Nicole

I did not notice it because of the size and the reflections of these pictures. But it shows that she has good taste.

Bill Ball

I just repaired a car that had the same headlight issue. The source of the problem was the Combination Headlight relay, a large relay on the right side of the central electric panel, occupying spots XXIII-XXIV. It may be that it is just not seated fully - it tends to come out of the upper pins. If you find this is true, bend the posts just a little so they grip the panel slots a bit better or put a piece of folded cardboard underneath it to support it. In the car I just dealt with, I removed the relay, pried carefully around the base of the cover to remove the cover, then cleaned all the relay contacts inside with electric contact cleaner spray. I reassembled the relay cover, firmly seated the relay in the panel, and the headlight began to work again as they should.

Bill Ball

As to the rear interior lights - make sure the lights are wired correctly. If the wiring is reversed on the switches, it creates a short when that light is rocked to the on position. It's easy to get the wires on the wrong spades. This will blow the interior fuse when the miswired lights are used. So, the lights will work fine until you try to turn on the miswired one, then the fuse blows. This fuse also affects the instrument pod gauges even though they have a separate fuse as well. Although your problem doesn't seem to exactly fit what I have said, it would be worthwhile to study the light switch wiring. Here is Wally's cogent interior light tutorial: http://www.nichols.nu/tip789.htm Spend a few minutes verifying the wiring and that power is coming to the light switches. On the other hand it may just be a worn our switch. You could try swapping a front switch to the rear.

So far, your electrical issues are relatively minor. I've seen FAR worse. Knock on the plywood central electric panel cover and consider yourself lucky.

blown 87

Good looking car and with the help here you can get everything going great again.

I will have to say I can not believe this is on the second page and no one has said "Pics of girlfriend" yet.

Vitalssj

Well i replaced the headlight switch. Still no go and i pushed in the relay all the way and still no go. Damn what the hell is stopping these headlights from going back down?

Ill have to check out the wiring for the interior lights come tomorrow lol

Bill Ball

You may have to open up the light relay as I did and clean the contacts, or replace it. It's an expensive relay, but you can get a good used one from 928Intl for $40 last time I looked.

Remember this car is over 20 years old. Expect a few gremlins have gotten into it. You'll need more patience if you are going to be able to live with it. Seriously, this is a very minor gremlin you are dealing with.

Vitalssj

Trust me i know its a minor gremlin lol. Its always the minor things that feel like the worst lol.

Well I forgot to mention i bought another relay and both of them don't fix the problem lol

So far ive ruled out the headlight switch, and relay.... Hmmm

Anyone have the schematic to jump the headlight switch or even better the relay so i can test if it is actually either of the two.

The relay has the diagram but i look at it and think wow chinese.... lol

Bill Ball

Well, sorry, that's as far as my experience goes with this headlight issue. It could be the contacts within the headlight motor itself and I understand they can be opened up and cleaned, but I've managed to avoid that. Hopefully someone else has some suggestions.

docmirror

Headlight motor:

Locate page 2, grid 5A. The box of the headlight motor. Above the motor symbol is the control cam for raising and lowering the headlamps. If the motor works in one direction, It'll prolly work in the other. Note the five pin connector. Pin 4 provides ground through the center wiper which is always on. We know this works because the motor will go up. Pins 2 and 3 from that connector cam complete the ground circuit through headlamp relay pins 565, and 30b1. One for up and one for down. Judging by the diagram which has 'out' going anti-clockwise, and 'in' going clockwise, the cam under pin 2 looks like it is an open circuit, not allowing the ground signal to complete and pick relay through pin 30b1. Investigate by seeking the open from MP1 ground point to pin 2 of the headlight motor connector with the headlights up. If you have it there, trace continuity from the harness end of pin 2 on that connector back to socket of 30b1 on the relay board. Or, it could be a mechanical position fault which is not allowing the cam to rest on pin 2 contactor track.

Coolant leak:

Very common. Old radiators with plastic end tanks. Take it to a radiator shop, they will put a pressure tester on the rad cap, and then use a high intensity light to locate the leak. It's usually on the end tank where the little metal tabs fold over. The seal inside degrades and drools. You can try to have it repaired with a new end tank and seal, or you can replace the rad. If you have the end tank replaced, get a shop that is skilled in replacing this style of end tank. You only get one try at bending the metal tabs and if it's screwed up that's it for the rad. Search on 'radiator repair' or 'end tank repair' for more info. It can also be a hose or clamp, but rad is most likely.

Lamp wiring:

This has been covered well already. Read the sticky at the top for general electrical maint. It is critical. If you choose to continue, page 2 grid 9M/N is the location of door contactor trunk lid. Just disconnect the wires to it, and see if you problems go a way. If so, you'll have to start chasing the ground signal propagation from that switch through the connector at grid 10L/M and 10K. These go through the rubber boot at the pax side hatch up near the hinge, and connector inside the roof. It's a complete pain, and often there are corrosion and shorts that get in these connectors and wires.

Nicole mentions that the light sockets themselves distort and develop shorts too. The wires on the connector also play a role and can cause a short, so get it right. The brown wires, or brown with a trace will always go on the switch end of the lamp. Brown is always ground, and brown with a trace is usually switched ground. Most of the times, it's the switched ground that comes to grief somewhere. The lamp wiring up through the A pillar to the front visor lamp is always bad.

Tracing this **** is time consuming but not complicated. Use a pencil and check each switched ground signal for shorts with the door pin disconnected. For example at grid 10K, the connector pin 5 is a brown with white trace(br/ws). That serves the two trunk lamps, the rear roof lamp, and it leaves the sheet at grid 10M, and goes to the 'hatchback unlocking control motors' at grid N13. Sigh,,,,, So, if that ground is not present(hatch open) theoretically the hatch opening motor will not run. I never tested it, but that's what the schematic says.

docmirror

Am I the only one that sees the shadow specter of long dead Ferry Porsche in that first night picture? It looks like he was checking out the engine bay, and quickly ran behind the hood, but we got him on film!(er, electrons) oooooohhhhhhhh,, skeery man.

mickster

you see dead people...

Rick3452

another 928/GTO owner...... welcome....

Vitalssj

Thanks! Nice GTO there got any pics of her?