New toy
Thanks for the comments. This bay (an addition in '08) and the lift are part of a 2-year garage "addition/beautification project" that I planned in '06 before I went to Baghdad for a year. ( I got the GT just after I returned, so I think you'll all agree that adding a 928 can also be considered part of a garage beautification project ! )
The bay is 22' long, 11' tall and not quite wide enough for a 2-post lift. I really wanted to have the stacking option, so the 4-post was the best (and by default, the only) choice for me. I can get get the 928 and 911 high enough so that I can stand straight up under the car w/o hitting the garage door opener (with the door closed). So stacking normal cars is not an issue. My Dodge Ram with the 20" wheel option even fits under it when the lift is all the way up (that's what the Plus model does for you), but with nothing on top, obviously, but it's nice to have that option available.
Yes, that is RaceDeck.
I got the lift from Greg Smith Equipment. All the pricing is online. I also got a Pro-Jack 3500 sliding jack, which works like a champ for getting the car up off the runways. I only got one, because it does take up a bit of working space between the runways. The lift comes with a jack tray as well, along with drip trays and casters for moving the lift around. It does not need to be bolted down and is very steady (it weighs in at ~2000lbs), although I probably will bolt it once I'm certain I have it exactly where I want it.
I had it delivered to a local trucking terminal (only $239 from DE to VA), where they forklifted it onto my trailer. Getting it off the trailer with no lifting equipment was much more of a challenge than the actual assembly, but we made it happen with a couple of sawhorses and a few dollies. All without back injuries and no damage to the parts (the left runway is 440lbs!).
The first project is a new steering rack and associated parts. It's hard to see, but there's a pile of power steering hoses and what not on the cabinet under the VW sign.... just waiting for the rack to arrive from 928Int. Thanks to Roger for providing the parts list and gathering them up for me.
The bay is 22' long, 11' tall and not quite wide enough for a 2-post lift. I really wanted to have the stacking option, so the 4-post was the best (and by default, the only) choice for me. I can get get the 928 and 911 high enough so that I can stand straight up under the car w/o hitting the garage door opener (with the door closed). So stacking normal cars is not an issue. My Dodge Ram with the 20" wheel option even fits under it when the lift is all the way up (that's what the Plus model does for you), but with nothing on top, obviously, but it's nice to have that option available.
Yes, that is RaceDeck.
I got the lift from Greg Smith Equipment. All the pricing is online. I also got a Pro-Jack 3500 sliding jack, which works like a champ for getting the car up off the runways. I only got one, because it does take up a bit of working space between the runways. The lift comes with a jack tray as well, along with drip trays and casters for moving the lift around. It does not need to be bolted down and is very steady (it weighs in at ~2000lbs), although I probably will bolt it once I'm certain I have it exactly where I want it.
I had it delivered to a local trucking terminal (only $239 from DE to VA), where they forklifted it onto my trailer. Getting it off the trailer with no lifting equipment was much more of a challenge than the actual assembly, but we made it happen with a couple of sawhorses and a few dollies. All without back injuries and no damage to the parts (the left runway is 440lbs!).
The first project is a new steering rack and associated parts. It's hard to see, but there's a pile of power steering hoses and what not on the cabinet under the VW sign.... just waiting for the rack to arrive from 928Int. Thanks to Roger for providing the parts list and gathering them up for me.
Ha! My floor is in same colors, including the red outline of the parking space. I have a smaller checker pattern (one tile instead of four) and have a drain in my floor, so the red tiles are flow-through tiles.
I also have the red stripe running around the walls. How wild is that?
I also have the red stripe running around the walls. How wild is that?
I really like the Greg Smith web page, very educational and much more detailed pictures and descriptions of the lifts than most. My favorite is the Direct Lift Pro 9F so far. I need a base plate 2 poster for my setup and that one looks pretty nice.
George,
I was considering one of these: Direct Lift Pro Park 8S
But, my ceiling is only 108”
Do you think I could stack two 928s under a 108” ceiling?
I would be grateful if you could use your lift to determine the lowest possible ceiling to stack two 928s. (The 82 is 49” and the 86.5 is 50”. The Supra is 52” so it probably won’t stack.)
Thanks in advance for any input.
I was considering one of these: Direct Lift Pro Park 8S
The bay is 22' long, 11' tall
So stacking normal cars is not an issue.
I would be grateful if you could use your lift to determine the lowest possible ceiling to stack two 928s. (The 82 is 49” and the 86.5 is 50”. The Supra is 52” so it probably won’t stack.)
Thanks in advance for any input.
Mark, You obvously have excellent taste in decor.
Denny,
This page gives you the locking position measurements for the PP8S lift.
The runways are 4 inches "thick", so if you look at the locking positions "under the runway", pick what you're comfortable with (I'd say 56" for either car considering the 2 inch variance), then add 4" for the runway, then the height of the second car.
