Hatch Adjustment Wits End
04-02-2010, 08:27 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hatch Adjustment Wits End
Okay- I have been through search and looked at all of the posts.
I have replaced the liner with Jerry Feather's ABS liner
I have replaced the latch plastic piece and spring in the top with new parts from Roger (getting it out was a bear and put a tiny crack in the housing) did it on the bench but pounding with a punch stressed it a little too much.
I have adjusted the motor so the arm is oriented according to the post I found here that shows in pictures how to set the arm on the motor.
The motor cycles fully every time I pull the release.
I have turned the rubber stops all the way in and the adjusted them back until they just kiss the bottom.
I have taken the spacer out of the hatch receiver that was in there and put it back. Makes no difference
I have adjusted the side rubber supports (on the side of the hatch half way to the roof) all the way down.
I have taken the latch out and put it in the receiver and tried to adjust the motor up and down to see if it will pop out. No joy.
Before the liner replacement, it worked flawlessly every time and didn't squeak.
So, I am looking for some help. Any thoughts.
Thanks,
I have replaced the liner with Jerry Feather's ABS liner
I have replaced the latch plastic piece and spring in the top with new parts from Roger (getting it out was a bear and put a tiny crack in the housing) did it on the bench but pounding with a punch stressed it a little too much.
I have adjusted the motor so the arm is oriented according to the post I found here that shows in pictures how to set the arm on the motor.
The motor cycles fully every time I pull the release.
I have turned the rubber stops all the way in and the adjusted them back until they just kiss the bottom.
I have taken the spacer out of the hatch receiver that was in there and put it back. Makes no difference
I have adjusted the side rubber supports (on the side of the hatch half way to the roof) all the way down.
I have taken the latch out and put it in the receiver and tried to adjust the motor up and down to see if it will pop out. No joy.
Before the liner replacement, it worked flawlessly every time and didn't squeak.
So, I am looking for some help. Any thoughts.
Thanks,
04-02-2010, 09:05 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Hi Jeff: I wish I had more to offer, but I doubt that I do. At this point I take it that your hatch will latch,l but weill not release by way of the remote switches by the door sills. If that is the case I also take it that the hatch would release remotely before you put the new liner in. I have to wonder what was in the receiver before you put the new liner in? Was there any remains of the original liner; or was there something else in there to take up the space that is now filled with the new liner?
Even if you answer all of this I don't have a clue as to how the new liner could affect the remote release function. Yet, logic is going to suggest that you should look just there--at the last thing you did before the remote release quit working.
Is the plastic spring loaded pusher inside the receiver still free to move up and down? Does the latch lock inside the receiver when you put them together seperate from the hatch? Can you post a picture of the liner inside the receiver?
Jerry Feather
Even if you answer all of this I don't have a clue as to how the new liner could affect the remote release function. Yet, logic is going to suggest that you should look just there--at the last thing you did before the remote release quit working.
Is the plastic spring loaded pusher inside the receiver still free to move up and down? Does the latch lock inside the receiver when you put them together seperate from the hatch? Can you post a picture of the liner inside the receiver?
Jerry Feather
04-02-2010, 09:07 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
Try a some white lithium grease on the contacting points.
I recall, perhaps incorrectly, that the receiver position could be adjusted. Take a look at that.
I recall, perhaps incorrectly, that the receiver position could be adjusted. Take a look at that.
04-02-2010, 10:31 PM
#4
Team Owner
Jeff what is the problem??
Does the latch not latch?? If so try lowering the motor a bit so the push piece isnt in view in the female portion of the reciever if still no joy try adding a piece of zip tie to the rear edge of the male part this tilts it forward so it will latch
Does the latch not latch?? If so try lowering the motor a bit so the push piece isnt in view in the female portion of the reciever if still no joy try adding a piece of zip tie to the rear edge of the male part this tilts it forward so it will latch
04-02-2010, 10:33 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here are the three photos I took.
You can see the button (and spring) are intact in the receiver.
