Thrust bearing / crankshaft end play on 86.5 Auto
#1
Thrust bearing / crankshaft end play on 86.5 Auto
I am in the middle of a MM / Pan Gasket job.
The cross member / MM are out.
The sway bar is off. (Should it swing down freely? Or only after the lower link bolts are loosened?)
The pan will be coming off tonight.
Can the thrust bearing / crank end play be inspected / measured there?
Thanks in advance.
The cross member / MM are out.
The sway bar is off. (Should it swing down freely? Or only after the lower link bolts are loosened?)
The pan will be coming off tonight.
Can the thrust bearing / crank end play be inspected / measured there?
Thanks in advance.
#2
Loosen. Can also just take it off for room under there.
Yes you should check endplay. Easier there at flexplate than at front of car.
Bill Ball has posted methods.
Best to have a Starrett type gauge with flexible magnetic mount.
I usually use a floor jack to carefully push a piece of steel rectangular tubing against the bottom of the car to act as a stable flat base for the magnet. Careful not to lift car off jackstands though!
Yes you should check endplay. Easier there at flexplate than at front of car.
Bill Ball has posted methods.
Best to have a Starrett type gauge with flexible magnetic mount.
I usually use a floor jack to carefully push a piece of steel rectangular tubing against the bottom of the car to act as a stable flat base for the magnet. Careful not to lift car off jackstands though!
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#8
Captain Obvious
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
The pinch collar at the flexplate shoud be released before checking the play. Otherwise you will be fighting the flexplate and might get an inaccurate reading. To get ot the pinch collar bolt the lower bell housing needs to come off. And for that, the exhause might need to come off.
#9
you want to inspect the flex plate for a bow or cracks .
but you can check the flex plate with the oil pan off this will assist you in looking at the #3 web where the thrust bearing is .
you might get lucky and be able to remove the 2 rearmost bolts on the bell housing if not just loosen the 6 manifold bolts first ,
if they are rusty go to Ace and get a new set and use anti seize on them
but you can check the flex plate with the oil pan off this will assist you in looking at the #3 web where the thrust bearing is .
you might get lucky and be able to remove the 2 rearmost bolts on the bell housing if not just loosen the 6 manifold bolts first ,
if they are rusty go to Ace and get a new set and use anti seize on them
#10
I managed to get the lower bell housing off without dropping the exhaust.
Now a couple more questions:
Is there anything I need to measure before loosening the clamp? Or do I just loosen it and watch for movement?
One picture has a red arrow in it. It is pointing at a “square” opening to the top side. Should this have some sort of cover or plug?
All comments are appreciated.
Thanks
Now a couple more questions:
Is there anything I need to measure before loosening the clamp? Or do I just loosen it and watch for movement?
One picture has a red arrow in it. It is pointing at a “square” opening to the top side. Should this have some sort of cover or plug?
All comments are appreciated.
Thanks
#13
#14
Before you loosen the clamp place a straight edge across the plate to get a better idea of the plates flatness (or bow). When you release the clamp the plate should go to flat. The with the clamp loose you can measure the crankshaft end play.
#15
I loosened the clamp and it moved back maybe 2 to 3 mm.
I could not hear a “clunk” when moving the crank (belts still on) but it did move. Best I could measure with a digital caliper was .007” to .0075” (.0005 resolution). Also, using a feeler gauge at the thrust bearing (oil pan is off) I could fit in .007” but not .008”. I checked several times, front and rear. Is this a valid means of measurement? Is .007" to .008" acceptable?
I intend to put on a PKlamp. Should the crank be all the way to the rear, or centered, before tightening?
I could not hear a “clunk” when moving the crank (belts still on) but it did move. Best I could measure with a digital caliper was .007” to .0075” (.0005 resolution). Also, using a feeler gauge at the thrust bearing (oil pan is off) I could fit in .007” but not .008”. I checked several times, front and rear. Is this a valid means of measurement? Is .007" to .008" acceptable?
I intend to put on a PKlamp. Should the crank be all the way to the rear, or centered, before tightening?