Hi,
I've been reading about the alignment going out of whack when the car is off the ground. So how do I get under the engine? Do I have to use ramps and if so will I need to extend them because of the spoiler. Thanks for your time.
I cant figure out yet how to get to the archives.
Ron

 

You can lift the car off the ground. Don't worry about the alignment. HOWEVER, when doing an alignment you CANNOT lift the car off the ground. You would need to get it laser aligned.

 

"The archives" can be accessed using Search. That's at the top of every page.

The lower control arms are off in their use of a rubber bushing. It takes a set when you lift the car and it'll be a few hundred miles and lots of bumps before it finds its natural position again. Don't worry about it too much. As long as you're not fiddling with the suspension it doesn't matter.

 

Mongo - love that link in your sig - laughed my rear off!

 

You can use ramps. I Made simple ramps in wood and it let me sufficient clearance to get under the car.

It is possible to lift the car but then in order to control again you have to loosen it at the operating level. I did it with a turnbucckle that is mounted side by side on eye bolts, one in the appropriate place in the car juste below the lower arm mounting braket and the other screwed into the ground. Then you just have to screw the turnbuckkle to lower the car until the original height.

Puyi

 

Thanks for clearing this up for me, Ron

 

One very good way is to invest in the Porken lift bars and a set of 4 oversized, say 6 ton, jackstands.

The lift bars allow you to lift the 928 like its a 944 --- in the center of the car with one jack per side, getting both wheels up evenly each time. Lots safer than jacking corners due to rocking and chassis stiffness.

Ramps are good, but I like to get the cars up pretty high.

 

Not sure porken's lift bars can solve the problem of alignement and lifted the front of the car. You are better invested in a 4 columns lift or digged a pit in your garage

Puyi

 

From George Suennem and Ed Ruiz...

When working on my car I needed a easy way to raise the car. I got this idea from Ed Ruiz on the 928 Rennlist:

From eds928s@erols.com (9/30/99)

I made a set of ramps from 2"x10"x96" boards. I cut them to creat a ramped that allows the car to be driven up the ramp without affecting the front spoiler, and it ends up 4.5" off the garage floor. I hope the following illustration helps to show what I did.

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I cut the 96" board into 3', 2' and 1' sections and cut one end of each section at 45 degrees. I nailed the boards as shown above. The cut the remaining piece to fit as a stop, and nailed it to the high end. It may not be elegant, but it works great for oil changes and suspension tweeking that require the wheels to be loaded. Also, the belly pans can be easily accessed and removed while on the ramps.

Merry motoring. Ed

Here's my interpretation:

Ramps

It took about 1/2 an hour to build and cost $7.50 in lumber. Hope this helps.

Jacks
To lift the rear I place my jack under the center of the rear cross member. Once the rear is high enough I place jack stands at the rear jack points. I placed a piece of plywood between the jack and cross member to distribute the weight, some people use a short 2x4.

 

I have done the wood ramps alot for the ratrods we play with and they work great I always have a set in the car just in case, but for my 928s I find its easier just to put a floor jack in from behind the front wheels and lift under the main engine crossmember. There is just enough room to get and older style 2 1/4 ton floor jack in, if there is not enough room I just jack the one side abit to reset the front suspension then it fits fine. If you going to lift the whole car I just jack up and put stands under the back first never had a problem atleast for my early OBs. Oh and if you are really picky just put an old buffing pad in the jack pad to cusion the aluminum crassbar at the back

 

Tailpipe your Avatar looks like my 1984 928 from evil bay!!
From what I am reading the jacking of a 928 can be done as in the shop manuals BUT you are better to use a device, which I never heard of, to be able to pick up the car one side at a time.
I used a modified ATV lift to pick up my 951 using a 2x4 as the contact point between the jack and the car.
Should this work wit the 928 also?
I got the ATV lift from Harbor Freight for around $150.00 or less, old brain not working very well.

 

RSE,

You might check my website on 928 alignment. I do many alignments with the car on turn-plates which are about 1" high. Read all parts of the website, including "Miscellaneous ramblings".

http://members.rennlist.com/captearlg/

 

Nice website. The fires section is sobering - I'm getting an '86 in not to good a shape.
thanks, Ron

 

When I changed my motor mounts, I used Earls website to do my own alignment. I made slip plates from laminate flooring with some dry graphite to give some slip. I had some trouble with the low clearance but got it pretty close. Later I took it to a friends shop with a Hunter machine just to confirm it was OK and I was out a little on the toe in. I guess I learned that it is a job you have to try a couple times to understand the adjustments. Had fun trying.

I should say thanks Earl for your website!

 

When I first got my 84, it was too low for regular ramps (I bought the Rhino ones at Walmart). So, I used the wooden ones mentioned above. If it helps, there's pictures of them on Jorj's site at: http://928.jorj7.com/ But, once I got the ride height back up where it's supposed to be, the regular ramps worked fine.

I see on the 928 Motorsports, Carl has an alternative for jacking the car. Looks like braces that distribute the load so it doesn't crush the bottom rails. http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...jackpoints.php