The latch is new.
The hatch latches perfectly.
The little arm goes up and down when you actuate the remote release (on both sides of the car).
When the little arm goes up and down, the catch in the receiver moves in and out also.
Here is a question, can you adjust how much the little release in the latch receiver moves in any other way than moving the latch receiver mechanism up and down? Perhaps that little release thingy isn't moving or pulling away enough to release the latch?
I am pretty mechanically inclined, a timing belt job, intake refresh and the like are in my level of ability. I have changed engines, put in new clutches, etc so you can understand why something like this is making me crazy.
I must have moved the latch receiver mechanism up and down 50 times today in 1 mm increments to see if that is the ticket.
Lubed the whole deal up with other than white lithium. I'll clean everything off and start again and lube it with white lithium Saturday.
Thoughts?
You can see the button (and spring) are intact in the receiver.
The latch is new.
The hatch latches perfectly.
The little arm goes up and down when you actuate the remote release (on both sides of the car).
When the little arm goes up and down, the catch in the receiver moves in and out also.
Here is a question, can you adjust how much the little release in the latch receiver moves in any other way than moving the latch receiver mechanism up and down? Perhaps that little release thingy isn't moving or pulling away enough to release the latch?
I am pretty mechanically inclined, a timing belt job, intake refresh and the like are in my level of ability. I have changed engines, put in new clutches, etc so you can understand why something like this is making me crazy.
I must have moved the latch receiver mechanism up and down 50 times today in 1 mm increments to see if that is the ticket.
Lubed the whole deal up with other than white lithium. I'll clean everything off and start again and lube it with white lithium Saturday.
Thoughts?
04-02-2010, 10:44 PM
#6
Jeff,
I attach a combined series of post on hatch adjustments and laching adjustments. I hope that it helps.
If the new hatch lock mechanism is installed correctly you should be able to close the hatch without slamming, the key unlock and the cam unlock mechanism should work correctly, the hatch should be correctly in line with the gaps between the body and the hatch even on all sides and the hatch should not make any rattling or squeaking noises nor come unlatched when driving.
The following is a systematic method of installing a new latching mechanism or adjusting a old one and it can be undertaken without assistance.
When adjusting the closed position of the hatch, the bumpers should be fully screwed in initially and the side guides should be released or removed.
To save excessive work in adjusting the latching mechanism by opening and closing the hatch I recommend that the initial work be undertaken with the hatch fully opened.
The latching mechanism should be tested for fit with the receiver (female) mechanism removed from the body of the car and hand latched to the male mechanism by pushing it onto the upper mechanism by hand.
This procedure allows the electric operated cam to be held out of the way by the pushrod, so that it does on have any influence on the key operated latching mechanism whilst you check its correct operation and latching to the female mechanism.
If it is too hard to get it the key operated mechanism to latch there are 2 possible reasons reasons,
1. the new rubber insert is too big or if it is an old shimmed out insert is used, the shim could be too thick, and
2. the the key operated nylon latch is too worn or it fulcrum pin is worn causing the nylon latch not to fully catch under the receivers fixed latch receiver.
As you are using a new upper and lower hatch locking mechanism all should be OK, but as previously advised by Roger in another post not all new parts function correctly. By undertaking this procedure you can check all the key latching mechanism as well at the correct fit of rubber insert and its clearance.
If the female section of the latch is too snug on the male section you may have to remove some of the ribs thichness off the aft section of the insert, so that you get the correct insertion depth for the correct latching.
If this hand testing key operation is OK, as it should be with the new upper and lower hatch mechanisms, you can now test the cam operation release by hand by pulling down on the push rod to get the cam to release the nylon latch.
If the cam does not push the the latch sufficient to release then you have a problem with the new items.
