1987 S4 Squirter Block, LSD, Racing Suspension 123k miles FOR SALE!
#17
Nordschleife Master
If it hasnt been replaced then it is either bad, or will be soon. So best to replace regardless.
It is in the top of the bellhousing. right where it meets the engine. It has an allen key holding it down and it is a PITA to get out most times.
To remove it remove the MAF, fuel hoses (shoudl be replaced too if not new), there is also a bridge with a plastic roller held down with 2 bolts. Remove this too. Then you will have lots of room to get in there. Turn it back forth back forth while attempting to apply some upwards force. Do not apply much upwards force or you WILL break the sensor and then you must remove the flywheel to get it out and that is NOT fun.
The new sensor is around $60 from Roger. However if the car has spark this is not the problem. If there is spark then this is OK.
I have just replaced 2 of these on a 924S (yes the 944/924S engine uses 2 for the DME), and I have one of these to replace on an 87 that fell apart as I was doing the fuel lines.
The fuel lines should all be done while you are doing this.
Rogers kit last I spoke with him was around $120, BUT if you wish to save money you can ask him to forgo the front premade hose and just supply you with a little more hose and you can reuse the ends which connect to the rail and dampner.
Perhaps you could persued Bill Ball to come take a peak too?
It is in the top of the bellhousing. right where it meets the engine. It has an allen key holding it down and it is a PITA to get out most times.
To remove it remove the MAF, fuel hoses (shoudl be replaced too if not new), there is also a bridge with a plastic roller held down with 2 bolts. Remove this too. Then you will have lots of room to get in there. Turn it back forth back forth while attempting to apply some upwards force. Do not apply much upwards force or you WILL break the sensor and then you must remove the flywheel to get it out and that is NOT fun.
The new sensor is around $60 from Roger. However if the car has spark this is not the problem. If there is spark then this is OK.
I have just replaced 2 of these on a 924S (yes the 944/924S engine uses 2 for the DME), and I have one of these to replace on an 87 that fell apart as I was doing the fuel lines.
The fuel lines should all be done while you are doing this.
Rogers kit last I spoke with him was around $120, BUT if you wish to save money you can ask him to forgo the front premade hose and just supply you with a little more hose and you can reuse the ends which connect to the rail and dampner.
Perhaps you could persued Bill Ball to come take a peak too?
#18
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I don't have spark, but I also don't have power to a lot of the fuse panel. This could be causing the brain to not get power... I am really on the fence with this one.
#19
Nordschleife Master
Clean the contacts at the jump post in the engine bay #1, then jumper the EZK relay. Crank the car, if you have spark then its fine, if you dont then replace the reference sensor and try to start the car.
#21
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I'm going to go out there with a wire brush and contact cleaner and try to get some of the underhood connectors.
The starter motor does engage and turn the motor.
I would say it's turning normal speed?
The starter motor does engage and turn the motor.
I would say it's turning normal speed?
#23
Colin, your' farking up a good deal for someone......................sell it, the car sucks
#26
Rennlist Member
Next, I'd suggest spraying 3 seconds of starter fluid into the air intake. Does she start up post-starter fluid? If yes, you've got a fuel problem.
If no, then you've got a no-spark condition. Well worth paying $2 for a cheap can of starter fluid to do that easy test.
#27
Race Director
you got a bunch of options......
#1 assuming you have AAA (if not get it for minimal cost) and use the 100 miles for free to get it to Doc Brown in LA orange county.....chances are he can figure it out quickly for minimal cost.....sure the hourly rate is not cheap, but you are 100% guaranteed he will find whats wrong and fix it....
#2 have a diagnostic party....there are a listers in your area that know what they are doing & could help....
what helped me immensely when I was diagnosing a no start issue (that ended up being a fuel pump) was Rich Andrades Elecktronic repair diagnostic here:
http://www.electronikrepair.com/
His guide plus a multimeter to check resistance between points is all you need
#1 assuming you have AAA (if not get it for minimal cost) and use the 100 miles for free to get it to Doc Brown in LA orange county.....chances are he can figure it out quickly for minimal cost.....sure the hourly rate is not cheap, but you are 100% guaranteed he will find whats wrong and fix it....
#2 have a diagnostic party....there are a listers in your area that know what they are doing & could help....
what helped me immensely when I was diagnosing a no start issue (that ended up being a fuel pump) was Rich Andrades Elecktronic repair diagnostic here:
http://www.electronikrepair.com/
His guide plus a multimeter to check resistance between points is all you need
#29
Race Director
Thats weird......kinda like the fuel pump problem I had years ago.....once cold the resistance on the fuel pump would drop to normal levels (say 1-1.5 ohm) but after runnning for a few minutes it would spike to 20 ohms and not run.....I guess the brushes were worn out internally? A new pump fixed it right up and Sharky has ran perfect since then
#30
Rennlist Member
My vote is crank sensor.
There are enough 928 HomeExoticAutoMechanic's in that area that I'll bet a group could get it started in a day. Supply burgers and beer, it'd cost you less than $100 to have a crew that knows 100x more than most porche shops do about 928's.
Good luck.
There are enough 928 HomeExoticAutoMechanic's in that area that I'll bet a group could get it started in a day. Supply burgers and beer, it'd cost you less than $100 to have a crew that knows 100x more than most porche shops do about 928's.
Good luck.