ALUMINUM BALL JOINT FAILURE
02-12-2010, 09:07 PM
#16
Nordschleife Master
Always happens at low speed...just think how hard it is to turn the wheel when you are going slowly vs. when you are going fast... That is why 99% of these failures happen "when I was pulling in to a parking space"...or whatever. That is the GOOD THING about this particular failure. Though it is obvious that much damage can still be done to the car...
So, sorry to hear about this! Every year or so, we have the "IF YOU HAVE ALUMINUM BALL JOINTS STILL...CHANGE THEM" thread... I guess it is time for that one again.
When did the change to steel happen??? '81...no, '82 or '83 maybe it was. I think my '81 had them but they had been changed out by the time I got the car.
So, sorry to hear about this! Every year or so, we have the "IF YOU HAVE ALUMINUM BALL JOINTS STILL...CHANGE THEM" thread... I guess it is time for that one again.
When did the change to steel happen??? '81...no, '82 or '83 maybe it was. I think my '81 had them but they had been changed out by the time I got the car.
02-12-2010, 09:14 PM
#17
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September 83 was the change.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
02-12-2010, 09:31 PM
#21
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Happened to me too. I had driven up the 5 to the bay area from L.A. 90+ the whole way. Big rigs on all sides. Next morning went out for breakfast, and it failed at 2mph turning into the parking lot. Had my pregnent wife with me as well. I know they normally fail at low speed/ tight turns but I will still always count myself as lucky.
02-12-2010, 10:26 PM
#23
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Thanks folks - I liked driving it so much I didn't want to put it on jack stands
Funny thing is a few hundred feet before it happened, the car pulled hard to the right under acceleration- and I was correcting for it when it went.
I read those threads about the ball joints -been driving it since Sept - almost 2,500 miles later - yeah it's my fault.
And now I'm ordering the gas lines
ROG100 PM sent
Your ball joint warning light must not have been working.
I read those threads about the ball joints -been driving it since Sept - almost 2,500 miles later - yeah it's my fault.
And now I'm ordering the gas lines
Special for those that need them.
2 ball joints and 2 eccentrics $270 plus shipping.
That may help a little.
2 ball joints and 2 eccentrics $270 plus shipping.
That may help a little.
02-12-2010, 11:44 PM
#24
Race Car
I really wanted to ignore the admonishes on this (by Devek back then) but gaved and updated them on a precautionary basis. WYAIT? I'd say sway bar bushings, consider dropping struts for rebuild if Bilstiens..maybe wheel bearings. Strictly related to the ball joints- no..but WYAIT...
02-12-2010, 11:52 PM
#25
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This is a great opportunity to upgrade your suspension to the S4 ('86.5 or newer). S4 ball joint arrangement (compression) is mechanically better than the early ball joint setup (tension). Plus you get 4 piston calipers to boot!
02-13-2010, 10:25 AM
#26
Three Wheelin'
I found receipts from my car's PO that the driver's side balljoint had failed. She had a local shop replace both sides w/steel joints. Last years while I was doing shocks, I decided to replace the upper balljoint boots, because they looked a little dried out. Everything looked normal until I removed the old boot. The A-arm had been damaged by the stress. I went ahead and rebuilt both joints and installed grease zirts.
02-13-2010, 10:59 AM
#27
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One of the first jobs I did on the Bleumax.
02-13-2010, 02:50 PM
#28
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Always happens at low speed...just think how hard it is to turn the wheel when you are going slowly vs. when you are going fast... That is why 99% of these failures happen "when I was pulling in to a parking space"...or whatever. That is the GOOD THING about this particular failure. Though it is obvious that much damage can still be done to the car...
So, sorry to hear about this! Every year or so, we have the "IF YOU HAVE ALUMINUM BALL JOINTS STILL...CHANGE THEM" thread... I guess it is time for that one again.
When did the change to steel happen??? '81...no, '82 or '83 maybe it was. I think my '81 had them but they had been changed out by the time I got the car.
So, sorry to hear about this! Every year or so, we have the "IF YOU HAVE ALUMINUM BALL JOINTS STILL...CHANGE THEM" thread... I guess it is time for that one again.
When did the change to steel happen??? '81...no, '82 or '83 maybe it was. I think my '81 had them but they had been changed out by the time I got the car.
02-13-2010, 02:52 PM
#29
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Thanks folks - I liked driving it so much I didn't want to put it on jack stands
Funny thing is a few hundred feet before it happened, the car pulled hard to the right under acceleration- and I was correcting for it when it went.
I read those threads about the ball joints -been driving it since Sept - almost 2,500 miles later - yeah it's my fault.
And now I'm ordering the gas lines
ROG100 PM sent
Funny thing is a few hundred feet before it happened, the car pulled hard to the right under acceleration- and I was correcting for it when it went.
I read those threads about the ball joints -been driving it since Sept - almost 2,500 miles later - yeah it's my fault.
And now I'm ordering the gas lines
ROG100 PM sent
02-13-2010, 06:41 PM
#30
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Bronto--
If you are religious about having your mechanic avoid jacking the car as part of the alignment process, he may never see the play. In the meanwhile, you can jack up a corner in front, and grab the wheel top and bottom. Rock it some, and see if there's noticeable play. If there's any querstion at all, roll under the car and wrap your hand around the balljoint while you push/pull on the bottom of the wheel. If you feel any play there, time to replace. Even the later cars with steel joints need this test. If your car still has the original aluminum joints, you WILL feel the play and need to replace, so you can shortcut the whole testing process and go right to replacement. The TSB shown above and the parts kit from Rodger are a good start.
If you are religious about having your mechanic avoid jacking the car as part of the alignment process, he may never see the play. In the meanwhile, you can jack up a corner in front, and grab the wheel top and bottom. Rock it some, and see if there's noticeable play. If there's any querstion at all, roll under the car and wrap your hand around the balljoint while you push/pull on the bottom of the wheel. If you feel any play there, time to replace. Even the later cars with steel joints need this test. If your car still has the original aluminum joints, you WILL feel the play and need to replace, so you can shortcut the whole testing process and go right to replacement. The TSB shown above and the parts kit from Rodger are a good start.