Rob Edwards

We use Rennlist. If you have a specific issue, do a keyword search for it. If you don't find what you're looking for, ask for help. Someone has typically BTDT and can chime in.

You can buy the factory workshop manuals but at this point theres' very little from the WSM's that hasn't been translated and illustrated to be more user friendly than the WSM.

danglerb

Mostly Check.

BReyes

I have lots of books mostly for 911. Diving in looking for 928 chapters. Yes, the forum provides great value! On my 3.2 (Motronic), I have found that the microswitch has to be clean, and the cables lubricated(properly lubricating the cables especially helped).

dr bob

Bernard,

I depend a lot on the factory manuals, and as others have mentioned there's Rennlsit and the great support websites that some of our members maintain. In the intro piece at the top of the first page ("read this before your first post") there are links to several very good user sites.

There is also a compiled CD set that includes scanned and indexed copies of the WSM pages, plus almost off the tech service bulletins, individual system detail instructions, and many of the annual service updates that supplement the WSM itself. Includes a copy of the PET parts program with illustrations, but Porsche offers a PDF version of that now for free via their website. Roger (ROG100 here, www.928srus) carries the CD set, and I feel that it's more than worth the cost just for the supplements.

There was an early Chiltons that covered some of the 924, 944 and early 928, out of print for a long time. It's interssting to compare the details from the WSM with the somewhat generic procedures detailed in Chiltons; The Chilton's is a gloss-over of what's really needed if you plan to actually do any serious work on the car. Of course if you choose a car later than the first several years of production, Chiltons info is worth even less as the cars evolved.


Hope that answers your questions.

Mongo

Still having idle issues again. This car LITERALLY has a mind of its own. It tried to stall out again in traffic. I had to shift to neutral and blip the throttle to recover it. Still wouldn't idle right....400 RPM and less. I put it in drive and continued going. The next stop light it was idling around 600 RPM. Going to the next stoplight, idle was fine after that at 675-700. Somewhere around there.

Sticking ISV? It seems like every 7 days this car is giving me an attitude.

Mongo

I saw a post on the first page of this thread relating to oil blowby gunking up the ICV. I believe this may be a possibilty why this intermittently happens to my car. Would installing some sort of catch can or oil separator solve this issue?

dr bob

Andy--

It might help, but of course you are masking a symptom of another problem.

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Sometimes Stupid Stuff causes problems. That list includes a loose oil filler cap or a cracked oil filler. Loose or cracked/leaking oil vapor hoses. Leaking purge valve from the carbon cannister. ANY of these things could allow air past the MAF and cause poor mixture control at idle. And oil carryover into the ISV.

Mongo

Right about now I'm considering an LH swap with someone so I can see if it's the brains on this car or not that's causing this mess before I start tearing into everything, again...