One fix for this has been described to get a greater arc of influence by the cam is by fitting a couple of nylon ties around the cam. Once you have the female part latching and unlatching correctly you can now again test the key operated unlocking mechanism thereby ensuring that the both unlocking system work satisfactorily, and they are not too stiff and the lower female receiver should "pop off" the upper tongue into you hand. When you release the latch by key or cam be sure you catch the receiver as it will really "pop" off the male section due to the spring loaded nylon piston in the receiver.
If the key is too stiff then more silicone spray lubrication maybe required onto and around the key mechanism. If it still does not "pop off" the male section I have found that sometimes the rubber insert can jam the lower receiver's nylon spring loaded piston release mechanism.
If this is the case then some "relief" maybe need to be made at the bottom of the aft inner section of the rubber insert to give clearance.
By undertaking these tests, by hand, you individually test each system and can really see and feel whether the total system is operating as designed, with out the PITA of shutting and opening the hatch lid and working blind.
Now fit the lower receiver into the car without any shims under the flange. I would suggest just nippin up the 4 allen headed set bolts, so that there is a small amount of friction present, which allows the male and female sections to self align when the hatch is closed and remain in their alligned position.
Now open the hatch using the key and tighten the set bolts. When fitting the female mechanism to the body it is imperative that no aft pressure is applied to the upper male mechanism via the lower mechanism being too far in the aft position, otherwise you could crack the sides of the tongue of the male mechanism. All the pressure on the male section should be applied by the ribbed aft section of the female receptacle.
One suggested fix for assisting the unlocking cam alignment is to a shim under the after side of the flange of the male tongue to bring the nylon unlocking piece more under the arc of influence of the electrical operated unlocking cam. This fix will work initially however, there will be too much aft force applied to the male mechanism with the result of cracking the sides sections. I have developed a repair for these cracks, but it is still under test in my car (Now over 2 year since I did the repair and it is still good).
You can now test the latching of the hatch in situ to see whether it catches without the need to slam the hatch closed. If it closes correctly and can be opened by the key easily it should "pop up" a few millimetres under pressure of the receiver spring. If it does not "pot up "then the receiver's spring loaded nylon piece may be jamming and need some lubrication or added clearance.
When the hatch is locking and unlocking correctly, you can now adjust the bumpers to set the hatch edges to align with the body to get an even gap between the hatch and the trunk body. Adjustment should be by small increments otherwise you may jam the key operated latch into the lock position, as the force to close the hatch increase the more you adjust the bumpers. This adjustment is a trade off in alignment and closing force required.
If the gap is too small between the after edge of the hatch and the body after adjustment of the bumper, then full width shims can be added under the flange of the female receptacle to get the gap acceptable. If shimming is undertaken then you will have to readjust the bumpers.
When you are happy with the closing force, alignment and the pressure require to turn the key to open the hatch, you then adjust the position of the motor operated opening cam as per the WSM. When operated by the pull switches it should "pop" the hatch up a few millimetres (as previously described) and when the switch is release the electric motor should continue to operate to park it in the correct position.
If the latch does not "pop" the hatch after all of the above then the alignment of the two hatch locking mechanisms is slightly out and should be again re-aligned again as described above by just pinching up the set bolts, closing the hatch and then opening the hatch and fully torque up the set bolts.
When all of the above is working correctly you can now adjust the two side guides to ensure the hatch does on move from side to side when the car is driven.
Now you should now have a fully operating hatch locking and unlocking system as designed.
Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto
My previous message was based on the hatch being in its correct location within the body of the car and all gaps even. If it has moved aft then it will need to be relocated to its correct position before you install the latch locking sections to ensure they fit properly.
To allow for alignment of the locking mechanism, you will note that there is a certain amount of movement of the female and the male locking mechanisms where the flange sections bolt onto the body. This allows them to be moved in four directions, right, left, forward and aft, as well as being able to slightly twisting them around their axis. This movement will allow the male and female to self align as described above by using the nipped up set bolt method when the hatch is in its correct location.
To align the hatch within the body or the car I would remove the hatch locking mechanism completely, both male and female, remove the side guides and screw the two bumpers stoppers to their lowest position. You also should also remove the gas struts are they exert quite a bit of pressure on the hatch and could cause it to move if you have to release the hinge securing set bolts.