So 56" plus 4" plus 49" with the '82 on top, and you get 109. The next lowest locking position is 50", but the slop is +/- 2", which is too close for comfort for the '82 on the bottom. So I think 108 might not work with that particular lift.
You need to go by the locking positions, because they're what the runways rest on, not the cable tension.
Make sense?
I plan to pull the car off tomorrow for a photo shoot (for my 928 watch certificate background), so I'll drive it under and measure the runway height for you.
Denny,
This page gives you the locking position measurements for the PP8S lift.
The runways are 4 inches "thick", so if you look at the locking positions "under the runway", pick what you're comfortable with (I'd say 56" for either car considering the 2 inch variance), then add 4" for the runway, then the height of the second car.
So 56" plus 4" plus 49" with the '82 on top, and you get 109. The next lowest locking position is 50", but the slop is +/- 2", which is too close for comfort for the '82 on the bottom. So I think 108 might not work with that particular lift.
You need to go by the locking positions, because they're what the runways rest on, not the cable tension.
Make sense?
I plan to pull the car off tomorrow for a photo shoot (for my 928 watch certificate background), so I'll drive it under and measure the runway height for you.
As much as I fear earthquakes, there must be 50,000 2 post lifts in California, and I don't recall hearing about mechanic squishings after major quakes. Maybe it's 'cause dead men don't tell tales, or mechanics learn to run like hell with the first bad vibes.... (?)
Just seems risky to me. No doubt the ones at professional garages are pretty heavy duty and well anchored to a heavily reinforced slab. Just saying I wouldn't want mine up on a light duty one at home when a 6.0 or over hit. Whether I was under it or not.
Mark, You obvously have excellent taste in decor.
Denny,
This page gives you the locking position measurements for the PP8S lift.
The runways are 4 inches "thick", so if you look at the locking positions "under the runway", pick what you're comfortable with (I'd say 56" for either car considering the 2 inch variance), then add 4" for the runway, then the height of the second car.
So 56" plus 4" plus 49" with the '82 on top, and you get 109. The next lowest locking position is 50", but the slop is +/- 2", which is too close for comfort for the '82 on the bottom. So I think 108 might not work with that particular lift.
You need to go by the locking positions, because they're what the runways rest on, not the cable tension.
Make sense?
I plan to pull the car off tomorrow for a photo shoot (for my 928 watch certificate background), so I'll drive it under and measure the runway height for you.
Denny,
This page gives you the locking position measurements for the PP8S lift.
The runways are 4 inches "thick", so if you look at the locking positions "under the runway", pick what you're comfortable with (I'd say 56" for either car considering the 2 inch variance), then add 4" for the runway, then the height of the second car.
So 56" plus 4" plus 49" with the '82 on top, and you get 109. The next lowest locking position is 50", but the slop is +/- 2", which is too close for comfort for the '82 on the bottom. So I think 108 might not work with that particular lift.
You need to go by the locking positions, because they're what the runways rest on, not the cable tension.
Make sense?
I plan to pull the car off tomorrow for a photo shoot (for my 928 watch certificate background), so I'll drive it under and measure the runway height for you.
Doesn't your lift have this?
The lock ladder system also provides an infinite number of runway locking positions. The “old-style” welded locks could not be adjusted. The lock ladder is adjustable inside the column so that our customers can “micro-manage” the correct runway height to accommodate any vehicle.
Also, how much "over travel" is required to "set / release" the locks?
I'd say an inch or two overtravel. You can monitor it pretty easily by watching the lock release lever.
The lock ladders are adjustable, maybe 4 inches or so. But, you'll use some of that adjustment just leveling the ladders. If you download the assembly instructions and go to the leveling section, it'll explain how that works. My right front ladder adjustment bolt has maybe 3 threads showing above the nut at the top of the column (and as the highest ladder, that was my reference during the adjustment), but my left rear is maxed all the way up to level everything out. Some of this may be the floor, but regardless, that takes up quite a bit of any adjustment slop I might have had to actually vary the height.
That writeup sort of implies that this is an easy process that you can do often, but it's kind of a PITA to get everything level - a level it once and be done with it proposition. I guess it depends on how you read it.
The lock ladders are adjustable, maybe 4 inches or so. But, you'll use some of that adjustment just leveling the ladders. If you download the assembly instructions and go to the leveling section, it'll explain how that works. My right front ladder adjustment bolt has maybe 3 threads showing above the nut at the top of the column (and as the highest ladder, that was my reference during the adjustment), but my left rear is maxed all the way up to level everything out. Some of this may be the floor, but regardless, that takes up quite a bit of any adjustment slop I might have had to actually vary the height.
That writeup sort of implies that this is an easy process that you can do often, but it's kind of a PITA to get everything level - a level it once and be done with it proposition. I guess it depends on how you read it.
Last edited by GeorgeM; Apr 1, 2010 at 01:28 PM.



