Quick question on removing the plugs to drain the coolant from the block. On my Toyota Sequoia people in general leave the bolts alone because they have a habit of breaking.

What caution is recommended on the 928? Anyone use any lubricating / loosening compounds? Any special techniques?

Thanks all,
Dave

 

I didn't have an issue with mine but I'd recommend using (as with all fastners) good fitting sockets and wrenches..............13mm IIRC.

Be careful with placement of your coolant catch pail..............the stuff goes everywhere. A kids paddling pool is effective.

 

Use a good quality 6-point socket on a 1/2" drive breaker bar - the plug(s) can sound like a pistol shot when they release.
While the plugs seal on a compressed flat disc gasket, it is worthwhile to wrap the threads with plumbers teflon tape prior to reinstall: this does nothing for sealing, but surely helps for the next block draining adventure ...

 

+1 Use the right tool I used a long-handle cresent wrench the first time and rounded them off. I ended up buying a bolt extractor from Sears to get the damn thing out. What a PITA!

I also use Permetek anti-seize on the threads when I put them back in.

 

Use some Teflon pipe sealing compound on the threads going back in, and let the compound seal up the thread path rather than having to tighten until the washer alone does the job. Options include Hylomar or Yama-Honda-whatever-bond sealers too. I'm not a fan of using tape only because you can't control where the shreds go inside the motor, and you can't use it on the washer faces like you can with a paste sealer.

To avoid getting a huge bath, be sure to leave the reservoir cap and the radiator tank drain plug installed until you get almost all of the coolant out of the block. It really slows the flow and the cuts down on the mess. I put a large dishpan on top of a bucket, so the pan is up cls to the drain port. That really cuts down on the splashing and the mess.

 

I like the bucket tip Dr Bob - needed swimming trunks last coolant change!

 

On my 87 they were stuck fast.. tried 6-point sockets, 12-point ring's, and more including heat, freeze spray and more. Got one out eventually, but the other I just rounded the heck out of.

In the end, I used a drill to make a nice indent on the side of the rounded head, and used a punch and large hammer to just beat it in the undo direction until it started moving. Once it had turned 90 degrees or so, it came undone using finger's, and a huge amount of sediment came out too with the coolant that was in there.

 

Bobs tip works in reverse also..............to increase the drainage flow open all the 'taps' so when changing the oil I remove the filler cap and dipstick.

I also raise the passenger side higher to fully drain the oil pan........but that's the **** engineer in me

 

I would reinstall the plug per the instructions in the WSM which specifies a torque value and coating of the threads using a copper anti-seeze lubricating compound.

If you don't drain the block, you will have significant quanity of coolant left in the system, which makes mixing new coolant pure guess work.

 

and it is not hard at all to flush. It is just messy. Use a really large flat catch bin and hold it as close as possible or use a large funnel and a hose. Carefuyl withh that plug in nthe radiator. It breaks easily. Niot too expensive, maybe replace it when you're doing the flush.
regards
Theo