Clutch goes to floor
01-10-2010, 03:42 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Sorry to hijack this thread, but currently I am also having a major pita clutch problem. I've searched, but have not found a solution to my problem. Recently my clutch has been encountering a slight drag, but in the last week it has continued to progress to the point where at a stop it refuses to go into any gear. At first I believed it was my synchros, but after it refused to go into reverse I knew it was the clutch. I can still hear the TT spinning slightly so I know it is dragging. The weird thing is if I start the car with the clutch pushed in, it will engage any gear without grinding, but if I start the car with the clutch engaged and push the clutch to disengage the car refuses to go into any gear. The car is currently jacked up. The master and slave are new along with the infamous blue hose; also the flex line between the master and slave is new. They’re no leaks in the system anywhere. We bled the system for an hour yesterday using a power bleeder and the pump the master method. The clutch pedal is very firm throughout it's travel, so I do not believe air is an issue. Also looking through the inspection hole the slave piston completes its travel. So this makes us believe it is something in the clutch itself. We've tried the devek method to adjust the three adjusters for the intermediate plate, but it was to no avail. I'm out of ideas. So my question is should we try adjusting the intermediate plate again or drop the clutch and examine the components? This is really begining to frustrate me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
01-10-2010, 09:15 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Just an update on my issue. I ended up dropping the clutch today and found out the previous clutch job that was performed, the a-hole forgot to put grease and anit-sieze on the short shaft.
Due to this a groove was formed on the shaft and caused disk 1 to rub on the intermidiate plate causing the clutch drag.
Due to this a groove was formed on the shaft and caused disk 1 to rub on the intermidiate plate causing the clutch drag.
01-11-2010, 03:15 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Ouch. If it was badly worn you might want to replace the disks in addition to the shafts. If the female spline is worn unevenly it will wear grooves in the new shaft at an accelerated rate.
01-14-2010, 11:10 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lake Placid, FL
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I went to NAPA today and they no longer sell the Clutch Master kits anymore...I'm not sure if any 928 vendors do I'll look. I'll also test the TT vs TOB issue next time I'm in the car. 928 obsession's problem seemed identical to mine though...just mine is not as severe. I'm hoping clutch master reseal and new fluid fixes that as well as the falling to the floor clutch.
As a side note...i put a new ignition switch in today and my car feels as if its running way stronger...best I've ever felt it. Seems more power in the low RPMs I didn't expect that.
As a side note...i put a new ignition switch in today and my car feels as if its running way stronger...best I've ever felt it. Seems more power in the low RPMs I didn't expect that.
02-16-2010, 05:27 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Heres the rebuild kit. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50062+2062025
Leave the master IN THE CAR and remove the guts from under the dash. I promise you will thank me later. Replacing the clutch master is a MAJOR pain in the a$$. Doing it this way will save you many hours of cursing.
Leave the master IN THE CAR and remove the guts from under the dash. I promise you will thank me later. Replacing the clutch master is a MAJOR pain in the a$$. Doing it this way will save you many hours of cursing.
Thanks,
Rod
Ok, I just read post 19, never mind. ;-(
Rod
