silent brakes - it can be done
#16
Rennlist Member
Colin - Thank you. I was thinking about what Dr. Bob posted and resurfacing the rotors too. For whatever reason, new GTS front rotors are very expensive! And God knows, they're probably the same size as a Ford F-150 and availabe for $30 at NAPA... But I will definitely think about the PBR pads.
Bruce
Bruce
#17
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
My concerns about rotor resurfacing only have to do with how much effort and time are required to bed in new pads. If the rotor surface is wavy/grooved, new flat-faced pads will only touch the hgh spots until they are worn in. The initial bedding-in process is then only effective on the small percentage of pad surface that actually touches the rotor. Rotors can develop hard spots from temperature differences under severe pressure/duty.
I'm generally not a big fan of having rotors resurfaced unless I can provide direct guidance to the 'expert' who's doing the work. I like to measure the rotors before they arrive for the work, again in front of the tech, and label each one with current thickness and target minimum turned thickness. If the rotors go to a high-volume shop, especially in a place that sells rotors, the easiest/laziest way for the tech to turn them is to choose a cutting depth that makes darn sure that he will only need one pass. He may sacrifice a lot of metal unnecessarily in his haste. The numbers and the verbal/written guidance let him know that the easiest/laziest way might not be the best way.
I'm generally not a big fan of having rotors resurfaced unless I can provide direct guidance to the 'expert' who's doing the work. I like to measure the rotors before they arrive for the work, again in front of the tech, and label each one with current thickness and target minimum turned thickness. If the rotors go to a high-volume shop, especially in a place that sells rotors, the easiest/laziest way for the tech to turn them is to choose a cutting depth that makes darn sure that he will only need one pass. He may sacrifice a lot of metal unnecessarily in his haste. The numbers and the verbal/written guidance let him know that the easiest/laziest way might not be the best way.
#18
Rennlist
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My concerns about rotor resurfacing only have to do with how much effort and time are required to bed in new pads. If the rotor surface is wavy/grooved, new flat-faced pads will only touch the hgh spots until they are worn in. The initial bedding-in process is then only effective on the small percentage of pad surface that actually touches the rotor. Rotors can develop hard spots from temperature differences under severe pressure/duty.
I'm generally not a big fan of having rotors resurfaced unless I can provide direct guidance to the 'expert' who's doing the work. I like to measure the rotors before they arrive for the work, again in front of the tech, and label each one with current thickness and target minimum turned thickness. If the rotors go to a high-volume shop, especially in a place that sells rotors, the easiest/laziest way for the tech to turn them is to choose a cutting depth that makes darn sure that he will only need one pass. He may sacrifice a lot of metal unnecessarily in his haste. The numbers and the verbal/written guidance let him know that the easiest/laziest way might not be the best way.
I'm generally not a big fan of having rotors resurfaced unless I can provide direct guidance to the 'expert' who's doing the work. I like to measure the rotors before they arrive for the work, again in front of the tech, and label each one with current thickness and target minimum turned thickness. If the rotors go to a high-volume shop, especially in a place that sells rotors, the easiest/laziest way for the tech to turn them is to choose a cutting depth that makes darn sure that he will only need one pass. He may sacrifice a lot of metal unnecessarily in his haste. The numbers and the verbal/written guidance let him know that the easiest/laziest way might not be the best way.
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
#19
Nordschleife Master
I like Bob and GB do not resurface rotors on these cars.
I will only go with new rotors as once they need to be resurfaced, it is time for them to be replaced.
Esp with how I drive.
I will only go with new rotors as once they need to be resurfaced, it is time for them to be replaced.
Esp with how I drive.
#20
I followed this procedure and took some pics. Initially my brakes still made a horrible sound at low speeds so I removed the pads and reground with a new wheel on my bench grinder. Now the brakes are silent. The old wheel was to rough, I should of filed before installing.
#26
Rennlist Member
OK Stupid Question Time.....
I should know this but...
Do you have to remove the calipers to change out the pads?
I just always have, so if there's another way.
I should know this but...
Do you have to remove the calipers to change out the pads?
I just always have, so if there's another way.
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
To replace worn pads with new you'll have to push the caliper pistons back into the caliper to allow for the new thicker pads and the easiest method is to use a 'c' clamp with the caliper off.