928autobahndreamer

Looks like its time to dive in.

I was driving home from work Sunday and was 99% of the way home. At this point the car was finally warm enough to get the revs up, so i accelerated hard from the stop light.

The Central Warning ! comes on along with the belt tension symbol. Panic sets in and I quickly pull over, but no noises are present so I creep gently home. The car is now parked in the Garage and will get a full exam.

I purchased the car 2 and a half years ago and have been slowly working my way through the maintenance list. I have done a complete intake refresh, all fluids and filters, ect. ect ect.

The timing belt was done approximately 4 years ago when the PO bought the car. He took it to the local Porsche dealership and paid an arm and a leg for the service. When I had my PPI done, the belt was so loose it was fluttering and the PO had been driving with the belt tension light on. He had taken it back to the dealer and was told that the belt didn't need to be retensioned and it was likely a sensor problem. Anyway, I had the belt properly tensioned as part of my PPI/service to make it roadworthy, by an experienced 928 mechanic. He gave me the list that I have been slowly working on to bring this car back to prime condition. He noted that the crank pully had wrench marks on it from counterholding, so I'm guessing the dealership probably didn't know too much about what they were doing when they did the belt service.

So, I am not driving the car until I have completely checked everything out, and will use this opportunity to totally refresh all of the wear parts. This will be my first timing belt job, so I am going to need all the help I can get. So, please be patient with my questions. I tend to take my time and not rush, as I really want to make sure I have everything perfect.

I will also be updating to a Porkensioner and will be getting Ken's timing tool as well.

As a side note, has anyone here used the manual available on Ebay? I seem to remember someone here made it? If so, is there just the 85/86 version or has an 87+ specific version been made? Seems like a steal and will likely be my first purchase as I dig in to inspect.

Thanks for everyone here.


To be continued..............

cali4sun

Good luck on the T/B job might want to do the W/P at the same time. I had one done recently at a Independent Porsche shop cost was not to bad $1500 T/B, W/P, tensioners rebuilt.....

'89 S4 GP White/Black
'912E Silver/Black sunroof

928autobahndreamer

All components will be refreshed including cam gears, rollers, bolts, ect. The only thing I hadn't decided was the waterpump. I'm still on the fence due to the high rate of failures of rebuilt units damaging blocks.

If the WP was replaced 4 years and 6K miles ago, I may just keep it as long as it looks good, especially if it was replaced with a new Porsche unit (I think the POs repair bill for the Timing belt job was over $4,000, the cost had to come from somewhere, I have the reciept and will check out if a new WP was put in $$$$$).

Stromius

The TB/WP/PKT job is very rewarding and helps you better know your 928. I found reading the material on this list, John Kelly Manual and Pritle guide helpful as well as the PorkenTensioner documentation threads (liftbars.com for that link). Bag it as you dissassemble, organize work area and take many pictures.

fraggle

It seems daunting but it actually works out well. Porken's setup is awesome, too.

With the pump, I would get the gasket, pull the pump and inspect it, then put it back if it passes. Check the wear on the cam gears and such, they may not need replacing if the andonization is intact.

928autobahndreamer

My confidence in working on the 928 improved dramatically after completing the intake refresh. I'm hoping this won't take me almost 3 months like that did.

I'll be posting pictures of all the components to get a feel for whether or not they need replacing.

But, first things first. I need to get in there and get the belt covers off.

928 at last

+1 on the Porken setup & John Kelly manual!!
Unless you are a concours...it's gotta be original type of owner, the Porken setup for the tensioner is a true improvement over the stock arrangement. (Just like the ad says....there is no substitute).
John Pirtle's write-up is invaluable too. Read it all a few times before you start, and keep everything organized....it works out fine if you take your time and follow the directions. And as usual, lots of help available here on the forum.
Did mine this spring, and even though it's a '90, the concepts don't change much......
Still bowing down to Roger for his timely help (Sunday, later in the afternoon, and on a Holiday weekend).
(Had an issue with just how much torque could possibly be needed to break the crank bolt free...Trust me, it can be in excess of 300 ft. lbs.) (I was using some serious pressure with about a 5' extension...it worked though finally). (Footnote, for god's sake be careful of your P/S fender doing this...no I didn't but it was close. When it comes free, it does it quickly).
You will absolutely require the flywheel lock to get this done though. (Another thanks to Imre.....and especially for the late Monday help with the distributor centre pin..but that's another story...)

928 at last

Oh, and just for the record, ....first time around, and working really carefully, it was a 28 hour job. Having been there now, I would estimate the next time around would be about 2/3 that. (Being **** and cleaning the entire area etc. etc.) Going at it like I would if I were in the business, substantially less time. (I should mention I have access to a fully equipped shop with a hoist. My hat's off to those guys who do these things on jack stands on a creeper.

jcorenman

Take lots of pictures also, as you disassemble things. It will help during reassembly when you try to remember just which side of the widget that cable was routed...

Good luck, have fun, and please share!

the flyin' scotsman

As well as all the parts get yourself and good 27mm socket for the crank bolt and access to a big torque wrench..........one that goes to 300 ft lbs. Flywheel lock tool to lock the engine.

I also found it advantageous to mark the cam gears at the 45 BTDC; helps with retiming the engine.