chewy8000

So a few weeks ago I posted a thread about having the temp time switch and temp II sensor connectors accidentlly backwards for the last 3 years and horrible cold start issues for obvious reasons!

The last couple months with the connectors corrected I have been enjoying trouble free cold starts. Today I started it up no problems reved up to idle for about a minute then I shut it off because a friend was on the phone getting drowned by the rumble. No big deal waited 5 minutes went to start and it fires up now for about 4 seconds and stalls? Did this for the rest of the day. fire up for a few seconds and stalls. Could the temp II sensor be fryed from the misconnection with the temp time switch?

dimmer

I can't see damaging the temp sensors by hooking them up backwards ... plus they were working fine for months after.
Kinda sounds like you might not be getting fuel. fuel filter? fuel pump? computer? bad fuel?

Mrmerlin

where is your temp II sensor located??.
I would suggest to pull the plug of and measure the voltage if there is any if its over 5volts then you may not have to wires correctly connected a picture of your connection would be most helpful

Lizard928

Stan, this is on an L-Jet car. So temp sensor is on the water bridge above the thermostat.
Thermo time switch is on the front parallel to the ground. And the dash sender is just behind the temp sensor.

Tristan,
Try starting the car and giving it some gas. It is possible that the AAV has closed fully due to voltage getting to it which would prevent the car from getting enough air to stay running.

WallyP

Or, starting on the fuel from the cold start injector, dying because there is no fuel being injected...

Relay, relay, relay.

Lizard928

Wally,

That is why I asked about the running if revved.

It would determine if it was just running on the CSI.

Keep in mind that the L-Jet brain relay is NOT a standard 4 or 5 pin relay.
It has 2 87 pins. As supposed to 1 87 and 1 87a

Landseer

You are investing a lot of money on superchargers n'stuff.

Maybe order a Temp II and a Temp/Time and replace them (you will probably have them Wednesday).
I do this on all 16V USA cars whether they need it or not, similar to Tampa's methodology.

Your symptoms are ones I solved with a new temp/time.

chewy8000

I'm still screwed on this. I broke my leg last week so now I'm really struggling and on the line to get the car off my buddies lift at his shop. It's still firing up for about 4 seconds than stalls. I swapped in both new water bridge switches and nothing changed. I jumped the fuel pump directly from the battery to run it constant and still the same problem. It normally fires right up for 4 seconds than the idle surges up to normal like a choke but it's not making it to that part. I guess next Ill try to check the ISV. I can't figure it out it was running great a few days ago and hasn't moved off the lift. Very frustrating...

mark kibort

switching the tempII with the other sensor will fry the temp II switch. we did this in scotts car.you can hook up a 400ohm resistor and fake it out for starting the car, and see if that works. If it does, thats the issue. the tempII is a sensor, that is just a variable resistor based on heat. its not designed to have current run across it. It will be cooked if swapped.

IcemanG17

what he said

It does sound like classic temp II to me.....and easy test is to jump it with the proper resistance (for water temp) resistors or just use a piece of wire like I did.....with the wire in place it ran fine...pull the wire...it dies from SUPER rich condition

chewy8000

The thermo time switch connector and the tempII connectors were swapped for years accidently. The car was a big pain to start cold but once it ran it was fine. I switched the connections correctly and the car cranked and ran fine for the last couple weeks then for no Reason the car has the start and stall syndrome. So you think the thermo time switch harness burned up the tempII sensor? Why would it have worked fine for the last few weeks?

Landseer

Sorry to hear about your leg.

Did you try a three way jumper on the ignition relay? We've also seen the failure of one of the contacts within that relay return those symptoms.

chewy8000

I haven't tried that yet but I did jump a wire straight to the fuel pump and ran it constant while my buddy turned the ignition. Same symptoms fires up perfect for about 4 seconds and dies. If you try and give it ANY gas it won't fire up for about 5-10 minutes at all. Then goes right back to square one. Is it possible both my new and old Temp II sensors are burned up?

Landseer

You can measure them with an ohm meter per wsm specs and determine. Likely no. Make sure the right wires, though, are on the sensors by wire color, even if you have to strip back the brown insulation a little. Surely the wires weren't also switched, right?

I understand your symptons. The partial start situation is also common with the failure of one of the two relay contacts in the ignition relay. Do this first with a Y-jumper, 30 to both 87 terminals. You can jumper the fuel pump relay at the same time if you want.

chewy8000

I downloaded the fuse panel diagram and I'm going to try this after work today. I would imagine the ignition relay is the fuel injection relay? I don't see an ignition relay on the 81' chart. I'll jump both relays for good measure and report back.