polecat702

On the resent drive from Vegas to Anaheim, there was an excessive amount of hot air coming from the console gear indicator area. Is there some sort of insulation in that area that might be missing. I have an 87 S4 automatic. I do know from looking at the metal shift gate that its broken an will need to be replaced. thanks in advance, Joe

Bill51sdr

I think there is some seal under there, but the more likely problem is collapsed motor mounts. This is an unfortunate symptom of that.

Imo000

Are your motor mounts in good shape? As they slowly collapse, the gap between the insulation for the shifter mechanism and the floor of the car increases and the heat from the catalytic, exhaust and engine will start to leak in.

Landseer

Is the heat shield in-place? Oxygen sensor centered in the heat shield access hole? Foam seal in place? up around TT?

polecat702

My motor mounts look like thier flat, collapsed. Is this something that I should farm out, or a job that I can do myself? I've got all the tools that I think I would need, and a 2 post lift. I've only owned this car sence last March, so I'am still a novice on working on it. It's like night and day compaired to my Pantera. Thanks Joe

Bill51sdr

It's a diy but a lot of work. I did mine without the benefit of a lift. There are two schools of thought here: remove the front axle assy. and replace them or do as another lister or two have done and try to R&R them with the axle in place. Removing the crossmember allows you to do your pan gasket wyait.

polecat702

I just read Tony's post and picture thread on changing the mounts. Bill you're right it is a lot of work. I think with the lift and dropping the steering rack I should be able to do this myself. Another question; Should I use the stock replacement motor mounts, or does one of our vendors make a better replacement? Thanks again everyone, Joe

86'928S MeteorGrey

There is a 2 piece foam insulator that mounts on top of the torque tube that isolates heat to the tunnel. (I only know this because I just replaced mine). If the motor mounts don't fix it completely the heat issue, it could be the foam pieces. I have poor motor mounts, but there is no heat coming through my tunnel yet. I know that others have used the foam pieces, plus added "insulation in a can" to help seal the shifter opening.

86'928S MeteorGrey

I've got a set of Carl's solid rubber mounts that are going in after it cools off a bit here (AKA NEVER) in SoCal...

polecat702

Thanks Mike, I think the prudent approach would be to replace the mounts and the 2 foam pieces on top of the tunnel. Another point, all my other cars use solid mounts. I can't think of a reason that would warrent the use of liquid filled mounts again. If there is a valid reason to use the stock mounts over the mounts that Carl sells, I would like to hear it. This is a repair that I don't want to have to repeat. Thanks,Joe

Mrmerlin

I would suggest that you replace the motor mounts and the pan gasket at the same time.
When you remove the old MMs.

Make sure to fit then trim off the lower studs so on the new mounts so they are just flush with the nuts , This will prevent the studs from contacting the steering rack when its installed.
Also get 4 fender washers about 2 in. diameter.
Fit 2 of them together (that should add about 3mm to each mount) , put 2 on the tops of each mount, this should return the engine to correct height.
Also a note if you keep the windows closed as well as the sunroof while your driving much less heat will enter the cabin from the shifter

polecat702

Thanks Stan, great advice. My pan gasket isn't leaking or weeping, but I will change the gasket just the same. I'am going to replace the mounts with Carl's replacements, can't beat the price, and I think they will be much more relialable. Once again I want to thank everyone for helping me out, Joe

mj1pate

FYI: It seems that the conventional wisdom about flattened motor mounts allowing more heat into the tunnel (and hence the interior) is correct. I could usually feel the heat draft around the shifter prior to changing the motor mounts. Since performing the work, I can sense very little heat in the same area. The air drafting through the console vents is picking up much less heat from the console environment as well.

Leon Speed

The heat seems to be worse from there when the sun roof is open. I know it doesn't help but just an interesting fact

OTR18WHEELER

Bumping an early thread on the topic.
Most here seem to agree or suspect collapsed MM's or degraded foam insulation in the tunnel as for the allowance of hot air coming from the shifter area.
I would like to pass along my experience and my fix.
Last year while I had the TT out (I also removed the upper bell housing)
I noticed the foil insulation on the firewall had peeled away just above the tunnel showing a small open gap.
I used foil HVAC duct tape to cover the gap. This drastically reduced the heat flow from the shifter.
The foam padding over the TT was not degraded, and I have original MM's .
I believe this to be the main cause of heat flow into the cabin through the shifter area.