Hi Everyone,

I'm going to loosen the flex plate next year and check it all for the first time, and I have some real noobie questions...

I believe the bolt that holds the clamp tight is an allen headed bolt, so what do I need to add to my torque wrench to be able to torque it up? Obviously not a socket, but what is the name of the bit that you use? Also, what is the procedure for turning the engine round to be able to get at the bolt? I presume a breaker bar + socket on the main pulley bolt from underneath the car? (clockwise of course!) What size is that bolt, and do the spark plugs need to be removed aswell to be able to turn it round?

Any Other Advice Appreciated,
Rawky

P.S. Is it worth investing in a PKlamp aswell to make it all extra safe?

 

The crank socket is 27mm, a deep socket or a short socket w/ short extension will work, place a long pipe on a good 1/2" drive Ratchet, no need to remove any spark plugs.

They make Allen (hex heads) on Sockets, you should be able to buy a set that contains several, I’m thinking that one is an 8 or 10mm w/o looking it up

Can’t comment on the PKlamp, not sure what you mean about “safe”.

If you have an Ox sensor, take care of the wires when removing/lowering the down pipes.

 

Firstly, one must remove the six M8 bolts that secure the lower bellhousing cover .... if you loosen the back two, and reach in with a hacksaw blade, they can be cut off: otherwise, one must drop the CAT/exhaust/O2 sensor/ .... guess which is easier to do

The engine is turned with a 27mm socket on a 1.5" extension on a 1/2" drive ratchet fitted to the front crank pulley bolt.

The pinch bolt is a M8 Allan socket head .... so either 3/8" or 1/2" drive gear with that size hex bit in a socket is req'd.

Use a set of vernier calipers to measure the flexplate coupling distance to your reference point on the prop shaft prior to loosening - then loosen, and watch the flexplate move back ~3mm ( typical).
Now is the easy time to measure crankshaft end float if desired: if not, retorque the pinch bolt to 65ft.lbs max.
Replace the lower bell cover - use shorter bolts in the two rearward holes .... or leave them out: they are not structural IMHO.

Use SEARCH for more info - many have posted on this, as have I several years ago in more detail.

Car well supported and safely blocked in the air is a good first step.

PS: what is a PKlamp??

 

FWIW, I am adding the pKlamp. I believe you want to torque both about 65 ft/lbs. Don't quote me on that.

 

Invest in a dial gauge and a magnetic foot while you're at it, the are to be had fairly cheap on ebay. Use it to measure the end play. Need a crow bar to move the flexplate. And yes, get a pklamp, it's cheap insurance.

 

I hadn't realised, btu yes I'll get a set of those. All I meant by safe was lowering the risk of TBF

When youve cut the heads off, wont that leave you with two headless studs? How do you get them out then?

For the pinch bolt, will I need an extension aswell?

Cheers
Rawky

 

Roger sells them. (928srus.com) (PKlamp installation manual)

If you get a PKlamp, I recommend also getting a new bolt, and torquing it to the original spec of 57 ftlbs. There's no need for overtightening with a PKlamp.

BTW: you can turn a cold engine around with your hands on the starter ring gear (use gloves). Always turn clockwise as if facing the front of the engine, ie. CCW when facing the rear!

 

Sorry Ken I read it as "PK LAMP" it is the "P KLAMP" that he was talking about.

Yes, anything that will stop/aide that SOB from moving is worth it's weight in gold !

 

You need the bolt 931 421 240 00 we sell for $7.80 or contact your local seller.
PKlamp is $85.

 

After you cut the heads off and drop the cover the studs will screw out by hand. To replace, just leave the two rear bolts off, you don't need them. Next time the cover will come off a whole lot easier.


You shouldn't need an extension to remove the pinch bolt, just turn the flywheel till it is accessible.

 

If you lower the exhaust, you might want to have 6 new nut/bolts and 2 new metal gaskets available for reinstallation.

Then you don't have to hack through the two bell housing bolts. You could decide to leave them out so future inspections would not require dropping exhaust to remove bell housing.

 

NB. There is also the chance that the bolts have already been left out! Well I'll have to wait and see. Ill get all the bits ordered in the New Year.

Cheers Everyone

 

[QUOTE=Landseer;7184230]If you lower the exhaust, you might want to have 6 new nut/bolts and 2 new metal gaskets available for reinstallation.

Then you don't have to hack through the two bell housing bolts. You could decide to leave them out so future inspections would not require dropping exhaust to remove bell housing.[/QUOTE

Agree with Landseer about those two bolts.

We have driven many years and thousands of miles with no ill effects, even on our track car without those two bolts. Makes checking the flexplate so much easier...

Good luck with your check, hopefully all is well in there.

Cheers,

 

This is worded badly.
As one who has also described this badly, let me point out that if you are at the front of the car looking at the engine, your POV would be facing rear: turn it clock-wise. If you were under the car dealing w/ the flexplate you would be facing forward and only turning it Counter-Clock-Wise.

 

I understood it, so it wasn't that bad.