As the hatch is heavy you may require assistance locating it correctly with even gaps all around. When aligning the hatch you should firstly ensuring that the front of the hatch is parallel to the forward roof aperture line, the hatch is square to the centre line axis of the car with even gaps on both sides and that the forward height of the hatch is in alignment with the curve of the cabin top. Realignment can only be accomplished by slackening off the the set bolts on the forward landing of the hinges.
Be careful when you release the hinge set bolts, as there may be "E" shims under the forward sections of the hinges and also under the after sections, but I hope that you don't have to raise of lower the forward edge of the hatch to get its correct alignment to the cabin top.
Once the hatch is in alignment at the forward end and it should then be in alignment at either side you can use the bumper stoppers to set up the correct gap at the aft end between the hatch and the body. To assist you in the alignment of the hatch you may need to make a few soft wood wedges to maintain the correct gaps. Soft wood should not damage your paint work.
When this is done to your satisfaction, revert back to the previous procedure above for setting the hatch locking mechanism.
Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto
Note: Slackening the hinges will not mess with the front height of the hatch, as it should return the original height when retightened, however, the hatch could move aft with the force from the gas struts or move sideways messing up your side hatch gap alignment. Before slackening off the forward hatch hinge set bolts I would recommend removing the gas struts. To do this you will need to open the hatch and support it with a "soft broom" placed under the hatch in the fully opened position by placing the broom's soft end under the rear edge of the hatch, not on the glass, or cut two pieces of timber to fit at the left and right hand aft corners of the hatch or have a friend hold up the hatch while you remove the gas struts. (Safety warning: The hatch is very heavy so ensure that it is correctly and safely supported. (Another pair of hand maybe very useful here).
By adding or removing shims the height can be adjusted.
The forward hinge landing shims can be used to either lift or lower the forward edge of the hatch, i.e., removing shims from the forward landing of the hinge will raise the forward edge of the hatch and adding shims will lower the forward edge of the hatch. If there are no shims under the forward hatch hinge landing then to raise the hatch you would have to add shims under the aft hinge landing.
2. To move the hatch forward, I would:
a) Remove the latching mechanisms from the hatch and the body (male and female)
b) set the gap at the aft end with the aft bump stop adjusters.
c) to maintain the side gaps I would adjust the two side hatch guide pieces so that they prevent the hatch from moving sideways.
d) With the hatch in the closed position slacken back one set bolt at a time and then retighten slightly to just to touch the hatch hinge to hold it in position. Do this to the 4 forward set bolts on the two hinges.
e) Now move the hatch forward to get the correct gap at the forward end or to get it in alignment with the aft end of the body. There may be a trade of here as the forward gap should be the same as the side gaps, but this may mean that the alignment of the aft edge of the hatch could be a little too far forward or aft. This will be your judgement call. To make the movement of the hatch lid easier you may need to give the hatch rubber seal, the bump stoppers and the side guide pieces a spray with silicon lubricant.
f) now move the hatch forward, mindful that it is very heavy. You may have to use a lever, some soft wood by wedging the end into the empty female body aperture, lower the hatch onto the wood and apply leverage in a forward direction (some rag wrapped around the wood would give added protection to the hatch's paint). If the hatch does not move you may need a second pair of hand to go inside the cabin and slacken off the set bolts until they are just clear of the hinge landing.
g) When the hatch is in the desire position tighten up the set bolt and check the alignment and gaps etc.
The number of persons that you will ultimately use will be your decision, however, you will be in charge of their safety, If you are working under the lid without the gas struts installed you need to exercise extreme care (I had a friend killed when a heavy hinge hatch fell and jammed his head), so be very carefully. As a good rule, when you have your supports in place to hold the hatch open without the gas struts - double them up so that you have 100% redundancy factor and make sure they are held in position so the will not be dislodged if knocked.
