83 EURO HATCH WON'T OPEN WITH KEY
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 2
From: Wendell, NC
83 EURO HATCH WON'T OPEN WITH KEY
Guys,
Bear with me for a little bit, as I don't have a 928 manual yet and I just got the car a few days ago. The hatch will not open with the key I was provided. I think the hatch may have been replaced at some time. Is there a way to open the hatch from the inside of the latch behind the tool tray? I have an '83 Euro, so I don't think it has an electric hatch release, but it might. There are 2 dials by the e-brake. The rear **** is for the headlights and the front has no **** on the switch shaft. Is this a hatch release? I tired turning it with pliers and nothing happened. Any suggestions before I just punch the tumbler? Thanks,
Bear with me for a little bit, as I don't have a 928 manual yet and I just got the car a few days ago. The hatch will not open with the key I was provided. I think the hatch may have been replaced at some time. Is there a way to open the hatch from the inside of the latch behind the tool tray? I have an '83 Euro, so I don't think it has an electric hatch release, but it might. There are 2 dials by the e-brake. The rear **** is for the headlights and the front has no **** on the switch shaft. Is this a hatch release? I tired turning it with pliers and nothing happened. Any suggestions before I just punch the tumbler? Thanks,
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 2
From: Wendell, NC
O.K. I tried a different search after posting this thread and found methods for opening. I am leaving it up as I would like to know if the forward **** by the e-brake is for a hatch release. Anybody know? Again, it is an 83 euro. Thanks,
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 9,337
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
NOT a hatch release. That is the fader for the original stereo (that is probably NOT in the car anymore). No electric hatch release on early cars...sorry. Might need to do some rekeying it sounds like.
Keep in mind if things are working correctly, when the hatch is open all your interior lights will be on...battery won't last long with the hatch open all the time and all the lights blazing.
Keep in mind if things are working correctly, when the hatch is open all your interior lights will be on...battery won't last long with the hatch open all the time and all the lights blazing.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 2
From: Wendell, NC
The key goes into the lock, but won't turn. I should have said that. The PO had a battery switch installed, so I keep it turned off when I park it. May have to get a hatch cylinder rekeyed to existing key. I am already experiencing electrical gremlins. I drove it around the condos today and for a while the e-brake light stayed on. Turned car off, back on, and it went off. Then the fan blower was on low...all of a sudden it went on high and would not adjust speed until i turned it off and turned it back on. I hope this is just from sitting and now going back into use. Thanks,
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,162
Likes: 383
From: Johnson City, TN
Hatch release was offered beginning in 1984. I've got four cars with them and none work quite right. Yet.
Its possible, actually pretty easy, to either rekey or adjust the lock to fit the key.
As Bill Ball taught us with his posts, a little wear combined between key and tumblers can cause one or more of the tumblers to stand slightly proud and then it won't open. He has some really good posts about the hatch lock. He found a problem with the alarm piece, too, I think. The basic lock is 5 sets of tumblers, 2 per set. The alarm feature adds 2 more sets of 2, actuated by the end section of the key.
Sometimes they will turn one way, not the other, just due to the wear profile within. I have some pictures and one still disassembled if you need to see more views.
Also, if somebody jammed the wrong key, especially a standard key, into the lock, the little tumblers will get an edge that prevents them from properly moving inside the barrel. Also a bad thing. Correctable, though, by disassembling and cleaning them up with some 400 and 600 black sandpaper.
If you can all the last owner and get his input, it might save some hassle, at least some uncertainty, though. It would be nice to know if that particular key ever worked that lock.
You can open the hatch via long thin flatheaded screwdriver from inside the car. The motion is a straight back push, or impact tap, on the white plastic latch.
Its possible, actually pretty easy, to either rekey or adjust the lock to fit the key.
As Bill Ball taught us with his posts, a little wear combined between key and tumblers can cause one or more of the tumblers to stand slightly proud and then it won't open. He has some really good posts about the hatch lock. He found a problem with the alarm piece, too, I think. The basic lock is 5 sets of tumblers, 2 per set. The alarm feature adds 2 more sets of 2, actuated by the end section of the key.
Sometimes they will turn one way, not the other, just due to the wear profile within. I have some pictures and one still disassembled if you need to see more views.
Also, if somebody jammed the wrong key, especially a standard key, into the lock, the little tumblers will get an edge that prevents them from properly moving inside the barrel. Also a bad thing. Correctable, though, by disassembling and cleaning them up with some 400 and 600 black sandpaper.
If you can all the last owner and get his input, it might save some hassle, at least some uncertainty, though. It would be nice to know if that particular key ever worked that lock.
You can open the hatch via long thin flatheaded screwdriver from inside the car. The motion is a straight back push, or impact tap, on the white plastic latch.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 2
From: Wendell, NC
Thanks for the info, guys. I am in the process of getting a set of manuals and I have already ordered a parts list. Definitely a must have...the manual set I bought for my 951 came with a parts list book and a Haynes manual, so It was a little easier to start looking at things. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but don't want to break anything by not having a picture to get an accurate idea of how things go together.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 2
From: Wendell, NC
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,162
Likes: 383
From: Johnson City, TN
No oil. Needs to work without it, plus will get on your clothes. Maybe some silicon dielectric grease if you absolutely want to try lubrication. But lubrication and flushing hasn't helped the bunch I've worked.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 9,337
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
I only use graphite on locks at the house, but have never had to use that on a car lock, but if I had a lock that was not working well I would rub graphite on the key and then insert it several times to see if that would help... no liquids in key holes...
