Battery Tender install
#1
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Guys,
Just thought I would post these pics.
I use a Schumacher battery tender on my '92 and '82 928's and here is how I ran them to the outside of the car through an existing hole in the battery box.
On the inside I put an inline fuse (10A) on the positive side as close to the battery terminal as I can get it. That is for protection if the (+) should chafe and come in contact with the body of the car anywhere along its length.
This set up has worked flawlessly. And you can tuck it up under the rear bumper cover when not in use and it is out of the way. On BLUE82 the lead is a bit long so I put a piece of looped over duct tape up on the back side of the rear bumper cover and just stick the end of the lead to it... stays in place and easy to reach when I get back from a drive...not that BLUE82 goes out much...
Just thought I would post these pics.
I use a Schumacher battery tender on my '92 and '82 928's and here is how I ran them to the outside of the car through an existing hole in the battery box.
On the inside I put an inline fuse (10A) on the positive side as close to the battery terminal as I can get it. That is for protection if the (+) should chafe and come in contact with the body of the car anywhere along its length.
This set up has worked flawlessly. And you can tuck it up under the rear bumper cover when not in use and it is out of the way. On BLUE82 the lead is a bit long so I put a piece of looped over duct tape up on the back side of the rear bumper cover and just stick the end of the lead to it... stays in place and easy to reach when I get back from a drive...not that BLUE82 goes out much...
#2
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Guys,
Just thought I would post these pics.
I use a Schumacher battery tender on my '92 and '82 928's and here is how I ran them to the outside of the car through an existing hole in the battery box.
On the inside I put an inline fuse (10A) on the positive side as close to the battery terminal as I can get it. That is for protection if the (+) should chafe and come in contact with the body of the car anywhere along its length.
This set up has worked flawlessly. And you can tuck it up under the rear bumper cover when not in use and it is out of the way. On BLUE82 the lead is a bit long so I put a piece of looped over duct tape up on the back side of the rear bumper cover and just stick the end of the lead to it... stays in place and easy to reach when I get back from a drive...not that BLUE82 goes out much...
Just thought I would post these pics.
I use a Schumacher battery tender on my '92 and '82 928's and here is how I ran them to the outside of the car through an existing hole in the battery box.
On the inside I put an inline fuse (10A) on the positive side as close to the battery terminal as I can get it. That is for protection if the (+) should chafe and come in contact with the body of the car anywhere along its length.
This set up has worked flawlessly. And you can tuck it up under the rear bumper cover when not in use and it is out of the way. On BLUE82 the lead is a bit long so I put a piece of looped over duct tape up on the back side of the rear bumper cover and just stick the end of the lead to it... stays in place and easy to reach when I get back from a drive...not that BLUE82 goes out much...
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Some overspray on Blue down there?.
#3
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Great idea, James! I'd be a bit worried about moisture from rain or washing the car. Ideally, there would be a connector that you can close water tight after use, but some may argue that this would be overkill.
...and you even matched the color of the wires on the blue one!
...and you even matched the color of the wires on the blue one!
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#4
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I don't really like it this way... I'd not really recommend doing it like this.
I think you'd be better with a new hole higher up on the back edge so its away from any risk of getting scraped from underneath (and also any battery acid leaks). You really need a grommet in the hole anyway for chafing protection. Better still if the wires are in a sheath (heat shrink maybe) and that the pigtail socket is attached to the car in some way mechanically...
Alan
I think you'd be better with a new hole higher up on the back edge so its away from any risk of getting scraped from underneath (and also any battery acid leaks). You really need a grommet in the hole anyway for chafing protection. Better still if the wires are in a sheath (heat shrink maybe) and that the pigtail socket is attached to the car in some way mechanically...
Alan
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I spoke to James for some guidance and installed mine last night, but I left the plug in the hatch. The down side is that you need to keep something open to be able to plug it in. I did have to cut a small hole in the carpet, but once the tool kit is install, it is pretty well hidden.
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Mine is similar to Sanjay's, but runs under the carpet all the way to the tool box area. It's stored there next to he wiper motor when not in use. When I plug it in, I just pull the pigtail out and close the hatch on it. Works like a champ.
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#8
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On my car if I leave the hatch open my interior lights are on... a normal 'battery tender/maintainer' does not supply enough current to illuminate all the interior lights... (even if you turn them 'all' off it's still a problem - there are 2 left...)
You can close the hatch with a small wire through it - though it may perhaps lead to less than ideal sealing over time...
Alan
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I spoke to James for some guidance and installed mine last night, but I left the plug in the hatch. The down side is that you need to keep something open to be able to plug it in. I did have to cut a small hole in the carpet, but once the tool kit is install, it is pretty well hidden.
Same setup here. It's a little bit of a tight fit with the hatch closed though
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#12
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Alan,
A couple of things about my set up...
1. Being in a wheelchair I could not easily drill a new hole...couldn't just look under the car to see where it would come out. I agree that would be a MUCH better place for it though and would have been my first choice. I think I recommended that to Sanjay.
2. I put the battery up on come rubber spacers that are thick enough to keep the battery off the wires.
3. I didn't have a grommet that size, but did think about that too...the edges of that hole are pretty sharp and could easily cut the wire.
4. That is a factory hole so the battery can breath and if it should blow up give the acid some place to drain.
This set up has been in my '92 for almost 10 years and 20k miles now...no problems AT ALL! Works great.
Nicole, I have not had any problems with water when driving or washing the car... Obviously you could create some sort of cap for that connector if you wanted to making it even safer.
A couple of things about my set up...
1. Being in a wheelchair I could not easily drill a new hole...couldn't just look under the car to see where it would come out. I agree that would be a MUCH better place for it though and would have been my first choice. I think I recommended that to Sanjay.
2. I put the battery up on come rubber spacers that are thick enough to keep the battery off the wires.
3. I didn't have a grommet that size, but did think about that too...the edges of that hole are pretty sharp and could easily cut the wire.
4. That is a factory hole so the battery can breath and if it should blow up give the acid some place to drain.
This set up has been in my '92 for almost 10 years and 20k miles now...no problems AT ALL! Works great.
Nicole, I have not had any problems with water when driving or washing the car... Obviously you could create some sort of cap for that connector if you wanted to making it even safer.
#13
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James, You'll need to be careful with that lead ....if it doesn't have a cover or cap on it..it may let the electrons siphon out of the battery and that will be a big mess. Best to tuck it up and make sure the leads are pointing upwards
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#14
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James - I did wonder how you did this install - I know its not so easy for you.
I was indeed also worried about the battery crushing the wires against the hole... Grommets in this size are commonly available (ACE etc). I'd still suggest an extra leyer of heat shrink or PVC or corrugated sheathing or just use 2 conductor "zip wire" already in a jacket.
For occasional use mounting the plug it in the tool tray area seems viable. if you have lots of 928's
and keep some on constant trickle charge - I can see why external connectors are preferrable to a wire dangling trhough the hatch.
Alan
I was indeed also worried about the battery crushing the wires against the hole... Grommets in this size are commonly available (ACE etc). I'd still suggest an extra leyer of heat shrink or PVC or corrugated sheathing or just use 2 conductor "zip wire" already in a jacket.
For occasional use mounting the plug it in the tool tray area seems viable. if you have lots of 928's
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Alan
#15
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Wired mine up front. Easy to get to and covered up. Attached to the factory ground point and the hot post.
If I ever need to use it, it pulls out about 3 inches and quick to plug in.
The big red wire is for the HID's not the plug.
If I ever need to use it, it pulls out about 3 inches and quick to plug in.
The big red wire is for the HID's not the plug.