3. The ends of the gas struts have a spherical cap that fits onto the spherical ended body and hatch pivot pins. The cap pieces are held and locked in position by a spring steel "C" cap. To remove the struts get a small screw drive and push the tang under the top of the "C" cap and lever it up onto the cap end until you can pull the cap off the spherical ended pin. Very simple to do. Don't remove the "C" cap off the end of the cap as it will be quite difficult to get back on.
On reinstallation it is just a matter of putting a small amount of grease inside the caps, attach the static end to the body pin and push the "C" cap back into it locking position.
Now with the hatch end push the gas strut in with a little force on the end of the gas strut, move it into position and push onto the hatch spherical pin and push the "C" cap locking piece home.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
I attach a combined series of post on hatch adjustments and laching adjustments. I hope that it helps.
If the new hatch lock mechanism is installed correctly you should be able to close the hatch without slamming, the key unlock and the cam unlock mechanism should work correctly, the hatch should be correctly in line with the gaps between the body and the hatch even on all sides and the hatch should not make any rattling or squeaking noises nor come unlatched when driving.
The following is a systematic method of installing a new latching mechanism or adjusting a old one and it can be undertaken without assistance.
When adjusting the closed position of the hatch, the bumpers should be fully screwed in initially and the side guides should be released or removed.
To save excessive work in adjusting the latching mechanism by opening and closing the hatch I recommend that the initial work be undertaken with the hatch fully opened.
The latching mechanism should be tested for fit with the receiver (female) mechanism removed from the body of the car and hand latched to the male mechanism by pushing it onto the upper mechanism by hand.
This procedure allows the electric operated cam to be held out of the way by the pushrod, so that it does on have any influence on the key operated latching mechanism whilst you check its correct operation and latching to the female mechanism.
If it is too hard to get it the key operated mechanism to latch there are 2 possible reasons reasons,
1. the new rubber insert is too big or if it is an old shimmed out insert is used, the shim could be too thick, and
2. the the key operated nylon latch is too worn or it fulcrum pin is worn causing the nylon latch not to fully catch under the receivers fixed latch receiver.
As you are using a new upper and lower hatch locking mechanism all should be OK, but as previously advised by Roger in another post not all new parts function correctly. By undertaking this procedure you can check all the key latching mechanism as well at the correct fit of rubber insert and its clearance.
If the female section of the latch is too snug on the male section you may have to remove some of the ribs thichness off the aft section of the insert, so that you get the correct insertion depth for the correct latching.
If this hand testing key operation is OK, as it should be with the new upper and lower hatch mechanisms, you can now test the cam operation release by hand by pulling down on the push rod to get the cam to release the nylon latch.
If the cam does not push the the latch sufficient to release then you have a problem with the new items.
One fix for this has been described to get a greater arc of influence by the cam is by fitting a couple of nylon ties around the cam. Once you have the female part latching and unlatching correctly you can now again test the key operated unlocking mechanism thereby ensuring that the both unlocking system work satisfactorily, and they are not too stiff and the lower female receiver should "pop off" the upper tongue into you hand. When you release the latch by key or cam be sure you catch the receiver as it will really "pop" off the male section due to the spring loaded nylon piston in the receiver.
If the key is too stiff then more silicone spray lubrication maybe required onto and around the key mechanism. If it still does not "pop off" the male section I have found that sometimes the rubber insert can jam the lower receiver's nylon spring loaded piston release mechanism.
If this is the case then some "relief" maybe need to be made at the bottom of the aft inner section of the rubber insert to give clearance.
By undertaking these tests, by hand, you individually test each system and can really see and feel whether the total system is operating as designed, with out the PITA of shutting and opening the hatch lid and working blind.
Now fit the lower receiver into the car without any shims under the flange. I would suggest just nippin up the 4 allen headed set bolts, so that there is a small amount of friction present, which allows the male and female sections to self align when the hatch is closed and remain in their alligned position.
