Mongo

Crap, I am screwed then...

Open loop is the only way to run it without it acting like it's posessed.

Lizard928

I will ask again,

Have you replaced your generic O2 sensor with a factory PNP unit???

blitz928

If he hasn't may I recommend..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._ya_oh_product

Mongo

I haven't yet. There is a new universal in there still. I'm not in a position right now to pick up another O2 sensor for this thing. The thought that the O2 sensor has never worked until now has crossed my mind though as a universal was in there since 2002 and I may have replaced it with a new one that still doesn't work. It may finally be catching current now, but not enough to read correctly.

On a side note, it's good to know that Bosch 13048 is the same O2 sensor that the factory uses.

fraggle

Make sure you don't use the universal connector that comes with the universal O2 sensor. Head to raduio shack and get some Real crimp connectors. I switched mine out like this and all my nutty idle problems went away.

Landseer

I'm using universal bosch 3 wire as well with crimps.

Are the OEM exact units better?

Mongo

My reason for thinking the OEM unit is better is because you don't have to splice anything in. It comes with the harness and is 'plug-n-play' friendly.

fraggle

Check the crimps again. It should work just fine.

Mongo

I will probably chop that crap harness off Bosch gave me in the universal box and just use plain butt splicers and see if that makes a difference in both crimping and continuity to the LH box.

At worst case scenario, I'm thinking of getting an ROW coding plug and potentiometer to go Euro.

fraggle

Definately chop the garbage they supply.

Landseer

I just splice the old O2 sensor ends onto the new O2 sensor with crimps.

Am still wanting to learn what Colin's concerns are though, as he has tremendous knowledge of the efi systems.

SeanR

Why would you bother to splice in a new O2 when it takes the same amount of time/effort to put in a proper one for little money?

Landseer

The universals are $35 and I needed 4 of them.
Exact replacements have longer wires and the right connectors to mate to the car, but cost $140 each.
So, saved $420

Lizard928

This was the first thing that I had recommended be checked and fixed and you still havent looked at it.

Drive with it disconnected until you can buy a new PNP unit.

If you cut off the connector that they supply. You need to solder the connectors together. If there is ANY resistance in those leads it will not work properly.
The way the O2 works is fro 0-1V at .5V it is 14.7:1 AFR and that is what it needs. The narrowband (non LSU4) is only accurate at this range. If you add even a 7 ohm resistance to this line the voltage will be off and things will be altered.

Also ensure that the plug by the control panel is clean of all corrosion.

Mongo

I did look at it and I pretty much replaced it with the same type, a universal. Nevertheless I WILL be getting an OEM O2 in the near future as I have to smog the car in 2 weeks. Before I buy anything else (as I have repeatedly done in the past) I want to cut and resplice it correctly as stated in the above posts to see if my idle issues go away.


Electrical is on my agenda for Superbowl Sunday this weekend. Beer and wiring suits my taste more than the two teams in it at this moment.