at least 40 seconds for any film to be evident on a finger involved in the test. Your options here are to either take the assembly apart and rebuild the cross pipe connection from scratch or 1) lift the assembly off its hangers, 2) loosen the leaking fitting and retighten a bit tighter, 3) rehang the assembly on its hangers and repeat the test steps. In my case, I found a film developing behind the banjo end cap. I loosened it, as described in the above sequence and tightened it "very tight", without disassembling it, using the same crush rings that I ahd originally assembled with. I had no leaks after this.

7) retest as in step 5 if necessary

8) Now, secure the assembly to its hangers with washers and nuts

Bill Ball

Even with my modified 17mm open end that you show it's still a tight fit and hard to remove the fitting w/o screwing up the wire posts. Glad the basic idea worked for mj1pate. As he pointed out it is possible the flats will not align such that this kind of modified wrench will fit. What tool did Porsche use?

mj1pate

Good point. After replacing the pump/ filter combo, I had to go back in and retighten the banjo end cap to seal off a slight seapage. That second time I had to put more than my wrist into tightening the banjo end cap; hoping that one of those terminal studs wouldn't go flying off. All is well now, but I wish the act of replacing a fuel pump wasn't such a potentially expensive venture. Paying $260 once was a big enough ouch.

928NOOBIE

All -

Just did both dampers, '87 FPR, Fuel Filter, Pump-to-Tank tube, hard-line from pump to filter. Got all the parts from our friend Roger.

This is on an early '86 with V4 Porkens, rebuilt injectors, X-pipe(no stinkin' cats) and probably a few goodies I missed.

Took the advice on removing the entire pump/filter assembly off the car (really good advice).

Ran fuel pump for about 20 minutes...no leaks...excellent instructions. Car had original front damper and probably rear one as well...needless to say we are a much happier (and gassier) car...vroom!...

Thanks for the great narrative above..could NOT have been this successful doing this job for the first time without the information...no way.