Now open the hatch using the key and tighten the set bolts. When fitting the female mechanism to the body it is imperative that no aft pressure is applied to the upper male mechanism via the lower mechanism being too far in the aft position, otherwise you could crack the sides of the tongue of the male mechanism. All the pressure on the male section should be applied by the ribbed aft section of the female receptacle.
One suggested fix for assisting the unlocking cam alignment is to a shim under the after side of the flange of the male tongue to bring the nylon unlocking piece more under the arc of influence of the electrical operated unlocking cam. This fix will work initially however, there will be too much aft force applied to the male mechanism with the result of cracking the sides sections. I have developed a repair for these cracks, but it is still under test in my car (Now over 2 year since I did the repair and it is still good).
You can now test the latching of the hatch in situ to see whether it catches without the need to slam the hatch closed. If it closes correctly and can be opened by the key easily it should "pop up" a few millimetres under pressure of the receiver spring. If it does not "pot up "then the receiver's spring loaded nylon piece may be jamming and need some lubrication or added clearance.
When the hatch is locking and unlocking correctly, you can now adjust the bumpers to set the hatch edges to align with the body to get an even gap between the hatch and the trunk body. Adjustment should be by small increments otherwise you may jam the key operated latch into the lock position, as the force to close the hatch increase the more you adjust the bumpers. This adjustment is a trade off in alignment and closing force required.
If the gap is too small between the after edge of the hatch and the body after adjustment of the bumper, then full width shims can be added under the flange of the female receptacle to get the gap acceptable. If shimming is undertaken then you will have to readjust the bumpers.
When you are happy with the closing force, alignment and the pressure require to turn the key to open the hatch, you then adjust the position of the motor operated opening cam as per the WSM. When operated by the pull switches it should "pop" the hatch up a few millimetres (as previously described) and when the switch is release the electric motor should continue to operate to park it in the correct position.
If the latch does not "pop" the hatch after all of the above then the alignment of the two hatch locking mechanisms is slightly out and should be again re-aligned again as described above by just pinching up the set bolts, closing the hatch and then opening the hatch and fully torque up the set bolts.
When all of the above is working correctly you can now adjust the two side guides to ensure the hatch does on move from side to side when the car is driven.
Now you should now have a fully operating hatch locking and unlocking system as designed.
Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto
My previous message was based on the hatch being in its correct location within the body of the car and all gaps even. If it has moved aft then it will need to be relocated to its correct position before you install the latch locking sections to ensure they fit properly.
To allow for alignment of the locking mechanism, you will note that there is a certain amount of movement of the female and the male locking mechanisms where the flange sections bolt onto the body. This allows them to be moved in four directions, right, left, forward and aft, as well as being able to slightly twisting them around their axis. This movement will allow the male and female to self align as described above by using the nipped up set bolt method when the hatch is in its correct location.
To align the hatch within the body or the car I would remove the hatch locking mechanism completely, both male and female, remove the side guides and screw the two bumpers stoppers to their lowest position. You also should also remove the gas struts are they exert quite a bit of pressure on the hatch and could cause it to move if you have to release the hinge securing set bolts.
As the hatch is heavy you may require assistance locating it correctly with even gaps all around. When aligning the hatch you should firstly ensuring that the front of the hatch is parallel to the forward roof aperture line, the hatch is square to the centre line axis of the car with even gaps on both sides and that the forward height of the hatch is in alignment with the curve of the cabin top. Realignment can only be accomplished by slackening off the the set bolts on the forward landing of the hinges.
Be careful when you release the hinge set bolts, as there may be "E" shims under the forward sections of the hinges and also under the after sections, but I hope that you don't have to raise of lower the forward edge of the hatch to get its correct alignment to the cabin top.
Once the hatch is in alignment at the forward end and it should then be in alignment at either side you can use the bumper stoppers to set up the correct gap at the aft end between the hatch and the body. To assist you in the alignment of the hatch you may need to make a few soft wood wedges to maintain the correct gaps. Soft wood should not damage your paint work.
