What KIND of welding is needed for Aluminum?
#1
Drifting
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What KIND of welding is needed for Aluminum?
I need to weld up the body side molding holes on Garrett's car. What should I be looking for as far as welder type?
Thanks, Dean
Thanks, Dean
#5
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How weird this comes up now,I'm in the middle of doing the same thing as well as widening my fenders.You need to A/C TIG Weld them.I'm using a Miller 200DX Inverter machine with 4043 filler wire. I cannot stress to you the importance of the cleanliness of the fender and filler piece on both sides that your putting in.One little speck of dirt or paint and it all goes to sh-t.
Clean all surfaces on both sides with a stainless steel wire brush then some acetone to prep the surfaces.Use very low heat and start the pool on the thicker filler piece first because the fenders melt real quick.Good luck and take your time. Try a bunch of practice pieces first to find your comfort settings.
If all your going for is plugging up the moulding holes,I would recommend using fiberglass re-inforced body filler and flexable screen patch.Much cheaper and faster and probably better results. Ed
Clean all surfaces on both sides with a stainless steel wire brush then some acetone to prep the surfaces.Use very low heat and start the pool on the thicker filler piece first because the fenders melt real quick.Good luck and take your time. Try a bunch of practice pieces first to find your comfort settings.
If all your going for is plugging up the moulding holes,I would recommend using fiberglass re-inforced body filler and flexable screen patch.Much cheaper and faster and probably better results. Ed
#7
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Be sure to not be tempted to run a continous bead , it will warp the crap out of the aluminum fronts or even the rear steel fenders.
Some people do lots of small tacks and run beads between then, some just keep going around with small tacks until the entire surface is completely welded. I guess it's more of a personal choice or what works best for you.
Some people do lots of small tacks and run beads between then, some just keep going around with small tacks until the entire surface is completely welded. I guess it's more of a personal choice or what works best for you.
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#8
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The front fender and door holes will require aluminum wire as you can't weld stainless to aluminum. The rear fenders are galvanized carbon steel so he would have to use a comparable filler for it,although in a pinch he could use the stainless wire in the rear with the right settings and shielding gas.
#9
How weird this comes up now,I'm in the middle of doing the same thing as well as widening my fenders.You need to A/C TIG Weld them.I'm using a Miller 200DX Inverter machine with 4043 filler wire. I cannot stress to you the importance of the cleanliness of the fender and filler piece on both sides that your putting in.One little speck of dirt or paint and it all goes to sh-t.
Clean all surfaces on both sides with a stainless steel wire brush then some acetone to prep the surfaces.Use very low heat and start the pool on the thicker filler piece first because the fenders melt real quick.Good luck and take your time. Try a bunch of practice pieces first to find your comfort settings.
If all your going for is plugging up the moulding holes,I would recommend using fiberglass re-inforced body filler and flexable screen patch.Much cheaper and faster and probably better results. Ed
Clean all surfaces on both sides with a stainless steel wire brush then some acetone to prep the surfaces.Use very low heat and start the pool on the thicker filler piece first because the fenders melt real quick.Good luck and take your time. Try a bunch of practice pieces first to find your comfort settings.
If all your going for is plugging up the moulding holes,I would recommend using fiberglass re-inforced body filler and flexable screen patch.Much cheaper and faster and probably better results. Ed
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#11
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TIG, (tungsten inert gas usually Argon 100%) with AC (alternating current) is used for aluminum, If you are welding steel or stainless steel you would use DC (direct current with 75% argon and 25% co2) for that.
#13
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If you haven't used a TIG on aluminum, your 928 doors and front fender are not good pieces to learn on. A mistake will add more holes, tracks of slag, and warped panels from the excess heat. Consider hiring this part out, or go with a good reinforced filler after cratering the holes with a Body or ball pein hammer.
Last edited by dr bob; 04-08-2010 at 04:05 PM. Reason: Fixed it per DR... ;)
#14
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If you haven't used a TIG on aluminum, your 928 doors and front fender are NOT good pieces to learn on. A mistake will add more holes, tracks of slag, and warped panels from the excess heat. Consider hiring this part out, or go with a good reinforced filler after cratering the holes with a Body or ball pein hammer.
#15
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Just so we don't confuse the OP, don't use Stainless wire on the aluminum front fenders.. stainless and aluminum typically will only weld together with HIGH explosives.. ever seen Explosion Welding.. COOL STUFF!
Watch this!!
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Watch this!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldl6f...layer_embedded