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Injectors not firing / No Start

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Old 12-29-2009, 09:46 PM
  #16  
davek9
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Originally Posted by jcorenman
Interesting!! What about pulling the kickdown relay for a quick test, to see if it starts?

OOOPS, never mind-- it's a 5-speed!
But if it was an Auto.. pulling the relay would rule out a bad relay, due to the relay was mucking up the signal. There is more in that relay than a simple magnetic switch
Old 12-29-2009, 09:53 PM
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davek9
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Originally Posted by jcorenman
Dave,

Nice picture, but I'm confused here. The sound-card input is AC-coupled, with a low-end frequency response of maybe 10Hz. So wouldn't a low-frequency square-wave look something like this?

No actually the signal looks just as the book shows, this software is made to use a sound card (the divider I built was a bit under 1/2 (.5) volts) and works really great for this type of work.

In this pic the signal is being pulled down form a bad component in the Kick Down Relay. (there are several).
Old 12-29-2009, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by davek9
No actually the signal looks just as the book shows, this software is made to use a sound card (the divider I built was a bit under 1/2 (.5) volts) and works really great for this type of work.

In this pic the signal is being pulled down form a bad component in the Kick Down Relay. (there are several).
Cool! That's slick, I'm off to try it. Thanks for sharing!!

Old 12-29-2009, 10:06 PM
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dbrown928
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I could use an internal pic of the voltage divider. Did you use a prefab circuit board or solder in line with wire?
Old 12-29-2009, 10:07 PM
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davek9
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OK I found what a good one looks like and even a vid while running :0
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Old 12-29-2009, 10:25 PM
  #21  
davek9
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Originally Posted by dbrown928
I could use an internal pic of the voltage divider. Did you use a prefab circuit board or solder in line with wire?
I'll have to look, I know I have it.
I just twisted them together and soldered them, then connected them to the phone jacks that I mounted to the box, butt ugly but I just wanted to be sure I could not short anything while using it., I have the drawing w/ values but it is easy to recalc.
Old 12-29-2009, 10:52 PM
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Many thanks.

Everyone's input is greatly appreciated here.

More testing tomorrow.
Old 12-29-2009, 11:24 PM
  #23  
Tails
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With regards to a graphic of the CE panel, Alan Moore produced a "Porsche 928 Wiring Diagram Primer for the 1987S4s thru to 1995GTSs which shows the CE and connections and plugs and how to read the electrical drawings.

It can be downloaded from the web by googling it and suing the following:

Wiring Diag. Primer3 Apr 2009 ... Wiring Diagram Primer. - Available For Free Download. This is a small sub-set of the full document - "Porsche 928 Electrics". ...
http://www.928-electrics.com/wiring%...%20primers.htm

Davek9, great information re the oscilliscope via note book. I need to make one pronto to check out a few of my wave forms. Thanks.

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
Old 12-30-2009, 03:30 AM
  #24  
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Davek9

Voltage Divider. Could you please post the drawing with values.

Thanks,
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto.
Old 12-30-2009, 08:47 AM
  #25  
John Speake
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Originally Posted by dbrown928
Many thanks.

Everyone's input is greatly appreciated here.

More testing tomorrow.
If tach doesn't move, then you have no rpm signal to pin 1 LH ECU. In that case, the FPR will not be energised but that contradicts what you stated at the beginning of this thread ?

Please double check.

Are you sure you don't have a relay plugged into the kick down relay position ?
Old 12-30-2009, 09:56 AM
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dbrown928
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RPM signal through the CE panel will be the focus of this evenings testing. I will triple check the kickdown relay position to ensure it is empty.

The 928 electrics primer is a goldmine. I am happily signing up for the full document from Alan. Thinking about the years of experience and input in there it must be phenomenal. The price is nothing compared to weeks of frustration and a car that won't start.
Old 12-30-2009, 10:04 AM
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davek9
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OK working via remote VPN from home again today, I'll post the parts and a drawing here and also a short vid of a running signal on youtube under "crazy928guy" me

edit :
I'm going to get Alan's book, he has helped me many a time
Old 12-30-2009, 11:59 AM
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mark kibort
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I hate to hijack this thread, but I have no RPM on the tach, but the car runs fine. does that mean that im not getting a signal from the LH or EZK to run the tach?

Here is a pic of the LH outputs. with more detail.

great stuff here boys! thanks
mk

Originally Posted by John Speake
If tach doesn't move, then you have no rpm signal to pin 1 LH ECU. In that case, the FPR will not be energised but that contradicts what you stated at the beginning of this thread ?

Please double check.

Are you sure you don't have a relay plugged into the kick down relay position ?
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:15 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
I hate to hijack this thread, but I have no RPM on the tach, but the car runs fine. does that mean that im not getting a signal from the LH or EZK to run the tach?
Yes, or your tach is dead.

Cheers, Jim
Old 12-30-2009, 12:17 PM
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John Speake
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
I hate to hijack this thread, but I have no RPM on the tach, but the car runs fine. does that mean that im not getting a signal from the LH or EZK to run the tach?

Here is a pic of the LH outputs. with more detail.

great stuff here boys! thanks
mk
Hi Mark, you are always the exception to the general rule :-)

In your case, the problem will be the link from pin 1 LH on fuse/relay panel to the tach in the dash, or no power to the tach....... etc.

If you look at the circuit of the fuse/relay panel for your MY car then you should be able to identify which connector/pin at the bottom of the panel carries that rpm signal to your dash pod.


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