velocipus

Car is 1985 S3 US model (32 valve)

O.k... I've searched and searched, looked at diagrams and stared at the engine scratching my head (the one on my shoulders, not the ones in the engine bay.)

There is a slow leak of coolant into the spark plug tube of the #7 cylinder. I will fill with maybe an ounce of coolant over 150 - 200 miles. There is no coolant in the oil... it's not mixed with oil, just coolant.

I've tried to find a hole with flashlight and inspection mirror, but nothing is apparent, though I can't really get a good view. The valve cover is off and it's become apparent that the head will probably have to come off to figure out what's going on. I don't want to pull the head!

Have any of you experienced this?

Mrmerlin

if the plug well is filling with coolant then the head has either a bad casting or its cracked, so a new head will be needed

velocipus

sigh

Lizard928

I concure with Stan's diagnosis

Mrmerlin

note dont remove the spark plug and let coolant go into the cylinder

velocipus

Thanks for the heads up. I already sucked it up, sponged it out and used my girlfriend's hair dryer before pulling the plug.

Guess I'll be looking for a write-up on pulling the motor.
Time to take out a line of credit

Perfectly happy to search on my own, but if anyone feels like pointing me to a good write-up, I will be most grateful.

aaddpp

I thought the WSM had a pretty good write up on pulling the motor. Even with my limited knowledge most parts seemed fairly straight forward. I would also be interested in other threads on engine pulling since I am considering this for the Fall myself.

Dave

fraggle

I pulled my s4 motor last year. Just take your time.


I left the intake and most of the rest on there. It was a ton easier to take apart when it was sitting on the floor. If it didn't impede the lift, I left it on!

Have a good hoist and an engine leveler. You'll also need some uncommon bolts to bolt it to your stand, I can't remember the pitch off the top of my head, but someone will chime in. I bought a few from the local fastener place and did fine.

velocipus

Yes, It would be good to know what the bolt diameter/ pitch and length needed is.

I'm off to Harbor Freight tomorrow to pick up a folding engine stand... may as well add one to the tool collection. I can borrow a hoist from a cousin. Spent the day clearing the garage to make room for the job.

This should be interesting. I'll be sure to document the process.

Intake is already off. Discovered badly corroded thermostat housing today as well. I wonder what other surprises await the wrench and me

Lizard928

For bolting the motor to the engine stand you can take out 2 of the front a-arm bolts. (there are 2 on either side).
They are the perfect pitch/length for the engine stand!

Imo000

Before you pull the head, get a can of block sealer and follow the instructions. If done right, it will seal a leak like this (I had in the past but not on a 928) for good or at least for a while. BUT make sure to fully drain and flush the antifreez from the engine or else it won't work.

mark kibort

great idea for this kind of leak. try barrs stop leak. I used it for an entire race season and it stopped a head gasket leak in its tracks.

velocipus

Thank you!
My 65y.o. ex-mechanic father said, "if it were an American car, you could just use some block sealer." I chuckled when I asked him he thought it wouldn't work on the 928. He said, "well the Germans, have laws about what they can and can't put in their beer. Same goes for their cars I'm sure."

Nervous about pulling the drain plugs on the block... I have my breaker bar, liquid wrench and MAP torch (and fire extinguisher) at the ready. Will pick up Barrs this evening.

Imo000

Don't forget to bypass the heater core!!!!

velocipus

Pardon me for asking, but could you give me a tip on the best way to bypass?