Deceptive engine knock
#1
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A few weeks ago my engine started to sound like a diesel truck. The noise seemed to be coming from the drivers cyl head. I could feel a vibration when I touched the cam cover and distributor cap. I removed the cam cover and dist cap to inspect. Everything looked good, so I towed it to my shop.
Put it on the lift and removed the belly pans. Fellow lister Eturbo924/Eric came along for the diagnosis. When I started the engine his mouth dropped. The noise was louder and I could feel knocking on bottom of oil pan. Was a very stressful moment at first.
The vibration when touching dist cap kept calling me back. I removed cap, rotor and upper timing cover. I was amazed at what I found. The cam bolt was loose, so I tightened it and noise was gone. What happened was the cam hub had cracked and broke in 2 pieces. This caused the bolt to be loose. The rotor screws were holding everything together at that point. I replaced both hubs and reset my cams.
I was lucky, it could have been much worse. Strongly suggest replacing cam hubs if your in there.
Put it on the lift and removed the belly pans. Fellow lister Eturbo924/Eric came along for the diagnosis. When I started the engine his mouth dropped. The noise was louder and I could feel knocking on bottom of oil pan. Was a very stressful moment at first.
The vibration when touching dist cap kept calling me back. I removed cap, rotor and upper timing cover. I was amazed at what I found. The cam bolt was loose, so I tightened it and noise was gone. What happened was the cam hub had cracked and broke in 2 pieces. This caused the bolt to be loose. The rotor screws were holding everything together at that point. I replaced both hubs and reset my cams.
I was lucky, it could have been much worse. Strongly suggest replacing cam hubs if your in there.
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Those are problematic at best.
You dodged a bullet on that one, it could have broken a cam, bent valves, done all sorts of things.
They were on back order when I built my engine.
You dodged a bullet on that one, it could have broken a cam, bent valves, done all sorts of things.
They were on back order when I built my engine.
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Paul, are the replacement hubs aluminum? Or steel?
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But, the originals are AL right? Or are they steel to start?
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They were steel also. Had they been aluminum it would have shredded filings everywhere. The new hubs are factory Porsche from the dealer. The package had a manufacturer date of 8/2009. I'm hoping the newer hubs have modern technology steel and are stronger than 80's steel.
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Zeus,
Put that on eBay and you will probably get $1000 as a piece of art.
Glad you ducked on that one.
Roger
Put that on eBay and you will probably get $1000 as a piece of art.
Glad you ducked on that one.
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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Am I missing something?
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IIRC this seems like a not-that-common failure mode. But, the question in my mind is why? With the big bolt properly tightened and with the rotor bolts even and not over-tightened to the point of snapping there shouldn't be a lot of force on that piece. Or IOW, the cam belt shouldn't be dragging the sprocket around via force on that piece and thus the keyway.
Am I missing something?
Am I missing something?
Harmonics maybe.