James-man

Just read the Leeroy thing. That is good!

BC

It didn't seem to affect the cap.

blown 87

Mine have been off a few times, not a dent on them, so I will take your word that a air hammer does not do a thing to a cap.

chrly924s

+1 I've had 1 for years. you still end up w/grease all over your hands plus the greasy bearing packer. Do it by hand and eliminate 1/2 the mess.

dr bob

I have the the classic double-funnel packer that you use with a grease gun. Used it a lot for CV joints on the aircooled cars, once in a while on wheel bearings. It works great and it is easier than the palm-and-squeeze method. Keeping it clean is really easy-- Drop it back in it's dedicated ZipLock bag and back into the drawer.

Reality these days is that I might do a front wheel bearing clean-pack-adjust once a year or less. I'd spend more time just looking for another tool than it takes to pack them by hand. I keep mine in the plastic storage box with the grease. Wherever that is...

davek9

+ 1 on the “by hand” method, and if you have over 100k on the car I would take a look and re-grease. I think I waited to about 120k, and should have checked them sooner there was plenty of grease but the hub was not full.

With front wheel off the ground and wheel still mounted on car, check for movement by pushing and pulling at 12 and 6 o’clock, if none great, but I would still clean and re-grease.
I have been using the Red Mobil 1 synthetic on the few that I have done.

I don’t see how an air hammer wouldn’t damage the caps, I use the muff clamps and pry on them, but know of at least one 928 that will most likely need an air hammer due to salt 

Good question

blown 87

You do not want to hit one with a good long throw Snap-On air hammer.

davek9

BrendanC, just what type of Air Hammer did you use please ? As we may all have a different idea of an Air Hammer.

Thanks!

Ducman82

i can see how an air hammer could be used to seat the cap, but take it off? i just picture a chisel bit....

auzivision

So I see service intervals range as often as almost annually to once every 100K miles. I’m at 110K and never checked it myself so I’m due.

I did bearings job once before on a different car. The biggest concern I had with packing them by hand was I wasn’t sure I was getting the grease up in the rollers good. The mess didn’t bother me.

The other concern I had was how tight to spin the collar. Too tight and they bind… too loose and you have play. I hand spun with a screw driver till snug and tapped with a hammer about an 1/8 or 1/4 turn more… then I sold the car.

I guess I’ll practice again on my truck next and give this gizmo a whirl.

dr bob

Some thoughts:

The hub does not need or want to be full of grease. If it's full, it will weep grease as it warms up, and will suck in water when splashed or even partially submereged. Leave a LOT of air space in there and that won't happen.

The bearing adjustment is detailed in the WSM. I propose with newly packed bearings that you need to 'seat' the bearing and push the grease back some from the roller face, so I usually tighten the nut to say 20 lbs/ft and sping the rotor by hand a few times. Loosen the nut and rotate again a few tiimes so the rollers carry a small film of grease with them into the cups. Then slowly tighten the nut, testing as you turn to make sure you can still move the flat washer between the nut and the bearing, using a screwdrive but not prying. Just pushing on one side then the other. Snug it up until the washer is tough to move, back off just enough to allow the washer to float, and you have it correct. Use a flat-blade screwdriver in the split in the nut rather than a wrench as you do this adjustment, and you won't go overboard like you do with a wrench on the flats.