Help Me Choose a Lift
05-15-2010, 05:30 PM
#76
Three Wheelin'
Earlier I jumped in on this thread, as I was, too, looking for a lift. Although I do some wrenching, my primary application was storage.
Earlier advice was against the "Maximum One" single post lift, based on the thought that it didn't offer enough clearance to allow me to service the car, but I really couldn't find anything better. The primary factors in my purchase decision were (in order): safety, storage use/space efficiency, price, and appearance. So I went with it.
First, the purchase experience was fantastic. I was given all the information I needed which was important because I was a little anxious about this - a lift can be dangerous, it's a lot of money, and I have no experience with lifts. Don't even know anyone who has one. The last thing I want to do is drop my car and do $100k+ of irreversible damage to three cars and my house, or worse, kill me or someone else! So, when I initially approached American Custom Lifts, I was just shopping. However, there was good follow up at that time, and when I was ready to buy, we picked up where I left off.
The lift order was placed on April 5, and arrived in Atlanta via LTL on May 4. AC Lifts coordinated an installer and shipping. The lift was shipped to the shippers terminal where the installer picked it up, brought it over and put it in.
The communication was throughout - the installer called to understand the layout and specifics of the installation to make sure he knew of any obstacles well in advance. I quickly grew confident that the installer selected was experienced and and capable of handling the job. I was also called when the lift was nearing shipment, during shipment, and after installation by both the installer and AC Lifts.
The lift I chose is available in both a 120v and a 240v power unit. Within 3 days of ordering I quickly changed to a 240v outlet when I realized that the gas dryer in the laundry room left an electric dryer circuit available for an extension to the garage (a full run from the panel would have been a challenge). While I think the 120v would have been sufficient, I wanted to make sure I had plenty of juice for quick lifts.
Installation - A last minute change at work required me to be out of town on installation day. My presence wasn't required, although when a couple questions came up the installer called and we talked through the lift placement and electrical connection. When I arrived home the next day, the lift was all set up and ready to go. All of the packing materials were removed. I did have to wipe down the unit to remove some concrete and shipping dust. I had just wiped everything down in my garage the prior weekend to remove the spring Georgia pine pollen, so I wanted that showroom appearance. In a follow up call, AC Lifts noted that feedback and was sincere in that wipedowns are standard instruction to the installer.
by the way, in that follow-up call, I also noted a few areas where the white paint was chipped. Perhaps from shipping, or maybe from installation. Not a big deal, and, it is something I'll be driving my car over, but I did mention it. AC Lifts had a can of touch up paint at my house within two days!
Beyond that, the installation was and is solid. With the construction of this lift, some spacers were used to make sure the lift was level and square in my garage, which did vary 0.25" over the area of the installation. A check with my 4 foot level showed that the platform was as flat as a pancake. All holes for the base were drilled completely through my concrete. I was left with a bag of bolt hardware, so I suspect my particular installer may have used larger/longer bolts than what came with the unit. (He said on the phone, "I'm a bolt bigot").
Lift - The lift itself is very strong. I have the unit rated for 4500#. The platform barely flexes with the 928 on it. The single post is 0.5" steel with the base consisting of multiple 1" steel plates. The unit has movable drip pans to keep the car below clean. I lift also comes with removable diamondplate aluminum ramps. This allows cars with low clearance to get up on the platform. The ramps do not have to be removed when raising/lowering the vehicle.
Lift operation - It's easy - a single electrical button to turn on the pump. The pump fills the hydraulic cylinder that lift the platform. When the lift rises, the large, heavy metal pin clicks as the carriage passes each safety stop. Once the car is lifted in position, you depress the lever to open the valve that allows the cylinder to expel oil back into the reservoir. This lowers the platform until the metal pin rests on the safety stop. That is so that you take pressure off of the pump and allow the lift to be supported by steel.
To lower the lift, you raise the lift slightly, then pull a cable that moves the pin away from the safety stops, then depress the lever until the platform is lowered to the floor.
This particular lift does not have any limiters or lockable switches. The electrical switch and lever are six feet off the ground, so a small child wouldn't be able to reach it. I suppose if it were a worry, you could at least install a locking electrical switch at the pushbutton to prevent someone from raising a vehicle. Given that you have to lift the vehicle off of a safety stop in order to lower it, I think this would effectively prevent someone from lowering your vehicle, too.
As far as raising the vehicle in my tight (10.5 foot) residential garage, I do need to be cautious to make sure I don't lift my car through the ceiling! I'll probably mark with tape my limit on the post.
Allright, allright. This is my first lift, so I'm a bit verbose. The bottom line is this: I love this thing. It allows me to keep my daily driver, my 928, and my wife's grocery getter out of the weather and safe in the garage. Although expensive when you consider the cost by itself, my next choice was to build another attached garage. Not only would that have chewed up some room, the cost of the lift is a fraction at what it would have costed to erect another structure (with electric service, a wash sink, A/C - why not?).
