Safe to drive on 4 cilinders?
02-21-2010, 02:26 PM
#31
Team Owner
did you flip the crank damper around??
Do the timing marks now line up correctly??
Do the timing marks now line up correctly??
02-21-2010, 06:52 PM
#32
Racer
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I figured since the car is running great and has been for the last 10.000 km those timings are probably okay. And I am also afraid there is perhaps a strange reason for the damper to be upside down, maybe it's a reconditioned and half broken or something.
02-21-2010, 07:09 PM
#33
Team Owner
Ummmmmm, I think your going to have to turn in your keys
SRSLY if you cant flip the damper, take the car to a shop that knows these cars and have it done.
You really need to make sure the timing marks are correct, just because its running doesnt mean it is correct,
you never know you might get more power if the marks are not not correct now
SRSLY if you cant flip the damper, take the car to a shop that knows these cars and have it done.
You really need to make sure the timing marks are correct, just because its running doesnt mean it is correct,
you never know you might get more power if the marks are not not correct now
02-21-2010, 10:42 PM
#34
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Oh this is going to sound strange, but I am not going to 'flip it'. I have to take off 4 pulleys and I never done that in my life. Taking apart this distributor is the hardest thing I've done to the car so far. I never even heard of TDC since last week. I am a total car-noob! It's only thanks to this forum I managed to do this.
I figured since the car is running great and has been for the last 10.000 km those timings are probably okay. And I am also afraid there is perhaps a strange reason for the damper to be upside down, maybe it's a reconditioned and half broken or something.
I figured since the car is running great and has been for the last 10.000 km those timings are probably okay. And I am also afraid there is perhaps a strange reason for the damper to be upside down, maybe it's a reconditioned and half broken or something.
The amount of work required to fix it is not really that significant in the big picture. Take all the drive belts off. Remove the fan and probably the radiator too. Beg/borrow/buy the tool that locks the flywheel, and use a 27mm deep socket and a big bar to loosen the bolt on the snout of the crank. The pulleys there will slide off, and with some wiggling and hand-pulling, the damper will come off. Put the damper back on with the numbers turned so you can read them, and put back the pieces you took off. Takes a big torque wrench to get that bolt back on correctly, but otherwise none of it is real rocket surgery.
