Idle Problems @ Operating Temp Still - Maybe O2 Again & LH Not Adapting
#31
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You don't want to solder it.
That's why the universal connector is so wierd. Most people don't have crimp pliers to do it properly.
I thought the "no solder" stuff was bunk too until I looked into it further. Hit up google.
You do need a very good crimp on it. Mine is running that way and works great. When I had the whacky bosch connector it ran like crap.
Good luck! Hope the oem one works for you. I'm happy with my universal.
That's why the universal connector is so wierd. Most people don't have crimp pliers to do it properly.
I thought the "no solder" stuff was bunk too until I looked into it further. Hit up google.
You do need a very good crimp on it. Mine is running that way and works great. When I had the whacky bosch connector it ran like crap.
Good luck! Hope the oem one works for you. I'm happy with my universal.
#32
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have heard of electrical fires as a result of soldering O2 sensors to wiring harnesses rather than crimping or splicing. I will try crimping with butt splices this weekend. Right now it's raining here. At least the tarp I threw over the car will keep the water infiltration out this time, which is also why I am going into the CE panel to inspect for water damage there. This season has not been a good one to the 928 so far.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#33
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had not heard of the no solder before. But then again, I refuse to use the universals because there is a reason they are so cheap. They dont work!
#34
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
They do work, when they are wired right. ![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
I don't blame you for refusing to use an universal and gladly take your advice on never using one again.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
I don't blame you for refusing to use an universal and gladly take your advice on never using one again.
#35
Team Owner
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
you can buy a new Bosch O2 sensor here for 77.00
http://jbrlsr.com/?aid=5336118867&bi...dapting-2.html
if you solder or crimp the the wires then the airway for the wire will be damaged, this had been covered before.
Andy before you do any more testing you need to put the correct parts into your car, otherwise you like the rest of us are chasing our tails.
When you cut corners sometimes these are the problems thats occur
http://jbrlsr.com/?aid=5336118867&bi...dapting-2.html
if you solder or crimp the the wires then the airway for the wire will be damaged, this had been covered before.
Andy before you do any more testing you need to put the correct parts into your car, otherwise you like the rest of us are chasing our tails.
When you cut corners sometimes these are the problems thats occur
#36
Race Car
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This was the first thing that I had recommended be checked and fixed and you still havent looked at it.
Drive with it disconnected until you can buy a new PNP unit.
If you cut off the connector that they supply. You need to solder the connectors together. If there is ANY resistance in those leads it will not work properly.
The way the O2 works is fro 0-1V at .5V it is 14.7:1 AFR and that is what it needs. The narrowband (non LSU4) is only accurate at this range. If you add even a 7 ohm resistance to this line the voltage will be off and things will be altered.
Also ensure that the plug by the control panel is clean of all corrosion.
Drive with it disconnected until you can buy a new PNP unit.
If you cut off the connector that they supply. You need to solder the connectors together. If there is ANY resistance in those leads it will not work properly.
The way the O2 works is fro 0-1V at .5V it is 14.7:1 AFR and that is what it needs. The narrowband (non LSU4) is only accurate at this range. If you add even a 7 ohm resistance to this line the voltage will be off and things will be altered.
Also ensure that the plug by the control panel is clean of all corrosion.
https://rennlist.com/forums/7128886-post6.html
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#38
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you don't already have one, you can get a cheap volt meter for less than 1/10th the cost of even a cheap new O2 sensor. Even a cheap meter like that should tell you whether your current sensor is bad, and there are a LOT of other places on a 928 that it'll help you find other problems in the future.
People spend a lot of money just replacing parts, sometimes apparently at random, when trying to solve a problem. It's a whole lot cheaper to test and only replace bad parts than to try to just keep replacing stuff until you eventually find the part that caused the problem. If you're going to take that approach, send me all of those old parts you replaced with new ones that didn't fix the problem.
#39
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
They actually require a waveform read to diagnose.
Because they were original equipment on two of the cars, unknown but appearing original on the other two cars. They have a recommended service life of 60,000 miles pre-OBD II according to Bosch. Replacment is part of my renovation scheme on these sitters that I fix.
Similar with Temp II, Temp I and more recently CPS. Temp/time for sure also on the 16V USA. They have a history of failure, best to replace initially. TPS I can disassemble and clean/repair I've found.
They also get caliper kits whether they need it or not, new brake lines, and new sealing rubber.
The more I learn, though, the more diagnosing I do. Lots more learning to go.
Because they were original equipment on two of the cars, unknown but appearing original on the other two cars. They have a recommended service life of 60,000 miles pre-OBD II according to Bosch. Replacment is part of my renovation scheme on these sitters that I fix.
Similar with Temp II, Temp I and more recently CPS. Temp/time for sure also on the 16V USA. They have a history of failure, best to replace initially. TPS I can disassemble and clean/repair I've found.
They also get caliper kits whether they need it or not, new brake lines, and new sealing rubber.
The more I learn, though, the more diagnosing I do. Lots more learning to go.
#40
#41
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bad or not bad, I'll take the advice given to me in the posts above and continue troubleshooting in the area of the O2 loop. I'm so close to getting this car to run damn good that it's too late to stop now.
#43
Team Owner
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
the universal connector doesnt crimp the wire IIRC
#44
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You are correct Merlin. It is some sort of connector where you insert and 'screw' the wire in. And, I specifically remember having a hard time making sure the wires screwed in right as I remember seeing strands of copper fall out or get crunched. Perhaps that IS THE PROBLEM.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)