I can't wait to show the guy down the street who has a 350Z under a cover on his driveway...
Enough of that - here are some pics:
Earlier advice was against the "Maximum One" single post lift, based on the thought that it didn't offer enough clearance to allow me to service the car, but I really couldn't find anything better. The primary factors in my purchase decision were (in order): safety, storage use/space efficiency, price, and appearance. So I went with it.
First, the purchase experience was fantastic. I was given all the information I needed which was important because I was a little anxious about this - a lift can be dangerous, it's a lot of money, and I have no experience with lifts. Don't even know anyone who has one. The last thing I want to do is drop my car and do $100k+ of irreversible damage to three cars and my house, or worse, kill me or someone else! So, when I initially approached American Custom Lifts, I was just shopping. However, there was good follow up at that time, and when I was ready to buy, we picked up where I left off.
The lift order was placed on April 5, and arrived in Atlanta via LTL on May 4. AC Lifts coordinated an installer and shipping. The lift was shipped to the shippers terminal where the installer picked it up, brought it over and put it in.
The communication was throughout - the installer called to understand the layout and specifics of the installation to make sure he knew of any obstacles well in advance. I quickly grew confident that the installer selected was experienced and and capable of handling the job. I was also called when the lift was nearing shipment, during shipment, and after installation by both the installer and AC Lifts.
The lift I chose is available in both a 120v and a 240v power unit. Within 3 days of ordering I quickly changed to a 240v outlet when I realized that the gas dryer in the laundry room left an electric dryer circuit available for an extension to the garage (a full run from the panel would have been a challenge). While I think the 120v would have been sufficient, I wanted to make sure I had plenty of juice for quick lifts.
Installation - A last minute change at work required me to be out of town on installation day. My presence wasn't required, although when a couple questions came up the installer called and we talked through the lift placement and electrical connection. When I arrived home the next day, the lift was all set up and ready to go. All of the packing materials were removed. I did have to wipe down the unit to remove some concrete and shipping dust. I had just wiped everything down in my garage the prior weekend to remove the spring Georgia pine pollen, so I wanted that showroom appearance. In a follow up call, AC Lifts noted that feedback and was sincere in that wipedowns are standard instruction to the installer.
by the way, in that follow-up call, I also noted a few areas where the white paint was chipped. Perhaps from shipping, or maybe from installation. Not a big deal, and, it is something I'll be driving my car over, but I did mention it. AC Lifts had a can of touch up paint at my house within two days!
Beyond that, the installation was and is solid. With the construction of this lift, some spacers were used to make sure the lift was level and square in my garage, which did vary 0.25" over the area of the installation. A check with my 4 foot level showed that the platform was as flat as a pancake. All holes for the base were drilled completely through my concrete. I was left with a bag of bolt hardware, so I suspect my particular installer may have used larger/longer bolts than what came with the unit. (He said on the phone, "I'm a bolt bigot").
Lift - The lift itself is very strong. I have the unit rated for 4500#. The platform barely flexes with the 928 on it. The single post is 0.5" steel with the base consisting of multiple 1" steel plates. The unit has movable drip pans to keep the car below clean. I lift also comes with removable diamondplate aluminum ramps. This allows cars with low clearance to get up on the platform. The ramps do not have to be removed when raising/lowering the vehicle.
Lift operation - It's easy - a single electrical button to turn on the pump. The pump fills the hydraulic cylinder that lift the platform. When the lift rises, the large, heavy metal pin clicks as the carriage passes each safety stop. Once the car is lifted in position, you depress the lever to open the valve that allows the cylinder to expel oil back into the reservoir. This lowers the platform until the metal pin rests on the safety stop. That is so that you take pressure off of the pump and allow the lift to be supported by steel.
To lower the lift, you raise the lift slightly, then pull a cable that moves the pin away from the safety stops, then depress the lever until the platform is lowered to the floor.
This particular lift does not have any limiters or lockable switches. The electrical switch and lever are six feet off the ground, so a small child wouldn't be able to reach it. I suppose if it were a worry, you could at least install a locking electrical switch at the pushbutton to prevent someone from raising a vehicle. Given that you have to lift the vehicle off of a safety stop in order to lower it, I think this would effectively prevent someone from lowering your vehicle, too.
As far as raising the vehicle in my tight (10.5 foot) residential garage, I do need to be cautious to make sure I don't lift my car through the ceiling! I'll probably mark with tape my limit on the post.
Allright, allright. This is my first lift, so I'm a bit verbose. The bottom line is this: I love this thing. It allows me to keep my daily driver, my 928, and my wife's grocery getter out of the weather and safe in the garage. Although expensive when you consider the cost by itself, my next choice was to build another attached garage. Not only would that have chewed up some room, the cost of the lift is a fraction at what it would have costed to erect another structure (with electric service, a wash sink, A/C - why not?).
