careful1

I just finished the intake refresh last evening and tried to start the car and nothing happened. I had all the electrical working but just clicks when the key is turned on. I thought the battery was the problem so I tried charging it over night. Still nothing. So I took the battery back to where I bought it to have it checked out and it was fine. I also swapped out the relays and still just clicks. The car started just fine before I started this project. What do I do now? Thanks, Doug

SQLGuy

Hi Doug,

What's involved in the intake refresh?

Things I would look at are the heavy 12V cable that runs from the battery up to the starter and alternator (make sure, if you can get to it, that there is 12V at the starter from the heavy cable). I'd also verify that the alarm system is not immobilizing the car.

Otherwise, the starter solenoid sounds suspect.

Good luck,
Paul

Mrmerlin

check the ground strap connection and add a battery jumper cable from the ground to a good chassis ground.
Many ground straps though may look gor but are in fact corroded inside. Next check the hot post connections. Open the 14 pin connector above it and check these pins for corrosion.

Then clean all of the fuses in the CE panel with an eraser. Inspect all of the relays for corroded pins any with corrosion should be opened and smelled for burning.
Fuse relay chart here 928gt.com on page 2 under tips and links, verify all the fuses are correct as well as the relays

careful1

Thanks guys. I've only had the car for only a short while. I don't know how the alarm system works . Also, I've cleaned the cables on the battery and the strap to the ground by the battery. Where is the 14 pin connector? I might add we are talking about a 1988 s4. I also have cleaned the fuses and changed all the suspect ones. I guess I might do it again.

Shark Attack

I doubt the refresh has really anything to do with this one.

After you check your ground strap and the connections on the started. Tap the starter>> TAP<<<, DO NOT DAMAGE THE CASE.. Just TAP it with a hammer. If it starts at that point. New started time

WallyP

I would suggest doing some systematic troubleshooting.

1) Use a test light or multimeter to check for 12 vdc on the yellow wire in Q13 when the ignition switch is turned to the start position. Q13 is terminal 13 on Plug Q. The plugs are alpha from left to right, with no I plug, so Q is 16th from the left end.
The terminals are arranged:
15 25
14 24
13 23
12 22
11 21

If there is power here, the problem is the 14-terminal connection near the jump start terminal on the right fender panel, the harness, or the solenoid.

If there is no power here, check for power on the yellow wire in A23. If there is no power here, the problem is the ignition switch or the harness. If there is power here, the problem is the safety start switch (automatics only), the starter relay (Relay XIV, automatics only), a connection inside the Central Electric Panel, or a problem with the LH ECU.

Much easier than a shotgun approach.

Landseer

An if you find less than battery voltage, ground strap should be checked.

careful1

Wally, When I'm testing voltage where is it that I start? Is it at the fuse panel? Sorry for the amatuerish questions but I am just now learning this stuff." Old dog new tricks." Thanks , Doug

careful1

Also.... How does the 14 pin box open? I don't want to break it .

careful1

I guess I'm down to the place where it could be the safety start switch, or the relay( I did swap out some relays ) or a loose wire in the CE or the ECU. So , how do I procede from here. Thanks, Doug

Stromius

Hey Doug -
I had a similar thing happen with mine after my timing belt job last summer. I narrowed it to very corroded #1 wire on the 14 pin connector.

Mine had completely disintigrated and was green with corrosion as was the other end at the starter. I used heat shrink wire cover to fix it back up.

Pics:
http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showpo...4&postcount=36

SteveG

Before you start poking in the CE or other electrical, disconnect the batt ground strap. IIRC, the 14 pin cover is a snap-on; probably brittle with age, then some screws that fasten it to the chassis. Becareful to note the position of each pin as you remove the assembly. They may slide out of the holder and it would be good to note their position in the holder for reassembly.

careful1

It's very strange that it started just fine before I took off the intake. Does the 14 pin have a part in the ignition? I do have voltage to the starter using a volt meter at the terminals of the starter. I also took off the cables at the starter and cleaned them. I did clean the cable end to the 14 pin but haven't taken it apart. I will do that next. Also , could it be the starter safety switch. Thanks, Doug.

Landseer

How far did you disassemble the intake?

careful1

I did the Dwayne post minus the bearings.I had to take the intake off to re-attach the flappy valve vacuum line . I had injectors cleaned, Replaced knock sensors, new lines and rubber elbows etc.