Raining hard, won't turn off, electrical smell
#17
Team Owner
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learning how the switches work is key, in particular the rear defroster you can push it on, or twist it on.
Then there is the possibilty of the relay failing as Jon pointed out.
Push on is a timed sequence, and the twist is manual on.
The only way to shut off the automatic cars without damaging other systems is to pull the fuel pump fuse, if the key wont shut off the engine.
If the key wont shut the engine off then turn it back on so the power isnt back feeding the system, then remove the fuse
Then there is the possibilty of the relay failing as Jon pointed out.
Push on is a timed sequence, and the twist is manual on.
The only way to shut off the automatic cars without damaging other systems is to pull the fuel pump fuse, if the key wont shut off the engine.
If the key wont shut the engine off then turn it back on so the power isnt back feeding the system, then remove the fuse
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 01-21-2010 at 01:16 PM.
#19
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#21
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#23
Electron Wrangler
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If you want a switch to assure you can stop the engine you need it to be between the alternator and ignition supply & ECU's - the jump post would be a logical place - however it won't be a battery switch in other respects - e.g. located there it will not isolate the battery from many other things in the vehicle.
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 01-21-2010 at 09:32 PM.
#24
Race Car
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If it were me, I wouldn't be messing with a switch for the alternator/battery. I would just make a switch for the fuel pump. No fuel means the car stops running fast.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
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#25
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I would just make a switch for the fuel pump. No fuel means the car stops running fast.
Still want a battery switch for all the other things that can go wrong.