PorKen

If one side is off by a few degrees, then setting the cams to the stock ¼:-2|⅝:0 cold will make higher numbers.

Setting them to ¼:+1|⅝:+3 cold should move the tq/hp peaks ~300 rpm higher, and may make higher hp.


All 928 5-speeds are 1:1 (no overdrive) in 5th gear, straight through, so it should be the most efficient. The higher tire speed may be show more drag on a coast down test in 5th vs. 4th, though.


What type of dyno is it?

PorKen

It looks to be a Bosch dyno, which is a loading dyno like Dyno Dynamics. AFAIK, they usually measure lower peak numbers than (the more optomistic ) inertia type like DynoJets.

(www.vontwistern.de/leistungspruefstand.php)

Darklands

The next time we will check the right parameters. ;-) with AFR and wheel HP.

One question:Is the setting of the euro s the same conservative one as the S 3?
Has a LH 2²r/55 based for S2 the same effect?
Need you a S 2 engine from santa claus? ;-)I have a spare engine here. ;-)

I think we must keep a real talent busy.

Richter12x2

What needs to be pulled to get the new '87 fuel pressure regulator in? I just got my new regulator in the mail, and would love to get it installed before dyno day this Saturday, but only have a couple of cumulative hours of daylight to do it in. So I'm trying to decide between getting the chips and regulator installed and hoping nothing goes wrong because may not have time to fix/revert. Or just let this dyno day be a base run.

PorKen

Just the airbox and MAF.

Release pressure at the front cap, first. Stuff towels under all the wires and hoses under the FPR as best you can to soak up the gas which will drain out into the 'V'. (Careful though not to disturb the vacuum lines into the 7-way.)

Don't rush when installing the chips. Make sure the paint marks match on the chips, and the board. (I installed an EZF chip backwards in a hurry way back when on the dyno. E-rased.)

anonymousagain

Richter12x2 - seriously, only ~15min to swap, so definitely do it before the dyno!!

Also, heed Porken's words --> watch the vaccume lines

Rob Edwards

'Nuther view:

Richter12x2

Awesome, I'll be all over that then.

I know I had all that stuff off a few months ago to rebuild the whole thing, but after having to go back and do something I forgot, or chase a stupid bolt I dropped and tear down the whole intake 4 or 5 times before I was happy with it, I wasn't looking forward to it again.

Those Miatas will have to watch out for my bubble butt 928.

Don Carter

This maybe an obvious question but is it ok to install 87 FPR before getting the new chips? (I have ebay chips right now). I have it ready to go in, but am thinking I should replace all the fuel lines at the same time since they are original.

Richter12x2

I doubt it'll start and idle with all the extra fuel and the computer not knowing how to meter it. I know mine does not (FPR is in, but haven't installed the chips yet, just cranked it to check for leaks before putting the airbox back in) but then, mine could have other issues - I don't think so though.

PorKen

With stock/ebay/AT chips, it would run quite rich.

The S4 FPR (55 psi, stock 36 psi) makes the 24# injectors flow as if they were 28# (approx.).

stolarzj

I would change the fuel lines out before putting in the FPR. You are already running on questionable hoses, so the almost doubling of fuel pressure makes them even more vulnerable.

PorKen

Eventually I will put together a manual for the chip install...but I'm easily distracted...and I hate writing manuals!


Fortunately, Richter12x2 made a manual out of his recent install. Thanks Josh!

(LH22r_Richter12x2.pdf 360Kb)


Notes:
The brains are to the right of the fuse panel. There are just two allen head bolts which hold the ECU bracket. Disconnect the harness plugs by pushing in slightly on the wire end of the plug, and releasing the catch. Rotate the plugs out of the ECUs. It may be easier to undo the right hand/LH brain plug after the holder is unbolted.

I recommend keeping the EPROMs in the sockets I supply. It protects the spindly EPROM pins, and makes installation easier. (It also makes swapping easier if I send out an update.) The factory LH EPROM cover is not needed/required.

Richter12x2

That would have been much easier to remove the whole compuer bracket, I just used an 8mm socket and the appropriate hex bit to pull the computers individually, but getting the back screws back in was a nightmare. I didn't pull the bracket because I thought there were two more of those bolts in the back that I couldn't see or get to.

Also:

241.4hp to the wheels 245 lb/ft of torque, bone stock other than the chips and fuel pressure regulator, and that on a slightly slipping tranny. At a ~20% drivetrain loss, that's about 300hp at the crank on a Dynojet, which would be about 12hp over stock. The owner of the shop that did the work said he usually sees closer to 25% loss through an automatic transmission on the new 350z's, so he estimated it was closer to 320hp, but I don't think I'd go that far.

PorKen

The runs are nicely consistent, but I would expect to see higher numbers, even with a cat, and auto.


Dyno guy should start the run at 2000 rpm, because the S3 has peak torque at 2500. (It's a V8, not a flat 6!) The wideband wasn't hooked up or the WOT switch isn't working. The AFR should not be flat at 14.7 at WOT!


Check that the WOT switch works, and also verify that the throttle plate opens all the way when someone pushes the throttle to the floor for you. It might be a good idea to check the cam timing too.