Belly pan destroyed
#32
Owns the Streets
Needs Camber
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Needs Camber
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#33
About that under belly pan: Are there any alternatives to spending the shipping, $279. for the belly pan and a $40 screw kit? Do they sell a lower cost same quality OEM or after market part? Kindy e-mail me saxmandanny@yahoo.com
#36
Rennlist Member
it keeps the dirt out, thats about it.
If you want to see Steve's white NSX, its in a few of my videos.
Hi Steve! sorry about your belly pan! hey, it could have been worse. (like oil pan )
If you want to see Steve's white NSX, its in a few of my videos.
Hi Steve! sorry about your belly pan! hey, it could have been worse. (like oil pan )
#38
Rennlist Member
I've repaired several of the plastic belly pans with fiberglass, but they continue to deteriorate in new places. I now have an aluminum one and highly recommend the aluminum. Just transfer the the NASA ducts to the aluminum pan, four pop rivets and your done. My aluminum one is now seven years old and other than a few scratches it's still perfect.
#40
Chronic Tool Dropper
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I made an aluminum front brace for my pan that holds everything up where it's supposed to be, maybe 3/4" higher. The front spoiler and the leading edge of the pan seen to take a lot of abuse from parking lot bumpers and my driveway. The tabs on the front of the pan that go up to the frame rails were getting damaged, and the pan would droop there until I repaired them again. So instead I bought a piece of aluminum strap at H-D, and bent it to match the original form of he front of the pan supports. I added a few nutserts for the screws that hold the leading edge of the pan and the trailing edge of the spoiler. Works like a champ.
Metal is 1.5" wide aluminum. You can bend it easily in a benchtop vise with a plastic hammer so it matches the shape of the pan and those support things. It cuts easily with a hacksaw, cleans nicely with a file, drills quite easily. If you don't want to go the Nutsert route, just drill through, and use screws to engage the original little spring-steel tabs off the radiator support.
I'll take a couple pictures next time I have the pan off. When I built mine, I made a crude drawing for posteriority (those following behind me...), but it's out there in the pile of notes somewhere.
Metal is 1.5" wide aluminum. You can bend it easily in a benchtop vise with a plastic hammer so it matches the shape of the pan and those support things. It cuts easily with a hacksaw, cleans nicely with a file, drills quite easily. If you don't want to go the Nutsert route, just drill through, and use screws to engage the original little spring-steel tabs off the radiator support.
I'll take a couple pictures next time I have the pan off. When I built mine, I made a crude drawing for posteriority (those following behind me...), but it's out there in the pile of notes somewhere.
#41
Rennlist Member
It has already been mentioned about the proven lower temps. Dirt alone can be a problem, depending on where the car is driven. I had an '85, came from a sandy locale. The crank pinch roller had grit in it. Some say that roller is not really necessary, but nevertheless it cannot be good to have it seize. Look at any newer performance car undercarriage. They are smooth for a reason.
They may not be available, but I would be trying the Big Three suppliers and salvage yards before I paid for new, but I would have a pan.
They may not be available, but I would be trying the Big Three suppliers and salvage yards before I paid for new, but I would have a pan.
#42
Rennlist Member
there is NO viable reasonable streatch of an imaginary reason why a belly pan would make the engine run cooler. any by cooler, we saw this "Proven" example, for a car that showed cooler WATER temps, during his/her stint in traffic on the hyway. first of all, the thermostat dictates temp in the midrang of temps. second, the air flow naturally enters the radiator and flows under the car, because that pressure is lower than the frontal pressuer venting to a lower pressure area. sure, I will certainly buy lower Cd, as we all can agree that a smoother bottom,is as good as a smoother surface over the top of the car! I have air flowing under the car and blowing around the oil pan,with some slight mods to the front air dam. dont know if it helps, but it makes sense that it does. keeping all that heat in the engine compartment cant really help cooling. venting the hood makes a difference, but the biggest difference came from putting a larger hole in the front bumper.
It has already been mentioned about the proven lower temps. Dirt alone can be a problem, depending on where the car is driven. I had an '85, came from a sandy locale. The crank pinch roller had grit in it. Some say that roller is not really necessary, but nevertheless it cannot be good to have it seize. Look at any newer performance car undercarriage. They are smooth for a reason.
They may not be available, but I would be trying the Big Three suppliers and salvage yards before I paid for new, but I would have a pan.
They may not be available, but I would be trying the Big Three suppliers and salvage yards before I paid for new, but I would have a pan.
#43
Race Car
The only way I can see a 928 running hotter without a belly pan is when it is standing still and the hot air that just went through the radiator can flow under towards the front of the car and re-enter the radiator again and again. When the car is moving, the air will always be drawn towards the rear of the car.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#44
Rennlist Member
another good point.
The only way I can see a 928 running hotter without a belly pan is when it is standing still and the hot air that just went through the radiator can flow under towards the front of the car and re-enter the radiator again and again. When the car is moving, the air will always be drawn towards the rear of the car.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft