aux air valve fix now high idle
02-02-2010, 11:15 PM
#1
aux air valve fix now high idle
my 85 euro has always backfired when cold. and sometimes when hot .
i have changed all electrics( plug wires, rotor , cap , coils ) followed up on every vacumn possible issue .
and then changed with known good maf.
when approaching aav it was stuck closed completely closed. after reading
on a search in rennlist i had it working great and no back fire...
but...... now i ahve a high idle 1000- 900 warm . its not the tach the car will roll in gear without gas.
when i adjusted the opening of the aav i set it to run the full l shaped whole when cold and a small square left when warm .
i adjusted idle screw clockwise all the way to closed .
the isv was working great only on when air is on.
the throttle cable and all cables are not binding.
maf is seated great and no leaks.
i do not have a ox sensor running factory no cat exhaust.
what am i missing ? should aau be totally closed when hot ?
other wise the car runs great
i have changed all electrics( plug wires, rotor , cap , coils ) followed up on every vacumn possible issue .
and then changed with known good maf.
when approaching aav it was stuck closed completely closed. after reading
on a search in rennlist i had it working great and no back fire...
but...... now i ahve a high idle 1000- 900 warm . its not the tach the car will roll in gear without gas.
when i adjusted the opening of the aav i set it to run the full l shaped whole when cold and a small square left when warm .
i adjusted idle screw clockwise all the way to closed .
the isv was working great only on when air is on.
the throttle cable and all cables are not binding.
maf is seated great and no leaks.
i do not have a ox sensor running factory no cat exhaust.
what am i missing ? should aau be totally closed when hot ?
other wise the car runs great
02-03-2010, 01:07 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
Mine never fully closes, but its close.I adjusted it a whileago for not opening enough when cold, and now I get idle ~1100 for a few minutes, then down to spec 750 +/-50. You may have too much open when hot, so you may have to sacrifice some cold opening to get idle undercontrol. Is the bimetallic strip working OK?
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
02-03-2010, 01:22 AM
#3
the bimetallic strip is working i opened it up and gave it 12 volts and it moved well enough to cycle thru . before it was not moving at all. the fact it goes from 1,100 down to nine means its moving and i agree it must be open to much and before i bent the bimetallic strip it would fully close.
i have to find a happy medium
i have to find a happy medium
02-03-2010, 05:14 PM
#5
Team Owner
what is the voltage at the AAU with the key turned on?? It should be 12v
If its 5 volts then you have the wrong plug on the AAU , measure the plug for the temperature sensor on the airfilter housing the temp sensor plug should be 5 volts
If its 5 volts then you have the wrong plug on the AAU , measure the plug for the temperature sensor on the airfilter housing the temp sensor plug should be 5 volts
02-03-2010, 11:45 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
AAV should see 12V from cold , so that it starts bending the strip asap. Once the car is hot , engine heat keeps the strip bent and the valve closed (or nearly). My idle is only lifted for the first minute or so,much less than the time it takes for engine heat to reach it. If it doesnt see 12V at startup, the idle should stay high until block temp reaches the unit, which could be 5-10mins.
I cant remember fully, but the 12V supply may be broken by the thermotime switch when its up to temp, but this is more used to control the time the cold start valve supplies fuel for starting, and usually cuts it off at 8 secs, or its already hot.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
I cant remember fully, but the 12V supply may be broken by the thermotime switch when its up to temp, but this is more used to control the time the cold start valve supplies fuel for starting, and usually cuts it off at 8 secs, or its already hot.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