When this is done to your satisfaction, revert back to the previous procedure above for setting the hatch locking mechanism.
Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto
Note: Slackening the hinges will not mess with the front height of the hatch, as it should return the original height when retightened, however, the hatch could move aft with the force from the gas struts or move sideways messing up your side hatch gap alignment. Before slackening off the forward hatch hinge set bolts I would recommend removing the gas struts. To do this you will need to open the hatch and support it with a "soft broom" placed under the hatch in the fully opened position by placing the broom's soft end under the rear edge of the hatch, not on the glass, or cut two pieces of timber to fit at the left and right hand aft corners of the hatch or have a friend hold up the hatch while you remove the gas struts. (Safety warning: The hatch is very heavy so ensure that it is correctly and safely supported. (Another pair of hand maybe very useful here).
By adding or removing shims the height can be adjusted.
The forward hinge landing shims can be used to either lift or lower the forward edge of the hatch, i.e., removing shims from the forward landing of the hinge will raise the forward edge of the hatch and adding shims will lower the forward edge of the hatch. If there are no shims under the forward hatch hinge landing then to raise the hatch you would have to add shims under the aft hinge landing.
2. To move the hatch forward, I would:
a) Remove the latching mechanisms from the hatch and the body (male and female)
b) set the gap at the aft end with the aft bump stop adjusters.
c) to maintain the side gaps I would adjust the two side hatch guide pieces so that they prevent the hatch from moving sideways.
d) With the hatch in the closed position slacken back one set bolt at a time and then retighten slightly to just to touch the hatch hinge to hold it in position. Do this to the 4 forward set bolts on the two hinges.
e) Now move the hatch forward to get the correct gap at the forward end or to get it in alignment with the aft end of the body. There may be a trade of here as the forward gap should be the same as the side gaps, but this may mean that the alignment of the aft edge of the hatch could be a little too far forward or aft. This will be your judgement call. To make the movement of the hatch lid easier you may need to give the hatch rubber seal, the bump stoppers and the side guide pieces a spray with silicon lubricant.
f) now move the hatch forward, mindful that it is very heavy. You may have to use a lever, some soft wood by wedging the end into the empty female body aperture, lower the hatch onto the wood and apply leverage in a forward direction (some rag wrapped around the wood would give added protection to the hatch's paint). If the hatch does not move you may need a second pair of hand to go inside the cabin and slacken off the set bolts until they are just clear of the hinge landing.
g) When the hatch is in the desire position tighten up the set bolt and check the alignment and gaps etc.
The number of persons that you will ultimately use will be your decision, however, you will be in charge of their safety, If you are working under the lid without the gas struts installed you need to exercise extreme care (I had a friend killed when a heavy hinge hatch fell and jammed his head), so be very carefully. As a good rule, when you have your supports in place to hold the hatch open without the gas struts - double them up so that you have 100% redundancy factor and make sure they are held in position so the will not be dislodged if knocked.
3. The ends of the gas struts have a spherical cap that fits onto the spherical ended body and hatch pivot pins. The cap pieces are held and locked in position by a spring steel "C" cap. To remove the struts get a small screw drive and push the tang under the top of the "C" cap and lever it up onto the cap end until you can pull the cap off the spherical ended pin. Very simple to do. Don't remove the "C" cap off the end of the cap as it will be quite difficult to get back on.
On reinstallation it is just a matter of putting a small amount of grease inside the caps, attach the static end to the body pin and push the "C" cap back into it locking position.
Now with the hatch end push the gas strut in with a little force on the end of the gas strut, move it into position and push onto the hatch spherical pin and push the "C" cap locking piece home.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
04-03-2010, 12:23 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Tails-
Thank you so much. I look forward to tackling this project Saturday. I am sure it is a matter of mm that I have to get things aligned and your detailed guide will surely be the ticket.
Whew!
Thank you so much. I look forward to tackling this project Saturday. I am sure it is a matter of mm that I have to get things aligned and your detailed guide will surely be the ticket.