I can't wait to show the guy down the street who has a 350Z under a cover on his driveway...
Enough of that - here are some pics:
NICE, Mind me asking how much for the unit, shipping and install?
05-15-2010, 06:12 PM
#77
Nordschleife Master
05-15-2010, 06:17 PM
#78
Nordschleife Master
I just got 2x 2 post lifts.
Unfortunatly they are under cable design but I couldn't complain about the price.
They are older cinncinati lifts. Both have new cables too.
All I will say s that I got both for less than half the cost of 1 new one...
Unfortunatly they are under cable design but I couldn't complain about the price.
They are older cinncinati lifts. Both have new cables too.
All I will say s that I got both for less than half the cost of 1 new one...
05-15-2010, 08:19 PM
#79
Instructor
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Coral Gables, Florida
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since I do rent my space, if I ever want to leave for a bigger space or smaller, taking the rolling four post would be easy teardown and no worries about unbolting and re-bolting to floor. Only question is which company?
05-16-2010, 11:57 AM
#80
Rennlist Member
How about four post lifts? I have been thinking about the ones that you can move around (when not loaded of course) I kind of like the idea of using it for storage of one car on top one on bottom and also having the ability to roll inside the warehouse if I need to make space or reorganize, also rolling it out side for other (dirty) work is a plus. I would get it with the optional rail lifters for doing wheel/break work. Anyone have suggestions on the four post? Does anybody own one?
05-16-2010, 01:47 PM
#81
single post cost breakdown
Sweet928,
The cost for the lift I bought was $5495 plus shipping and installation. My lift is rated for 4500#. They make a 6500# model which is essentially the same, but has a taller carriage and post, which goes for $5795.
Shipping is from Texas, and will vary based on where you're at. From Texas to Atlanta it was $529. AC Lifts coordinates with a local lift installer/service company, so there will be some +/- there. Typically they're $900. I paid $915.
This was purchased through American Custom Lifts, aclifts.com. I worked with Brad Davies, 888-711-5438. By the way, the Phantom Park is the lift I REALLY wanted, but at $40,000 not including excavation, I quickly forgot all about that!!
-Matt
The cost for the lift I bought was $5495 plus shipping and installation. My lift is rated for 4500#. They make a 6500# model which is essentially the same, but has a taller carriage and post, which goes for $5795.
Shipping is from Texas, and will vary based on where you're at. From Texas to Atlanta it was $529. AC Lifts coordinates with a local lift installer/service company, so there will be some +/- there. Typically they're $900. I paid $915.
This was purchased through American Custom Lifts, aclifts.com. I worked with Brad Davies, 888-711-5438. By the way, the Phantom Park is the lift I REALLY wanted, but at $40,000 not including excavation, I quickly forgot all about that!!
-Matt
Last edited by MattCarp; 05-16-2010 at 02:54 PM.
05-16-2010, 02:01 PM
#82
Race Car
05-16-2010, 02:51 PM
#83
My ceiling is 10' 6" (126").
The 928 is 50.5" tall, call it 51". My 2004 Saab 9-5 happens to be 55" and the lift platform is just under 4". That adds up to 110".
So I have a little over an extra foot, say 8" between the Saab and the lift platform, and 8" between the 928 and the ceiling. I think the safety stops are every 4" (don't quote me on that) - you want at least that to be able to raise the lift slightly to then pull the release cable to take the lift off of the safety stop it rests on in the raised position.
After confirming the vertical clearance of the cars and the lift,
step 1 for me was to select the lift and confirm the project plan and costs,
step 2 was to raise the garage door tracks,
step 3 was to run 240v to the approximate lift position, and
step 4 was to order the lift, and step 5 was to get the lift installed.
Step 2, raising the garage door tracks and installing jackscrew openers was quite expensive for me. Although there's an EXCELLENT step by step tutorial on the web on how to raise the tracks yourself, I decided to hire that out. It would have been an hassle and I didn't want to have any risk of the garage door falling on my cars! The cost to raise two garage doors (a double and a single) was $1211, locally. This cost included changing the spring from a Wayne Dalton enclosed tube spring (can't remember the name) to a conventional torsion spring and bar. Then I had to install new jackscrew openers vs. the conventional hanging, center mount kind I had. There are only a couple jackscrew choices. I selected the the Chamberlin LiftMaster 3800 - even if you don't do a lift project, I'll never get another type of opener. $312 was the cheapest I could find it for the 3800 from North Shore Commercial Door in Elyria, Ohio; ordered through their web site. The LiftMaster is QUIET, and has a slow start, slow finish operation. Another interesting option with this opener is a battery backup accessory that can be added to allow operation of the opener when the power fails.
hope this helps.
