Stephencs601

No, the car undercarriage is about 3 feet above ground, more than enough to work under.

Gretch

Mine stay on a Worth for the winter, though this winter they may just stay in the barn.

jcorenman

Tass, I think the top of the upper car is around 11' up in that picture but that's more than needed. A 10' ceiling would work comfortably, the absolute minimum would be around 9'-- see below...

Maybe, just... Our S4 is about 50.5" tall, stock ride-height. If I run the ramps up on this lift until the bottom of the ramp clears the car and lock it, the bottom of the ramp measures 54" from the floor and the top of the ramp is at 58-1/4". Add the car and it would be 108-3/4", and to engage the locks on this lift you need to raise it another 1-1/2" above the lock height, then down to engage the ladder-locks. So that means you would need 110-1/4" overall height-- that's 2-1/4" short.

But where these locks are adjusted you've got an extra 3-1/2" under the ramp (to the roof of the lower car) at the lowest position that clears the lower car.

The Bend-pak lifts have locks every 4", a separate "ladder" which is adjustable +/- an inch or so. So raise the ladder 1" and drop the ramp 4" (one notch), that puts the bottom of the ramp at 51" (just clears) and the top at 55-1/4", plus car is 105-3/4, add the 1-1/2" over-hoist for the locks means the top of the upper car would be at 107-1/4" max, again just clears. But there would be zero margin for anything.

Other lifts use different locking arrangements which might work out better or worse, and some may also have ramps which are thinner or thicker. So be sure to get detailed drawings and spec's before doing anything (and be sure the drawings match the lift!).

Marine Blue

Question for those with four post lifts.

Can you unload the suspension or are you forced to let the car sit on the ramps?

How easy is it to work on the car with wheels on? Is there enough room to reach everything on the undercarriage?

jcorenman

You need to jack it, the hot setup is a rolling bridge jack. Not cheap, but makes picking up one end of the car a trivial task. If I need both ends up then I jack the rear first, put blocks under the suspension mounts and then slide the jack to the front. There's no reason to lift it high so stability is not an issue.

Here's Bend-Pak's version: http://www.bendpak.com/bendpak-produ...cks/RJ-45.aspx

Access is fine, although not as good as a 2-post lift.

Marine Blue

Thank you Jim. Definitely something to consider if the lift will be used regularly for maintenance.

Tass 928

Thanks Jim.

The idea I'm exploring is to use a four post lift as an elevator...Once the car is lifted, roll it forward onto a 2nd level that I would build from structural steel. The room I want to use is 18' x 50' with one door on each of the 18' ends. Wacky idea but I want to create some very long terms storage spots (parked for years) yet still have the ground floor available for parking.

cold_beer839

You may have to stengthen or reinforce the lift at the top of the posts for that application as the weight shift when you drive off the raised lift onto the 2nd floor may be a problem.

sweet928

Direct lift just raised their prices a few hundred. Anyone have any opinions on Greg Smith Equipment lifts? Their Atlas Garage Pro 8,000 is going for $1,795.

Giovanni

I have been shopping for a 4 post lift for a long time. Bendpak was my first option until i heard some of their models are made in china. Then I was searching for certified 4 post lift which recently I found out that only some of the HD commercial models are certified, the home models are not. Meanless to say, I opted out for a used made in China 4 post lift that I got it off CL for $1200 and I could not be happier. Pics to follow....

http://boardreader.com/thread/Made_I..._jb54Xffc.html

Bill Ball

I bought the older version of this lift from Greg Smith in 2005. I've been very happy with it. The new one has an improved locking mechanism.

Giovanni

Here is mine: http://www.americanautomotiveequipme...0-p/ss7000.htm

Hope you guys don't mind ton of pics :-(

Bill Ball

Hey Gio - I assume you are aware of the weakest spot in the Corvette frame when it comes to rust. I've seen them split in half when the frame breaks at the kickup in front of the rear wheel. But yours doesn't look that bad....

Giovanni

Thanks Bill, I am lucky that mine does not have any rust cancer although it has some light corrosion on the frame. Its a 1968 that went into hibernation in 1987.

GeorgeM

Direct Lift Pro Park 8 Plus. Got it from Greg Smith Summer '09. It works well and I've had no issues. I have the bridge jack and it works well also... necessary for any wheel removal work. I've had no access issues with the car on its wheels. I've also used the bridge jack along with the jack tray with a shop jack to get all 4 corners on jackstands... worked great. Comes with casters, drip trays, jack tray, ramps and chocks. 110v.

I have 11' ceiling and can stack my 911 and 928 (see avatar). I can also park my '06 Ram quad cab under the lift with it raised all the way up. I have to fold one mirror to do this, but for the cars, there's plenty of width - no folding required.