Whew!
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04-04-2010, 12:10 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Okay so I took tails advice and I now have a perfectly sorted hatch. Perfect alignment, body spaces are even and it pops just right. I found yet another very thin spacer under the thick spacer and along with putting the zip ties on the cam to effectively increase the throw the hatch pops and latches great.
I may have to see after some really bumpy roads if there are any squeaks or rattles but right now it is perfect.
Now on to the next project, the sill Illumination
I may have to see after some really bumpy roads if there are any squeaks or rattles but right now it is perfect.
Now on to the next project, the sill Illumination
04-04-2010, 12:24 AM
#9
Jeff,
Great news, glad I could help.
For your information I fabricated my insert many year ago before the new moulded one became available. Cost $2 for a nylon bread board and my time.
Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto
Great news, glad I could help.
For your information I fabricated my insert many year ago before the new moulded one became available. Cost $2 for a nylon bread board and my time.
Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto
04-14-2010, 08:07 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Hey Guys,
Working with Jerry here to resolve my remote hatch release problems.
Bought his insert and it was a piece of cake to install..........highly recommended!
Take a look at this picture and tell me if you think the plastic mechanism looks proper. To my eye, it looks worn on that top edge but I have no new one here by which to compare it to.
Just want to be sure I am not putting a bandaid on a worn out part before I start messing with the adjustment.
Cheers and Thanx!
Bernie
Working with Jerry here to resolve my remote hatch release problems.
Bought his insert and it was a piece of cake to install..........highly recommended!
Take a look at this picture and tell me if you think the plastic mechanism looks proper. To my eye, it looks worn on that top edge but I have no new one here by which to compare it to.
Just want to be sure I am not putting a bandaid on a worn out part before I start messing with the adjustment.
Cheers and Thanx!
Bernie
04-14-2010, 08:22 PM
#13
Bernie,
From the photograph it looks OK.
Try its operation out of the car as described in my post #6 above. If it releases OK with the crank and the key then install as described.
If it does not release correctly when installed and you cannot get it to operate correctly, then you also have the option of putting some zip ties around the plastic release thereby increasing it arc of influence or insert a small "thin" piece of plastic behing the aft side of the plastic insert in the female receptical.
If you elect to do this make sure that you do not put pressure on the male piece "in the aft direction" otherwise you will increase the stress on the male mechanism and this could cause the sides of the mechanism to crack.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
From the photograph it looks OK.
Try its operation out of the car as described in my post #6 above. If it releases OK with the crank and the key then install as described.
If it does not release correctly when installed and you cannot get it to operate correctly, then you also have the option of putting some zip ties around the plastic release thereby increasing it arc of influence or insert a small "thin" piece of plastic behing the aft side of the plastic insert in the female receptical.
If you elect to do this make sure that you do not put pressure on the male piece "in the aft direction" otherwise you will increase the stress on the male mechanism and this could cause the sides of the mechanism to crack.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
04-14-2010, 08:32 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Works perfect with the key.
Pops up a few mm's just as it should.
However, the cam release mechanism doesn't seem like it is even close to popping it.
I'll try the zip tie trick
Thanx for looking
Pops up a few mm's just as it should.
However, the cam release mechanism doesn't seem like it is even close to popping it.
I'll try the zip tie trick
Thanx for looking
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Cymadesign (04-16-2021)
04-14-2010, 08:43 PM
#15
Bernie,
If the key release mechanism releases the hatch OK, then the problem may be with the adjustment of the electric motor crank adjustment.
Before adding the zip ties, adjust the motor along the slide by releasing the two securing bolts, as per the WSM. If this does not work then go to the zip ties.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
If the key release mechanism releases the hatch OK, then the problem may be with the adjustment of the electric motor crank adjustment.
Before adding the zip ties, adjust the motor along the slide by releasing the two securing bolts, as per the WSM. If this does not work then go to the zip ties.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
