Tony H.

!986- 928

I just changed my timing belt and water pump, was my first time and all went great wih the help of many members hear on Rennlists thanks by the way to all who helped me.

I noticed before I even changed any of this stuff that while sitting at idle speed the car would seem to sputter is the best way for me to described it, I removed the air pump during my install of water pump and new belt, since we do not need it in Florida for emmisions.

After I first started the engine with new belt and pump the car seem to run rough like out of time, since then it has cleared up. I thought maybe since the cats are still on the car they may be causing the rough start up, now start up seems fine when cold but when hot seems to turn over more than usaual before starting smells rich like fuel.
Anyway today on the way to work I was sitting at a light and the car seemed to almost buck in a sputter style of what felt like a miss fire.
At running speeds the car seems to run very smooth and not miss at all only sitting still, I did change my plugs during the belt and pump R&R but only cleaned the rotors ends and caps inside tips (cleaned meaning resurfaced with wire wheel), to make them look clean again they had a slight look of burnt when I first took them off, does nayone think that maybe the sputtering may be becuase I need to change the caps and rotors instead of just cleaning them, or could it maybe be something else because of air pump removeal and not taking off cats.

Please keep in mind it did do the same thng before my R&R of belt and pump but today seemed worse, and the car was at operating temp when it was sputtering.

If someone has had a simular problem maybe they can give me some ideas of what to do or to check anyway.

I do not know how to change or even check timing and have no light and even if I did have it would not know how to use it, plus one thread on Rennlist said about adjusting timing on a 32 V engine you would have to be nuts to even try but I would thing there is someway to adjust the timing slightly without taking the whole engine apart to check each valve. Like retard it some or advance it some until it is smooth. but I do not know how to advance or retard it.

With other cars i own in the past I would just loosen the distributor and turn it but this car doesn't seem like that is what you would or could do.

I am very new to all of this so if I am asking stupid things just say so and I will learn what can or can't be done to the car as a tune up or adjustment.

Thanks Tony H.

the flyin' scotsman

Tony............the ignition timing is not adjustable.

Check the simple things first; disti caps, rotors and spark plug wires............a dark garage with engine running is a good way to see errant spark. If the caps and rotors looked 'burnt' replace them.

Check all vacuum line and connectors for tight fitting/no leaks.

Tony H.

Thanks Malcolm?

They did have some burn marks on them when I cleaned them off. So I may need to replace them not cheap I see. But it seems nothing is on the car is so whats new right!!!

Would any of the hose connections that went to the air pump cause any type of vaccum issue all I did was plug the 2 ends that went to the airpump with pvc plugs and hose clamps very tight. I left all other hose's / vacuum's hooked up on the car.

Thanks Tony H.

GlenL

This is most likely ignition.

Make sure the connectors are seated to the caps. Did the rotors or the metal tip from the cap look worn?

I'd put a timing light on each wire and look for missing sparks.

Mrmerlin

I would remove both of the inlet air tubes and run the car in the dark my guess is you will find one or more fireflies, indicating a leaking ignition wire, pay close attention to the both of the coil wires these should both be removed and inspected

WallyP

Get a four-foot piece of rubber or plastic hose, stick one end into your best ear, and use the other end as a probe to listen for the hiss of a vacuum leak. STAY OUT OF THE MOVING PARTS!!

Carefully check the wires from the coils to the distributor caps, including the end connections. Look closely at the wires for any burn marks or tiny holes. Make sure that the wires are not touching any metal or wire harnesses.

CJ8 2 928

Tony I am very new to this . If you can someone to put (what they call the hammer) on it you may find your problem . I have had some what of the same problem & one of the problems was the hall sensor...
good day sir & good luck..

antsmands

Hello Tony and All;

I am having a similar problem of a small misfire at idle. Checked the timing and its good. Thanks for the tip of checking for an errant spark in the dark. Why didn't I think of that? I'll try tonight an let you know. By the way I think I saw somewhere on the forum that a bad alternator can cause an engine misfire. Have you checked your alternator?

Good Luck

PorKen

Have you checked/set the idle speed and done a MAF CO adjustment?

Also, check if the throttle position switches inputs are getting to the ignition and fuel brains. ('85-'86 have an extension cable for the TPS which usually has one connector that has crumbled.) If the idle input is not getting to the ignition brain/EZF, there will be too much advance at idle, which will make for a stumbling idle.

The EZF connector is easier to remove. (It's the brain with the vacuum line attached.) Check between pins 12 and 4 for the idle switch, and 12 and 17 for WOT.

(pinout thread)