ubercooper

As you can see below, I have removed the stock windshield (without it shattering ). Now the major obstacle in my way is trying to figure out how to mount the new coated lexan one.

The top section can easily be drilled and bolted in, I'm guessing the a pillar covers come off easily but I'm not about to take the whole dash out to be able to access the bottom. What would be the best way to secure this down?

.... and yes I need a bigger garage

Thanks for the help as always
-Seb

123quattro

Not to rain on your parade, but I really don't think this is a good idea.

ubercooper

care to elaborate?

123quattro

1. the windshield is structural
2. lexan isn't nearly as durable as glass
3. is the lexan you are going to use as shatter proof as the OE glass?
4. glass is much clearer

2 and 3 would be the biggest deal to me. I'm sure you'll probably save 15 pounds, but I would think the lexan windshield will stone chip badly. That, and might not protect you nearly as well if something is trying to come through the windshield.

That said, I'm a big fan of your engine choice.

svp928

The Lexan is bulletproof, but it scratches and dings easily and is considered a replacement item after one race in cars that use them, even with tear-off protectors. So, you better make the mountings with quick-release fasteners and mold a bunch of spares......and its definitely more flexible than glass, so no good as a stressed member....

Its fine for all other windows, as long as you can live with the replacement schedule, and they aren't street-legal.

ubercooper

From Darkhorse racing

also...



Although I'm using 1/4" lexan, its the largest thickness available for windshields.

thanks, not too much love here for a bastard

tell that to the people who did 180 in a TVR race car with one of these and no center support

kccampro

Much love... I'm a big fan of the SBC powered 928. I might have to PM you for some details.

svp928

Seb, what I'm saying is, it isn't going to give the kind of support you get from glass, which is much stiffer as a stressed panel. If you have a full cage, it won't make much difference, but you still need to be cognizant of the fact that the surface is easily damaged and gets to be hard to see through fairly quickly...not trying to be a hater- I've worked on a lot of racecars with Lexan windows-just don't want you to be surprised, and be prepared to replace it often. The Nascar-style tear-offs will help...

I am a fan of the conversion- its kind of hard to follow on your blog. When did you start? Are there pics of the process as you went along? I'd like to see them if you point me to where they are....

Steve

ubercooper

Fair enough. I was originally concerned about how easily it would be scratched but this coated sheet from Percys High Performance is scratch resistant even to steel wool. I was debating tear-offs but they are quite $$ and heard they are not needed with the coated lexan. When I ordered the windshield they said since it was 1/4" the stress isnt enough to make a noticeable difference. Maybe they were bull****ting?

Do you mean the entire motor conversion or just the windshield? I purchased the car after it was already converted then rebuilt the motor from 400hp -> 530hp.

puyi

What you have to looking for is Lexan Margard. It is a sort of lexan which is treated scratch resistant and UV resistant.
We used it on a chevron B16 and after 2 years of racing in CER championship, the windshield is near to perfect condition even with the use of wiper.
Note that the windshield has not be heated at all. It is just screwed around to mount it on the car. If you have to heat it, It seems that you should lose most of the treatment.
Note#2 : polycarbonate windshield is forbidden on GT class FIA championship!

svp928

Seb, sorry, I didn't realize the car was already converted when you got it.....still, a lot of bang for the buck! As for the Lexan- its worth a try...if it doesn't work, you can always put the stock windshield back in. Maybe the new coatings are better than the old...
Good luck!

SwayBar

I need to replace the windshield in my racecar as it is really sandblasted; when driving into the sun, it is very hard to see out of as the entire windshield lights up from all the pitting.

ubercooper

....so does anyone actually have an answer to the original question of how to mount it?

Lizard928

Dont worry about loosing the tiny bit of rigidity from going from glass to Lexan. The 928 tub does not require this and you will see not downside. That said, if it is a street car consider using the same material that they put the origonal windshield in with, and then also use screws around the sides. Most importantly on the a-pillars, the upper and bottom portions will not really need them if you have them in the a-pillars, this will also prevent you from requiring to heat it to obtain the desired bend.

That said, I have not bothered to do this to my track/street car simply due to the need to run a wiper and that stuff does mar easily, even if it doesnt break.

And I would not be worried about the impact issues. That stuff is far more resiliant than glass for that! I had a 1/4" piece of the stuff and it dulled a really sharp center punch and took over 16 hits to get through (with a wood backing) with a good size hammer.

As to the legallity of it, you will need to check your local laws, up here it is not a problem.

mark kibort

Did you notice the weight comparison. 1/2 the weight, and some other interesting qualities. BUT, you need to use twice the thickness to get the rigidity that still wont measure up to glass. so, in the end, 1/4" lexan, vs 1/8" in glass doesnt really save much weight overall. I think I heard from Devek, the net gain was about 5lbs for the change. For race cars, 8 years is what I
got out of mine before it was pocked to death and pepered,but it was still decent at the point it would need replacement.
as far as installation........ best of luck. Im not a windshield installer. I can take them out, but even that is a pain.