Not Good Lug Problem
#1
Racer
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Not Good Lug Problem
Started taking the car apart and found a nasty surprise. (2) of the lug nuts are broken at the base with no way of getting a wrench on them. The wheel is scrap anyway so what is the best way to extract this mess.
Option one is the Sawzall and just cut the wheel off till you get down to the darn thing. Any less drastic Ideas? Is there a cutter to shave the lug not off the stud?
Picture shows the whole lug nut and the broken one in the hub.
Thanks, thought this was going to be a one day project then off to get the wheels aligned.
Option one is the Sawzall and just cut the wheel off till you get down to the darn thing. Any less drastic Ideas? Is there a cutter to shave the lug not off the stud?
Picture shows the whole lug nut and the broken one in the hub.
Thanks, thought this was going to be a one day project then off to get the wheels aligned.
#2
Chronic Tool Dropper
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George-
That looks like a whole lugnut on the ground. Is there another part of a nut in there on bolt? Looks like there's at least part of a hex end showing. Maybe a thinner-walled socket might get enough of it. The ends of most sockets are tapered some inside to 'lead' the socket onto a bolt or nut. For some similar projects I've ground the front lead taper off so the end of the sockket is tight right away with the shallow penetration. Sockets are relatively cheap to sacrifice for this.
If you end up with the hole saw trick, go slowly and inspect a lot on the way. You really don't want to cut into the wheel metal at all if you can avoid it.
Good luck! And report back with what works for you.
That looks like a whole lugnut on the ground. Is there another part of a nut in there on bolt? Looks like there's at least part of a hex end showing. Maybe a thinner-walled socket might get enough of it. The ends of most sockets are tapered some inside to 'lead' the socket onto a bolt or nut. For some similar projects I've ground the front lead taper off so the end of the sockket is tight right away with the shallow penetration. Sockets are relatively cheap to sacrifice for this.
If you end up with the hole saw trick, go slowly and inspect a lot on the way. You really don't want to cut into the wheel metal at all if you can avoid it.
Good luck! And report back with what works for you.
#3
Racer
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My bad on the description. Look at the WHOLE lug the TAPERED piece is what is on the wheel still,, the HEX part is 100% gone.
The wheel is scrap, it is the one that got wiped out when the PO got hit in the parking lot and is NOT repairable in any way.
I have NO problem destroying the wheel just do not want to wipe out the stud or the hub.
Thanks for the reply. I am looking in Harbor Freight for a whole cutter or ? tool to cut away the rim and then I can put vise grips on and remove the wheel nut.
PS: the SHINY HEX is where the top part broke off and is NOT a hex surface to grab.
The wheel is scrap, it is the one that got wiped out when the PO got hit in the parking lot and is NOT repairable in any way.
I have NO problem destroying the wheel just do not want to wipe out the stud or the hub.
Thanks for the reply. I am looking in Harbor Freight for a whole cutter or ? tool to cut away the rim and then I can put vise grips on and remove the wheel nut.
PS: the SHINY HEX is where the top part broke off and is NOT a hex surface to grab.
#5
Nordschleife Master
Get a narrow metal chisel on it and beat it counter clockwise.
#6
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I have NOT found a metal whole saw set yet. I have looked on line at Sears and Harbor Freight.
Thank you.
#7
Nordschleife Master
OK, what type of whole saw, being pickey since I have a set of WOOD whole saws. Since I am going into Aluminum in the wheel can I use a Diamond saw from Harbor freight for cutting marble?
I have NOT found a metal whole saw set yet. I have looked on line at Sears and Harbor Freight.
Thank you.
I have NOT found a metal whole saw set yet. I have looked on line at Sears and Harbor Freight.
Thank you.
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#8
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That was alternate plan "B" since the wheel is so deep. Also thought about drilling the darn thing since it is also an alloy and not steel. Called the PO and the shop that mounted the tires and rims BROKE the lugs.
#9
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You can also use a small drill bit and make many holes in the alloy nut then breaking it up with a sharp punch. But the whole saw is pretty easy and it need not be a fancy one just one that slips over the stud.
#12
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Get a real metal-cutting holesaw from Home Depot. They carry the Milwaukee saws IIRC. You'll need to take the pilot drill out obviously. You may want to take a measurement on the stud and transfer it with a caliper to get a saw that just fits over the stud/bolt. The teeth on the blade are 'set' both in and out. If you want to avoid damage to the stud, use a diamond bit in the Dremel to remove the inside of the in-set teeth on the saw so there's nothing to chew on the bolt threads as it spins.