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My 1979 928 5 speed

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Old 10-17-2009, 07:50 PM
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kccampro
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Welcome.
Old 10-18-2009, 04:21 PM
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Lopez
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Order some new fuel hoses right now. On a '79 there are only a couple rubber lines but you should replace them right away. Then uncork the exhaust and you'll be surprised what a difference it makes over the stock setup.

You should also make sure your lower front ball joints have been replaced with steel ones. Look around the site - there are pictures of the aluminum (fat) and replacement steel (skinny) ball joint carriers that will make it obvious if they have been replaced or not. This was a recall item that you kind of have to do - the aluminum ones are prone to catastrophic failure under load (like mid-corner) and are considered a hazard.

'78 - '79 cars are cool - they are relatively simple compared to the later cars and are the lightest ones of the bunch from the factory.
Old 10-18-2009, 04:33 PM
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jleidel
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Originally Posted by Landseer
Go Vols
The only orange that really matters is BURNT ORANGE!!

Hook em' Horns!!!

You've definitely come to the right place for info on lots of various topics. Once you get all the fluids changed, you'll probably notice the typical set of leaks here and there. Any old car with old gaskets and seals tends to leak a bit when you put fresh juices in it. Welcome to the club!!!
Old 10-18-2009, 08:51 PM
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linderpat
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Originally Posted by Lopez
Order some new fuel hoses right now. On a '79 there are only a couple rubber lines but you should replace them right away. Then uncork the exhaust and you'll be surprised what a difference it makes over the stock setup.

You should also make sure your lower front ball joints have been replaced with steel ones. Look around the site - there are pictures of the aluminum (fat) and replacement steel (skinny) ball joint carriers that will make it obvious if they have been replaced or not. This was a recall item that you kind of have to do - the aluminum ones are prone to catastrophic failure under load (like mid-corner) and are considered a hazard.

'78 - '79 cars are cool - they are relatively simple compared to the later cars and are the lightest ones of the bunch from the factory.
+928. I just had my ball joints replaced. Another test is use a magnet - obviously a magnet won't stick to the aluminum ball joints. And you do indeed feel a difference with the cats removed. I have a magnaflo and cat delete. The car sounds awesome and goes fast.
Old 10-18-2009, 10:36 PM
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IrishLegend
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I'm still looking for my $1000 928.
Go Irish!

Last edited by IrishLegend; 10-19-2009 at 09:57 AM.
Old 10-19-2009, 02:38 AM
  #21  
ccrayl
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Thanks for the great tip on the balljoints, fuel lines and taking out the cats. A lot of the work has been done on this website and pictures have been taken so it does make it easy for me to follow. When i do my projects i will continue to contribut what i can. I will of course check to see if it has been before and if not then add to. From other post i know i need to check the timing belt and water pump.
Old 10-19-2009, 10:32 AM
  #22  
linderpat
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Don't forget to add these sites to your favorites - these tutorials are essential:
http://www.dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/;
http://members.rennlist.org/v1uhoh/index.htm;
http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...Main_Home.htm;
http://www.928s4vr.com/;
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/z...ain.html#hvac;
http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm;

There may be other resources out there, and the Work Shop Manuals are also a must, but these sites will get you thru pretty much anything you need to do.
Old 10-19-2009, 10:52 AM
  #23  
ccrayl
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Linderoat those are awesome tools, thank you. That kind of information is more value than the WSM cause it adds the i didn't think of that factor.

Last edited by ccrayl; 10-19-2009 at 02:43 PM.



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