The 928 is 50.5" tall, call it 51". My 2004 Saab 9-5 happens to be 55" and the lift platform is just under 4". That adds up to 110".
So I have a little over an extra foot, say 8" between the Saab and the lift platform, and 8" between the 928 and the ceiling. I think the safety stops are every 4" (don't quote me on that) - you want at least that to be able to raise the lift slightly to then pull the release cable to take the lift off of the safety stop it rests on in the raised position.
After confirming the vertical clearance of the cars and the lift,
step 1 for me was to select the lift and confirm the project plan and costs,
step 2 was to raise the garage door tracks,
step 3 was to run 240v to the approximate lift position, and
step 4 was to order the lift, and step 5 was to get the lift installed.
Step 2, raising the garage door tracks and installing jackscrew openers was quite expensive for me. Although there's an EXCELLENT step by step tutorial on the web on how to raise the tracks yourself, I decided to hire that out. It would have been an hassle and I didn't want to have any risk of the garage door falling on my cars! The cost to raise two garage doors (a double and a single) was $1211, locally. This cost included changing the spring from a Wayne Dalton enclosed tube spring (can't remember the name) to a conventional torsion spring and bar. Then I had to install new jackscrew openers vs. the conventional hanging, center mount kind I had. There are only a couple jackscrew choices. I selected the the Chamberlin LiftMaster 3800 - even if you don't do a lift project, I'll never get another type of opener. $312 was the cheapest I could find it for the 3800 from North Shore Commercial Door in Elyria, Ohio; ordered through their web site. The LiftMaster is QUIET, and has a slow start, slow finish operation. Another interesting option with this opener is a battery backup accessory that can be added to allow operation of the opener when the power fails.
hope this helps.
05-16-2010, 03:53 PM
#84
Nordschleife Master
Matt,
All I need to do is step 4 and 5 and I live in Cedar Park, TX so might be able to save a few bucks on shipping and install if I am lucky! Now I just need some income to make it happen!!! Probably put my race car on the lift and keep the street cars at ground level!
All I need to do is step 4 and 5 and I live in Cedar Park, TX so might be able to save a few bucks on shipping and install if I am lucky! Now I just need some income to make it happen!!! Probably put my race car on the lift and keep the street cars at ground level!
08-19-2010, 10:42 AM
#85
Rennlist Member
Leave it to Costco to put together a deal you just can't pass up!
Dannmar MaxJax for $1900 delivered!
Dannmar MaxJax for $1900 delivered!
08-19-2010, 11:27 AM
#86
Burning Brakes
Be careful of lifts that require bolting into the cement. Maxjax looks great, but unless you have at least 4 -6 inches of reasonable concrete (For any lift) you could have trouble. From my reading, most people cut out the floor where they will mount the lift and pour in appropriate thicker concrete with rebar if they are unsure of the concrete strength.
Back yard Buddy is a good four post but expensive about 6,000 with all the options and the Bend Pak with all options is around 4,000. I"m considering the Bend Pak with casters etc and eventually change the garage doors and motors to get more height. I have heard good things about Greg Smith too. Glad to add to your confusion
Back yard Buddy is a good four post but expensive about 6,000 with all the options and the Bend Pak with all options is around 4,000. I"m considering the Bend Pak with casters etc and eventually change the garage doors and motors to get more height. I have heard good things about Greg Smith too. Glad to add to your confusion
08-19-2010, 12:15 PM
#87
Racer
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Pebble Beach, Ca
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a backyard buddy.
I've had it for about 10 years.
I really like it! No need to bolt down the legs, in fact they don't want you to.
Now it has rails, so all 4 tires are not suspended. At times it would be nice to have.
My ceiling is 9'6". I fit my 928 on top (backwards, so the hood goes under the garage door)' then my wife's C4S is under. About 1" below
Even with our eArthquakes, it's been ok.
I've had it for about 10 years.
I really like it! No need to bolt down the legs, in fact they don't want you to.
Now it has rails, so all 4 tires are not suspended. At times it would be nice to have.
My ceiling is 9'6". I fit my 928 on top (backwards, so the hood goes under the garage door)' then my wife's C4S is under. About 1" below
Even with our eArthquakes, it's been ok.
08-19-2010, 09:02 PM
#88
Rennlist Member
4" is pretty standard for garage floors and it's easy to measure the thickness when the holes are drilled. I'd be surprised if any house had less than 4". In my case, I had 4.5 inches, so all was good and I've been real happy with the installation (2 post DirectLift).
06-10-2011, 01:53 PM
#89
Three Wheelin'
I think I posted this before but here is some good info on the high lift garage door conversion.
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instru...conversion.php
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instru...conversion.php
06-10-2011, 02:25 PM
#90
Three Wheelin'
