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Old 05-16-2010, 03:31 PM
  #31  
SharkSkin
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I agree with the help you've been offered above, especially about vacuuming down the system before charging. Any competent AC tech should have been able to determine that the system was leaking just from doing a proper vacuum test. Pay no attention to the luck they've had with other cars. You should check out the local recommendation you were given.
Old 05-16-2010, 04:12 PM
  #32  
jmrjames
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Here is an afterthought. If the system was R12 before and they have added R134 you could have a problem especially with the compressor oil. Stick with R12 if you can but use the green O rings anyway.
Old 05-16-2010, 04:41 PM
  #33  
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Hi Z,

I just went through all this on my '88 S4.

The system wouldn't hold a charge, but when it was charged it did blow cold air.

1) I had the system, front and rear AC units o-rings replaced.
2) Replaced both expansion valves

The system cooled, but after a few days it lost its charged. When I talked with the garage, I found that they didnt check it for leaks the first time. So I took it back and they used the UV dye and also a "sniffer" (some electronic device that smells the freon) and found a misshaped o-ring (one of the new ones) and replaced it and sealed it all up.

FYI - You can buy a filter/dryer for $15-$40 if you check online. The place I bought mine was a TechChoice Parts for only ~$15, site is http://www.techchoiceparts.com/. I also replaced my compressor from the same.

I hope this helps.

VTY,
Joe Taylor
Old 05-17-2010, 03:03 AM
  #34  
Z928328
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Hello all-I'm bring this car this wed to a different shop which is recommend by the mechanic who did my Timing belt. I would like to visit the shop recommended by Asiandude.

HA - isn't that something!

Maybe here is a hint on where to take another close look! My first 928 also had a leak at the rear AC - I just don't remember what exactly leaked there.
Nicole, LOL.. Yes the rear AC might have some leakage. When I was buying the car during the sales- I was even aware of the rear AC & no sunroof option. LOL..
I
recommend you take the car to Ivan at Newera airconditioning, located at the bottom of Jln Telanai on the approach to Bunut. He knows his stuff and is priced competitively. Refer back to my earlier reply; my car has suffered failuire of the HP hose, expansion valve and evaporator (on seperate occasions) it is also low mileage, the heat and humidity out here can cause lots of problems! I changed the evap myself a few months ago (it had started leaking from within the fins and was unrepairable) it's a straightforward job on a 928 IMO,
Best, Joe.
hello Joe- Thanks -I will check that out but I will go to what the RNF mechanic recommend me.
Well- If I do recall you said your car is from Thomas? Maybe he parks the car outside for a long time & cause the coil to rust?

I think you already reached this conclusion - don't even consider work to replace the evaporator unless it can be proven that this is the source of the leak... not their guess but proof. Not only is is a big expense and time consuming but many other things can get damaged taking the dash apart - especially by somebody who has no idea what they are doing...

I agree the evaporator is one of the least likely leak sources...

Alan.
Yep- i'm going to ask them to install the parts I bought from Roger.

That is ridiculous. Loosing a full A/C charge in 1 - 2 days means the leak is HUGE. You could probably hear it with just your ears when full. It's hard to believe a shop would not be able to pinpoint such a leak within 15 minutes with a leak detector. I was able to hear a leak in mine that lost a full charge in 2 weeks, and that was at the top of the compressor where I couldn't really get my ears to (it was one of the valve cores
Yes- It's a big leak & I hate the AC shop always recommends me to change the evaporator without any checking for leaks which is a huge task to change like what Nicole said- They want to make money.

That is a shame that this shop is considered to have expertise with any kind of AC system. Their method seems to be to add freon and pray. Then keep trying other things until they get it.

Given the fact that the AC system had not been run since 1993 they should have never just charged it and let you go.

They should have done the following:

1) Replaced all of the O rings. Look at their condition from your photo and this statement is evident.

2) Replace the Drier / Receiver. This should be done with each major system work.

3) Replace the Expansion Valves. Also as to why in 2 above.

4) Checked that the compressor was functioning properly and has the proper amount of oil.

5) Replace any hoses that look bad.

6) Vacuum down the system and see if it holds. Meaning No or Minimal Leaks.

7) Place a small charge of freon in the system and then use an electronic detector to sniff out any problems. Much better method than soap bubbles or dye.

8) No leaks found then fully charge the system. Otherwise investigate areas where the detector indicated further problems.

I hope that I may have condensed the advice from the others with this list. If I missed anything then someone should be able to correct my outline.

Best of Luck and hope that the next place knows what they are doing
James, Yes- Will gonna to replace what's recommend & also the hoses- Roger said it's cheaper to rebuild than buy from him. The compressor works well(Very smooth- & no clunking sound.)

