fraggle

Shop and I are aware of the "no lift" issue. I made it painfully clear and even stuck a note to the inside of the windshield.

hacker-pschorr

The WSM does show how to perform an alignment if and when the car is lifted. My shop even has the tool shown in the manual for this process.

Also from the WSM:
Volume IV
Page 40-5
Bolt #19

"Screw in until only 2 threads are visible. Do not tighten to 120Nm (88 fltb) until assembly is completed and springs have settled"

Discussed here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...lt-torque.html

It's a bit tricky to fit a torque wrench between the #19 bolt and the ground.
My game plan is to lift the car for the alignment, use the factory tool to squat down the suspension.....then tighten the lower control arm bolts. I should add I'm swapping control arms.....

How much of this "squatting" problem is due to lower control arms that were tightened the incorrect way and excessive force is on those bushings?

Just thinking out loud.

WallyP

Yes, there is a factory procedure to align the front after lifting - but few shops have the tool and the knowledge to use it. It is just a lot safer and a lot easier to align without lifting. Of course, some shops are arrogant enough to not listen to the owner...

The need to put the weight on the wheels before tightening the lower arms is to prevent shearing the bushings. If you tighten them with the arms at full down, you can damage the bushings the first time that you hit a bump hard enough to take the arms to full up.

mark kibort

the shop way has a very low chance of working and will pretty much gurantee a bad alignment. (lots of factors besides ride height) why take a chance just do it the way we have discovered to work without concern?

hacker-pschorr

I'm spoiled by having a shop with every Porsche WSM on hand and the owner has owned quite a few 928's. Which means he stocks a wide selection of common 928 necessities. It's also 2 miles from my house.

Cosmo Kramer

Getting the inner tie rod free from the rack laying on your back is quite the feat. I tried the squeeze method but I couldn't get it off. I ended up wedging a wrench on the rack side and zip tying it to the underside of the car so it didn't fall off. This gave me 2 hands to reef on the tie rod side and get it loosened.

76FJ55

I don't know how easy it would be to source replacements lock nuts for the tierod ends, but if the tierod engs are in good shape, and don't need to be replaced, you could probably use a cutoff wheel to cut most of the way through the lock nuts and then split them to remove them. once the locknuts are removed the tierod should turn easily, so you should be able to thread then off the tierod ends and thread on new locknuts.

fraggle

Not a bad idea there. I may need to do something like that during removal.

mark kibort

I still dont understand how the shop wasnt able to break at least one of the tie rods lock nuts free. did they try heat? where they only using a open end wrench to hold the tie rod vs the locking nut to break it loose?
sounds fishy.