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Thrust bearing / crankshaft end play on 86.5 Auto

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Old 02-08-2010, 01:00 PM
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depami
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Default Thrust bearing / crankshaft end play on 86.5 Auto

I am in the middle of a MM / Pan Gasket job.

The cross member / MM are out.

The sway bar is off. (Should it swing down freely? Or only after the lower link bolts are loosened?)

The pan will be coming off tonight.

Can the thrust bearing / crank end play be inspected / measured there?

Thanks in advance.
Old 02-08-2010, 01:23 PM
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Landseer
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Loosen. Can also just take it off for room under there.

Yes you should check endplay. Easier there at flexplate than at front of car.

Bill Ball has posted methods.

Best to have a Starrett type gauge with flexible magnetic mount.

I usually use a floor jack to carefully push a piece of steel rectangular tubing against the bottom of the car to act as a stable flat base for the magnet. Careful not to lift car off jackstands though!
Old 02-08-2010, 05:30 PM
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JHowell37
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Chris, that dog looks dead.
Old 02-08-2010, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JHowell37
Chris, that dog looks dead.
She was in some kind of "Newfoundland Zone".
Mystical. Got the shot, then she ran.
Old 02-08-2010, 06:03 PM
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My lab had a similar expression on his face after he walked the green mile.
Old 02-08-2010, 09:34 PM
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M. Requin
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Everybody in Newfoundland looks like that...
Old 02-08-2010, 09:45 PM
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LOL.

Hey, Denny, sorry to hijack, do you need some more info on the job at hand?
Old 02-08-2010, 11:26 PM
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Imo000
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The pinch collar at the flexplate shoud be released before checking the play. Otherwise you will be fighting the flexplate and might get an inaccurate reading. To get ot the pinch collar bolt the lower bell housing needs to come off. And for that, the exhause might need to come off.
Old 02-08-2010, 11:47 PM
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Mrmerlin
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you want to inspect the flex plate for a bow or cracks .
but you can check the flex plate with the oil pan off this will assist you in looking at the #3 web where the thrust bearing is .
you might get lucky and be able to remove the 2 rearmost bolts on the bell housing if not just loosen the 6 manifold bolts first ,
if they are rusty go to Ace and get a new set and use anti seize on them
Old 02-15-2010, 11:48 AM
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depami
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I managed to get the lower bell housing off without dropping the exhaust.

Now a couple more questions:

Is there anything I need to measure before loosening the clamp? Or do I just loosen it and watch for movement?

One picture has a red arrow in it. It is pointing at a “square” opening to the top side. Should this have some sort of cover or plug?

All comments are appreciated.

Thanks

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Old 02-15-2010, 11:59 AM
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jeff spahn
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Put a PKlamp on while you have it all open. Get it from Roger. Good investment
Old 02-15-2010, 12:04 PM
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jeff spahn
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Also, write on your flexplate with a sharpie your service dates. Just saw this and I do that now. Better than memory
Old 02-15-2010, 12:17 PM
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depami
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Originally Posted by jeff spahn
Put a PKlamp on while you have it all open. Get it from Roger. Good investment
What does it take to install one? How much more has to come apart?


Spoke too soon. Just read Rogers instructions. Looks easy.

Last edited by depami; 02-15-2010 at 12:40 PM.
Old 02-16-2010, 12:13 AM
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WICruiser
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Before you loosen the clamp place a straight edge across the plate to get a better idea of the plates flatness (or bow). When you release the clamp the plate should go to flat. The with the clamp loose you can measure the crankshaft end play.
Old 02-17-2010, 11:12 AM
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depami
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I loosened the clamp and it moved back maybe 2 to 3 mm.

I could not hear a “clunk” when moving the crank (belts still on) but it did move. Best I could measure with a digital caliper was .007” to .0075” (.0005 resolution). Also, using a feeler gauge at the thrust bearing (oil pan is off) I could fit in .007” but not .008”. I checked several times, front and rear. Is this a valid means of measurement? Is .007" to .008" acceptable?

I intend to put on a PKlamp. Should the crank be all the way to the rear, or centered, before tightening?


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