New Hood Vent - Tastes Great & Less Filling
#46
Don't get me wrong, black or red, it is awesome and love it. I think your car is one of the nicest I have seen. I love the TS setup. I would love to hear it at a WOT run standing on the side of the road as you go by.
If you haven't driven a car with a TS you are really missing a cool treat! Low end tq right off the bat and it will pull till redline.
If you haven't driven a car with a TS you are really missing a cool treat! Low end tq right off the bat and it will pull till redline.
#48
#51
It's not needed based on flow and pressure of that area. IF the top of the radiator is sealed to the hood, as it comes stock. the air cant go forward to the hood latch area because that is a higher pressure. (measured) And, it cant go over the radiator if it is sealed to the hood. where it can go, is around the bumper struts, as that is a clear leak to the sides of the car. what is generally overlooked in overheating, is burping the system.
#52
the piece onthe bottom is needed, and that should do exactly as you suggested. however, the top ducting is not needed due to the area being sealed off pressure -wise. on the S4, we dont have this gap at the bottom. If you reallly want to increase flow to the radiator, you have to get to the sides of the lower airdam, as it has clear paths to the under the car, via the side path around the bumper struts. the good news is, there is such a great amount of pressure, it can feed the restriction of the radiator without issue and get substantial flow, espcially with the use of the fans. in thinking about it, it could be the reason that you need the fans at moderate speeds, because Ill overheat without them, but sealing out that area might help a little. Ill have to try it. on the S4, that side area is huge. Ill have to check out scots car to see how it looks on the pre-s4, but I believe it is substantial there too.
mk
Mark, I didn't need to use the barge boards that I built.....I was talking about the pieces that I have in front of the radiator to direct all of the flow to the radiator and heat exchanger cores.
The bottom piece is to fill a gap that there was between the front of the spoiler and the lower radiator core support. I believe air was spilling over the front of the spoiler into this opening and under the car. Now it has to go through the radiator.
The upper pieces are to keep the air driving to the core. Most of the articles I have read talk about the huge increase in cooling effeciency with properly designed cowling for the radiators.
You'll notice I even have a piece of foam in place where the head lamp arm swings through.
Regards,
Ken
mk
Mark, I didn't need to use the barge boards that I built.....I was talking about the pieces that I have in front of the radiator to direct all of the flow to the radiator and heat exchanger cores.
The bottom piece is to fill a gap that there was between the front of the spoiler and the lower radiator core support. I believe air was spilling over the front of the spoiler into this opening and under the car. Now it has to go through the radiator.
The upper pieces are to keep the air driving to the core. Most of the articles I have read talk about the huge increase in cooling effeciency with properly designed cowling for the radiators.
You'll notice I even have a piece of foam in place where the head lamp arm swings through.
Regards,
Ken
#53
Mark,
I would have had to seal off the air intake inlets for the engine at the very least, because I don't use them anymore....so why would you want the air to tumble around up there, reverse and then flow through the radiator when you can just do that to begin with. My fan is set at 175 degrees and unless I am stopped in traffic it just doesn't run.
The sides are almost completely closed as well.
Seems pretty simple to me.
Ken
I would have had to seal off the air intake inlets for the engine at the very least, because I don't use them anymore....so why would you want the air to tumble around up there, reverse and then flow through the radiator when you can just do that to begin with. My fan is set at 175 degrees and unless I am stopped in traffic it just doesn't run.
The sides are almost completely closed as well.
Seems pretty simple to me.
Ken
#54
I thought you already had sealed those off, which would be a simple cap-off.
how did you seal off the sides from the inlet of the air dam? around the bumper struts there is a gaping area that might be different in the early cars.
how did you seal off the sides from the inlet of the air dam? around the bumper struts there is a gaping area that might be different in the early cars.
Mark,
I would have had to seal off the air intake inlets for the engine at the very least, because I don't use them anymore....so why would you want the air to tumble around up there, reverse and then flow through the radiator when you can just do that to begin with. My fan is set at 175 degrees and unless I am stopped in traffic it just doesn't run.
The sides are almost completely closed as well.
Seems pretty simple to me.
Ken
I would have had to seal off the air intake inlets for the engine at the very least, because I don't use them anymore....so why would you want the air to tumble around up there, reverse and then flow through the radiator when you can just do that to begin with. My fan is set at 175 degrees and unless I am stopped in traffic it just doesn't run.
The sides are almost completely closed as well.
Seems pretty simple to me.
Ken
#55
Update track report.
I spent 3 days at Nelson Ledges last week with temperatures in the mid to high 80's and 30 minute run sessions. The hood vent is working very well. The car temperature stayed almost dead center in the gauge face. In the past it would have been beyond the second hash mark and I would have had to keep an eye on it. One of my other 928 friends who was there commented at the lack of heat coming off the engine after a session.
I am pretty happy with the results.
Ken
I spent 3 days at Nelson Ledges last week with temperatures in the mid to high 80's and 30 minute run sessions. The hood vent is working very well. The car temperature stayed almost dead center in the gauge face. In the past it would have been beyond the second hash mark and I would have had to keep an eye on it. One of my other 928 friends who was there commented at the lack of heat coming off the engine after a session.
I am pretty happy with the results.
Ken
#56
The vent looks good and people on the 944 board think your car is "BAD ***!"
For future vent projects, how about using the deutsche nine 968 Turbo RS replica vent?
http://www.deutschnine.com/mm5/merch...-aero-dynamics
For future vent projects, how about using the deutsche nine 968 Turbo RS replica vent?
http://www.deutschnine.com/mm5/merch...-aero-dynamics
#59
This is cool. To me, it's another testament to the 928's mechanical brilliance in that premier techs choose it for mods like this. Seems the 928's performance potential is only beginning to be tapped.
#60
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The vent looks good and people on the 944 board think your car is "BAD ***!" For future vent projects, how about using the deutsche nine 968 Turbo RS replica vent?
As far as the vent, I did look at that vent and the only thing that stopped me was the price, I believe the best deal I could find was in the $350 range. If I thought that it would drop in that might have been OK, but I don't think it will follow the countour of the hood, which means you will have to cut it apart. I didn't mind doing that with the $60 vent that I found on e-bay. Where that vent is placed on the 968 is farther forward and flatter, back where the vent needs to be on the 928 there more of a high center.
Regards,
Ken