I agree with the help you've been offered above, especially about vacuuming down the system before charging. Any competent AC tech should have been able to determine that the system was leaking just from doing a proper vacuum test. Pay no attention to the luck they've had with other cars. You should check out the local recommendation you were given.
________
I was referring to the other cars because they were stored in the same Air conditioned garage since 93 & have almost similar miles. I hope the shops do have the dye. to detect the leaks.

Here is an afterthought. If the system was R12 before and they have added R134 you could have a problem especially with the compressor oil. Stick with R12 if you can but use the green O rings anyway.
They did use R12. R12 is available easily.

Hi Z,

I just went through all this on my '88 S4.

The system wouldn't hold a charge, but when it was charged it did blow cold air.

1) I had the system, front and rear AC units o-rings replaced.
2) Replaced both expansion valves

The system cooled, but after a few days it lost its charged. When I talked with the garage, I found that they didnt check it for leaks the first time. So I took it back and they used the UV dye and also a "sniffer" (some electronic device that smells the freon) and found a misshaped o-ring (one of the new ones) and replaced it and sealed it all up.

FYI - You can buy a filter/dryer for $15-$40 if you check online. The place I bought mine was a TechChoice Parts for only ~$15, site is http://www.techchoiceparts.com/. I also replaced my compressor from the same.

I hope this helps.

VTY,
Joe Taylo
r

Hello Joe,
Your problem seems similar to mine. & I hope my AC problem is just change the O rings & expansion valve & Drier.
My receiver drier is a nice looking black unit is from Roger & the brand is Parker. Never seen that brand over here.

WISH ME LUCK Eveyrbody I will report back after wednsesday.

Z
Old 05-17-2010, 05:08 AM
  #35  
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If they do not have an electronic detector to sniff out leaks then look for another place that has one. The dye only works for the places that you can see.

Ask them how they find leaks before you hand over the car.
Old 05-17-2010, 12:38 PM
  #36  
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What special solder did you use?

thanks!


Originally Posted by SQLGuy
That's normal. Air will still blow through as long as the vent is not closed.

Any A/C shop should have a freon leak detector (a little electronic device that senses freon in the air). That should immediately indicate if a leak is coming from the front evaporator.

If it's leaking at the evaporator, that could either be the expansion valve connections (which are outside the passenger compartment, under the splash tray) or from bad/cracked/broken connections in the evaporator itself. If the latter, I would think you'd smell the leak yourself, while driving.

On the other hand, I don't know how the front GTS evaporators were made, but the rear one in my '88 S4 had copper lines pressed into the ends of an aluminum coil, and those connections started leaking after a while. I was able to repair mine with some special solder.

The fact that your shop didn't notice the serious leak in your system before charging (by failure to hold vacuum) or after charging (by "sniffing" for leaks) makes me think you should be checking for alternate shops.

Cheers,
Paul
Old 05-17-2010, 02:05 PM
  #37  
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Muggy Weld Super Alloy 1. Runs about $50 for a starter kit.

http://www.muggyweld.com/1aluminum.html

Previous thread here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...a-c-leaks.html

Cheers,
Paul
Old 05-19-2010, 09:08 AM
  #38  
Z928328
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Well- I need I need to overhaul the AC system- My car won't even hold the charge for 5-6 hrs.

No obvious leaks in the engine & rear expansion valve is leaking- So change that & still leaks out freon.
All O rings replaced- Front & rear expansion valve & Receiver drier.
I'm getting the evaporator, change the hoses.etc..


THIS IS SO FRUSTRATING!!!
Z
Old 05-19-2010, 09:14 AM
  #39  
Nicole
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It's more likely the hoses than the evaporator. I'd replace those first.
Old 05-19-2010, 09:37 AM
  #40  
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I want to replace everything... & think no more about this. hehe...
Old 05-19-2010, 10:01 AM
  #41  
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This Mon- I will bring my car to the shop & see where did the UV dye go. But for the peace of mind- I want to change all of it.. I hate seeing leaks leaks leaks.

Z
Old 05-19-2010, 11:08 AM
  #42  
SQLGuy
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Did you look at this thread that I mentioned earlier? https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...a-c-leaks.html

I bet you have the same leak(s) that I did at the rear evaporator squid.
Old 05-19-2010, 11:12 AM
  #43  
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^^ The rear expansion valve did leak when they check it- So they change it- So more possibilities is at the rear evaporator- I think I can smell something coming out from there? Weird smell.

Hmm... Just a question- Is it possible to disconnect the rear AC- I mean not using it anymore?hehe..
Old 05-19-2010, 11:44 AM
  #44  
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It would be possible to disconnect the lines at the bottom/back of the engine and cap them.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 05-19-2010, 12:09 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by dprantl
It would be possible to disconnect the lines at the bottom/back of the engine and cap them.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
I don't think that would be the best place to disconnect them. It would be easier and clearer, I think, to cap them off under the passenger seat, where they pass through the floor.


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