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antiseize on the metal fuel lines before reassembly?

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Old 04-17-2010, 12:24 PM
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Glenn M
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Default antiseize on the metal fuel lines before reassembly?

Can I use alluminum antiseize on my fuel line connections? Is there a better choice or leave them clean? I have noticed some of the threads have started to corrode.

Thanks
Old 04-17-2010, 12:33 PM
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Maleficio
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I'd probably use teflon plumbing tape myself.
Old 04-17-2010, 12:49 PM
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linderpat
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Glenn - I just did this the other night (on my 78). Dave Anderson's write up shows the use of the silver antiseize, and that's what I used - not too much. I haven't pressured the lines yet, so I don't know how it holds up from that perspective. I do know that these were some of the hardest fittings I ever tried to break free, and one of them I could not, and just dremelled off the collar in site.
As to teflon tape, I have read on other threads that that is a big no-no. Somone else can confirm, but those fittings are designed to not need it.
Old 04-17-2010, 01:06 PM
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Maleficio
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Originally Posted by linderpat
Glenn - I just did this the other night (on my 78). Dave Anderson's write up shows the use of the silver antiseize, and that's what I used - not too much. I haven't pressured the lines yet, so I don't know how it holds up from that perspective. I do know that these were some of the hardest fittings I ever tried to break free, and one of them I could not, and just dremelled off the collar in site.
As to teflon tape, I have read on other threads that that is a big no-no. Somone else can confirm, but those fittings are designed to not need it.

Is there no room in the threads for the tape?

I've used teflon tape on plastic pneumatic fittings before, and it exposed weak fittings because the extra pressure forced the bad fittings to crack open.

So it may not be a good idea.
Old 04-17-2010, 01:09 PM
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Landseer
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I was taught never to use teflon tape on fuel connections.

Its chemically inert, but mechanically it separates and bits of tape can clog orfices and not be dissolvable, hence resistant to flush.
Old 04-17-2010, 01:18 PM
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robot808
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I use anti-seize on mine. I just took them apart again and was very happy I did. Jim Bailey has mentioned that Teflon tape is incorrect for use with these type of fittings.
Old 04-17-2010, 01:25 PM
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Maleficio
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Obviously it makes sense to NOT use teflon tape based upon what Landseer said, but what about the anti-sieze compound? If bits of teflon can find their way into your fuel system, then surely anti-sieze compound could also find it's way into your fuel system. Anti-seize is some heavy-duty stuff, and I wonder what kind of problems it would create if it got into circulation? Would it plug up an injector, too?
Old 04-17-2010, 01:40 PM
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Glenn M
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Where can you buy silver antiseize? Local parts stores don't seem to have it.

Thanks
Old 04-17-2010, 01:43 PM
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Stromius
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Silver the same as aluminum anti seize??
Old 04-17-2010, 01:50 PM
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robot808
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I think the reference is just to the normal silver-colored anti-seize. That's what I used and am about to use again. I use just a touch. I make a reasonable effort not to get much if any in the flow of the fuel and only on the threads. If it's good enough for SharkSkin, it's good enough for me.
Old 04-17-2010, 01:54 PM
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Bill Ball
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Originally Posted by Maleficio
Obviously it makes sense to NOT use teflon tape based upon what Landseer said, but what about the anti-sieze compound? If bits of teflon can find their way into your fuel system, then surely anti-sieze compound could also find it's way into your fuel system. Anti-seize is some heavy-duty stuff, and I wonder what kind of problems it would create if it got into circulation? Would it plug up an injector, too?
The sealing surface for these fittings is not the threads. It's the ball end. As long as you keep the anti-seize only on the threads, I can't see a problem with antiseize getting where it's not supposed to, although I have never done this. The main issue is that people overtorque these fittings. If the ball and socket ends are smooth and clean, the torque required is no more than 22 ft lbs. That's not very tight. I'm not sure whether antiseize would change this or make it more likely the fitting could come loose. It can in other settings. I just avoid the whole issue by making sure the fittings are clean and and not overtorqued.
Old 04-17-2010, 01:54 PM
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PorKen
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At least use (light) oil on the threads and fittings to prevent galling and rounding of the connectors.
Old 04-17-2010, 02:00 PM
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Glenn M
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There is a "silver antiseize" looks like Fastenal carries it, they can also get nickel antiseize.
Mine isn't open today and they don't show it in stock.

I used aluminum but I'm not sure if it was a good idea. I'm worried about corrosion between the aluminum antiseize and the threads.

Thanks
Old 04-17-2010, 02:31 PM
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Fogey1
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Some topics come around again and again. Here's a personal email reference compilation I made of a bunch of antiseize threads and links and comment fragments. HTH.
#################################

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-lugs-etc.html
Special antiseize for lugs etc...

From the 1986 booklet of service info by year:
Wheel Nut Treatment on Aluminum Rims
If wheel nuts are lubricated with the wrong type of grease prior to installation or even installed
dry, the spherical calottes of wheel nuts could seize in the countersunk holes of the rims.
The factory is using OPTIMOLY TA paste successfully at the present time.
This lubricant is available in 150gram tubes for Service (Part No. 000.043.020.00).
The tightening torque for wheel nuts is still 130 Nm.
Lots of interesting reading in this series of booklets, available in Jim Morehouse's CD set.



Here is more info than you ever wanted...
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...lubricant.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...itability.html
Wally Plumley


Lubro Moly
Copper Anti Seize Compound
Part No. 2012
I still have a tube I bought from Devek when I bought the wheels for the 79. I use on both cars and still have most of the tube left. Here's a link to what it looks like.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Chemi...bes/Lubro-Moly

Here is the MSDS sheets for the Optimol TA which lists composition of ingredients that could be compared to similar products.
http://msdspds.castroladvantage.com/ils/msdspdsv2.nsf/0/29CDA4571F5B0F2180257375004D72A2/$File/113846%2Epdf
David Roberts


https://rennlist.com/forums/6150304-post37.html
Wally,
I also have problems with graphite and aluminium due to the corrosion.
I was involved with the building design and building of 7 LNG Carriers, 125,000 cubic metres of LNG per voyage and the 4 cargo thanks were 40 metre internal diameter Moss Rosenburg aluminium tanks, no graphite and no carbon was allowed anywhere near the tanks due to carring temperature of -162 degrees C (expansion and contraction) and any imperfections were limited to 0.2mm IIRC, so I have a healthy respect for not using graphite on aluminium especially in high stressed areas.
When I replaced the first set of spark plugs on my car over 9 years ago I put the RACOL anti seize on the threads of the plugs and torqued up.
After installation I remembered graphite and aluminium. Next day down loaded the MSDS for RACOL and no graphite of carbon content, so all was OK, so I would have some concerns with Optimol Paste TA with 10 to 20% graphite content.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

... and providing the following links for reference:
http://depacproducts.net/anti.html
http://www.sacskyranch.com/antiseize.htm
Worf

https://rennlist.com/forums/6249003-post52.html
Bill ball posts 4/85 Tech Bulletin on lubing wheel nuts
Old 04-17-2010, 03:32 PM
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ibkevin
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The sealing surface for these fittings is not the threads.
Bill beat me to it, the threads are not your sealing surface and no need to get "exotic" antiseizes.

Tape will work in an emergency but a hydraulic sealant is preferred, tape is not a long term solution.


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